40 replies to this topic

[Martin Stall]

Looks more like a badly worked canvass.

[Sator]

Looks more like a badly worked canvass.

And possibly exacerbated by a dropped shoulder on that side, though it is hard to tell because the subject isn't standing straight in any of the shots. If properly accounted for the neckpoint of the dropped side becomes more crooked and can help to get rid of the drape drags at the front of armscye.

[Sator]

For starters, sleeves would have looked better with a false forearm (the sleeve inseam is too far forward) facings, although cut on the straight have not been shaped with the iron to run parallel with lapel edge. Trousers too long, affecting hang.

All excellent points!

[Kerry]

Am I being too critical but is there some odd fullness or drape on the upper part of the sleeves around scye depth? It is especially noticeable on his right sleeve, I know he isn't standing straight but it appears in every photo.

[Sator]

If those samples all come from "master" tailors I'm sure there must be some Uber-Masters out there who don't have the time to attend those conventions for a simple reason: They are too busy making real clothes!

It wasn't always like that though. Click to see how they did it in the old days (and weep ).

[Martin Stall]

Hm. Not sure. I keep seeing a disagreement between the canvass (if it has one, of course) and the shell cloth.

[Sator]

I tried enlarging this image:



Again in every photo you see that angular drag from armscye point to the mid shoulder.

You can also see how excessively short the collar is. The points of the lapels almost protrude above the shoulder line, especially when they are as upwardly pointed as they are.

[Schneidergott]

Martin is right, looks like a canvas issue. The sleeve isn't a gem either.

The whole convention and the samples shown mostly lack some decent styling and fit, which is surprising since those are all "master" tailors.

This sample is "interesting":









There is a reason why men don't carry handbags...

[Sator]

^ He needs a Trachtenjoppe and Lederhosen for the Brüno look.

Addit: also annoying is the fact that the gorge is so high and the lapels so wide it hides the yoke. What's the point of having a yoke if you can't see it???

[Sator]

The sleeve isn't a gem either.

It's a bit shapeless isn't? It gives new meaning to the term "manica camicia"!

[Martin Stall]

Martin is right, looks like a canvas issue. The sleeve isn't a gem either.

The whole convention and the samples shown mostly lack some decent styling and fit, which is surprising since those are all "master" tailors.

This sample is "interesting":

It is????

[Schneidergott]

It is????

It "is"! If one wants to have fun in the Blue Oyster bar without the regular biker outfit. I guess...
At least it stands out of the crowd, although I think another model/ dressman would have done much better.

The lapel is at the same height like the yoke, which is technically extending the gorge line (just trying to find a sense in it)!

The sleeves of Manfred Seidel (the German tailor with the dyed curly hair) are pretty messy, which is a surprise since he uses a Rundschau pattern.
I can only imagine that his armholes have an odd shape at the front which does not match the shape of the sleeve.
On a side note: His role model was Rudolph Mooshammer:



That dog is the famous "Daisy"!

[jukes]

Is making and fitting really bad sleeves part of the criteria to becoming a master tailor . Now the original is enlarged there does seem to be a canvas / facing issue.

[Martin Stall]

Double pocketsquare wtf?

[Schneidergott]

Double pocketsquare wtf?

Breaking the rules Mooshammer style!

Is making and fitting really bad sleeves part of the criteria to becoming a master tailor .

I'd say "No"! But obviously it didn't prevent him from passing the "master" exam!
Actually, a while bad I had been told that Herr Seidel was always complaining at German conventions about other tailors always walking away with the medals.
After a few years they gave him one, too, and he was quiet ever since.

[SewingDominique]

I have to say, this gament at the bozen pic is a waste of fabric. it's not aesthetic.

[greger]

Fashions are one thing. Wild, zany, whatever (sometimes you just have to be there or part of a group to understand it). But are there really any tailors among this group? Fashion is sometimes deliberate ill fit or some other zany idea, but are any of these ill fits on purpose? And what tailor should be doing as poorly as manufactured off the rack fit? While I believe tailors should stay up with fashions, to a certain amount, but they should be the best at these when called upon to do them, and certainly not lowly equal to rtw.

So much of this looks like it was thrown together without much thought and not much in fittings, either. Some of it looks like they are "grabbing at straws" for fashion, which means they don't really understand it.

[jukes]

It,s a real shame to see how far standards have fallen, when this work is being associated with master tailors. As with everything else today its all marketing and hype, where a lot of money is paid for very little in return.
We need to take a step back in time when apprenticeships took a minimum of 5 years because all aspects of the trade were covered. Todays tradesmen have been fast tracked through the learning process and it shows in their work, which is why instead of sales we have hype, to brainwash todays customers into thinking they are actually getting something of worth, when in reality most of it is crap.