Posted 14 February 2018 - 01:34 AM
I have just started pattern drafting using Metric Pattern Cutting for Men's Wear.
I understand all that I have read so far but I am not sure about how to deal with the yoke.
Do you add the seam allowance to the pattern piece after tracing it, that is at the bottom of the yoke where it is attached to the shirt body as you draft it.
The author says that seam allowances and ease are figured into all the blocks in the book, but just not sure about the yoke.
Posted 14 February 2018 - 01:49 AM
If one creates a pattern and then needs to cut through for the formation of a seam, such as for a yoke, then a seam allowance the same as the pattern is added to the cut edges. However, without seeing the system this is a generalisation. Hope that helps.
Edited by tombennett, 15 February 2018 - 04:41 AM.
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Posted 14 February 2018 - 02:30 PM
Can you take a picture of the draft instruction drawing?
Edited by Der Zuschneider, 14 February 2018 - 02:31 PM.
Posted 15 February 2018 - 04:07 AM
Seam allowance is included on all seams of this shirt drafting system. Do not add any more seam allowance after cutting it apart. If you do add additional seam allowance you will at the very least throw off the balance of the draft.
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Posted 15 February 2018 - 05:08 PM
There is something called inlays. These are not part of the pattern. After the cloth is chalked they are added. Cut around the pattern and out around the inlays where added. Thread mark the lines, through both layers) so you know where the edge of the pattern is and the beginning of the inlays. The purpose of the inlays is that if the pattern does not fit right and a seam needs to be further out you have cloth out there to move it onto. After the fitting you change the pattern according to the adjustments. That is how some tailors were taught. Other methods are drawing new patterns and cutting new cloth, which takes a lot of time and is expensive. Since a beginner doesn't know anything he/she may find that extra patterns and cuttings are needed. With inlays there should be less. Because of inlays the Cut pieces can each individually be moved up, down, left and right to find the best fit for each. Then the seams are figured where one wants to put them.
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