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Trimmings for bespoke shirt-making


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#1 ladhrann

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Posted 14 January 2012 - 01:45 PM

Hello all,

Can anyone point me in the direction of a supplier for inter-linings for bespoke shirt-making? I need to source them for a tailor who's willing to make for me. Unfortunately he speaks very little English and it would be a one-off project for me so I need to source all the materials.

So far Kenton Trimmings, Acorn Fabrics and no other merchant where I'm based (Ireland) stocks anything suitable for collar and cuff lining.

#2 kinloch

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Posted 14 January 2012 - 09:00 PM

I found a decent collar interlining in John Lewis Department store in London (UK) at Ģ6 per Metre

#3 ladhrann

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Posted 14 January 2012 - 11:09 PM

Hello kinloch, many thanks for that. Was it a sew-in interlining? You wouldn't know what section or heading it was under at all would you? Or what John Lewis called it? Sorry for all the questions, John Lewis don't have any branches in Ireland but will deliver through the website and I've had a look there and can't seem to find it, it may not be online.

#4 hymo

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Posted 15 January 2012 - 02:39 AM

You can buy collar and cuff interlining from theliningcompany.

#5 amateursarto

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Posted 15 January 2012 - 05:39 AM

ladhrann,

you can also buy from B. Black and Sons in LA . their stuff is pretty good, though not as good as stuff from American Sember or Steinlauf Stoller, both in NYC. if you can get it from either of them, go with that. If not, B. Black is good. here's a link:


http://www.bblackand...c-68_80_93.html
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#6 amateursarto

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Posted 15 January 2012 - 05:52 AM

Though I know everyone is not into fusible, (I use it when requested or when I want an extra smooth, firm finish), I bought some fusible cotton interlining/interfacing off of ebay a few weeks ago. it's medium weight, with a dense, smooth weave and fuses beautifully. when applied (if wanted/needed) as two layers on a cuff or collar, it gives a nice smooth, firm finish without being bulky or unwieldy. i paid only $5 (usd) for a 5 yd roll that's 60" wide. this will last me quite some time and i will use this in tandem with my sew in collar lining from american sember. so, i say, check out ebay, you may be surprised with what you find. Edit: This is what i bought, though the price has gone up some:

http://www.ebay.com/...0#ht_500wt_1202


Edited by amateursarto, 15 January 2012 - 06:08 AM.

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#7 greger

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Posted 15 January 2012 - 11:35 AM

Though I know everyone is not into fusible, (I use it when requested or when I want an extra smooth, firm finish), I bought some fusible cotton interlining/interfacing off of ebay a few weeks ago. it's medium weight, with a dense, smooth weave and fuses beautifully. when applied (if wanted/needed) as two layers on a cuff or collar, it gives a nice smooth, firm finish without being bulky or unwieldy. i paid only $5 (usd) for a 5 yd roll that's 60" wide. this will last me quite some time and i will use this in tandem with my sew in collar lining from american sember. so, i say, check out ebay, you may be surprised with what you find. Edit: This is what i bought, though the price has gone up some:

http://www.ebay.com/...0#ht_500wt_1202


Do you fuse to the top layer or under layer? Or, either one?

To fuse or not to fuse, with shirts, depends on a number of things. At least, over all, I don't care if it is done. Even with a coat it depends on what the customer is going to do; If he is going to promptly trash the coat with some activity then why put in a fabulously hand crafted foundation? If the customer wants a coat to last as long as ever then a well made foundation is important. The old tailors had the highest standards for the highest class of garments. Cheaper garments have less standards to fit the cost of the garments. The manufactures eventually took over the problems of cheaper garments. There are still to many brainwashed hippies, but their children and grandchildren are discovering the higher class clothes- that the world of tailoring gives.
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#8 amateursarto

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Posted 15 January 2012 - 04:43 PM

greger,
i fuse to the top collar, but always making sure to use a fusible that doesn't dominate or overpower the top cloth. if i use a double layer, i trim the second layer so that its a bit smaller (all around) than the layer that's fused to the top collar. i also never allow my fusing to extend into the seam allowances. i like the smooth firmness that fusing gives, and i don't mind if in a few years, i need to replace the collar or cuffs. usually this is because of wearing it a lot and the fusing begins to bubble. but even with a nonfused collar, if worn enough the collar and cuffs will need replacing eventually. there is a difference, i know, with a garment that isn't washed, but is dry cleaned infrequently.
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#9 ladhrann

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Posted 17 January 2012 - 07:43 PM

Though I know everyone is not into fusible, (I use it when requested or when I want an extra smooth, firm finish), I bought some fusible cotton interlining/interfacing off of ebay a few weeks ago. it's medium weight, with a dense, smooth weave and fuses beautifully. when applied (if wanted/needed) as two layers on a cuff or collar, it gives a nice smooth, firm finish without being bulky or unwieldy. i paid only $5 (usd) for a 5 yd roll that's 60" wide. this will last me quite some time and i will use this in tandem with my sew in collar lining from american sember. so, i say, check out ebay, you may be surprised with what you find. Edit: This is what i bought, though the price has gone up some:

http://www.ebay.com/...0#ht_500wt_1202



Many thanks for you replies to this post. I am slowly gathering pieces of cloth, inter-lining samples etc. to bring to a tailoring company here who say they can make shirts for me. They want to get into made-to-measure and will do CMT but they don't seem to have access to high quality trimmings. For instance they know of no supllier of M.O.P. buttons. I'm actually considering getting M.O.P. buttons from an Italian factory and selling what I don't need on ebay, let me know if anyone here is interested in them.

Edited by ladhrann, 17 January 2012 - 07:45 PM.


#10 amateursarto

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Posted 18 January 2012 - 12:47 AM

Many thanks for you replies to this post. I am slowly gathering pieces of cloth, inter-lining samples etc. to bring to a tailoring company here who say they can make shirts for me. They want to get into made-to-measure and will do CMT but they don't seem to have access to high quality trimmings. For instance they know of no supllier of M.O.P. buttons. I'm actually considering getting M.O.P. buttons from an Italian factory and selling what I don't need on ebay, let me know if anyone here is interested in them.



i'd be interested. thank you, ladhrann.




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#11 amateursarto

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Posted 18 January 2012 - 12:52 AM

Hwa Seng Textiles sells beautiful MOP buttons.




http://www.hst.com.s...zer_Button.html
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#12 tailleuse

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Posted 18 January 2012 - 03:37 AM

Hwa Seng Textiles sells beautiful MOP buttons.




http://www.hst.com.s...zer_Button.html


That site offers a six-hole button. Is that kind of button unusual?

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#13 ladhrann

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Posted 18 January 2012 - 09:11 PM

Hwa Seng Textiles sells beautiful MOP buttons.
http://www.hst.com.s...zer_Button.html



True for you amateursarto, the thing is I'd keep what I need for myself and then flog the others at cost + postage. I've found a factory with a 500pc order minimum for 16L and 18L.

That site offers a six-hole button. Is that kind of button unusual?


Never seen one like that before, they have 2 and 3-hole as well but I think they look a bit fussy. I much prefer the 4-hole buttons.

#14 ladhrann

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Posted 27 January 2012 - 07:57 AM

i'd be interested. thank you, ladhrann.


I've gone for a quantity of 4-hole 18L 4mm buttons and 4-hole 14L 3.5mm, in Australian mother of pearl from an Italian factory. Just in case anyones interested in them, PM me with expressions of interest. I'll be going to the US in March so I'd post them internally on arrival to members there.

#15 Nishijin

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Posted 27 January 2012 - 11:01 AM

For high quality mother of pearl shirt buttons, I recommend Mercier :
http://www.boutons-mercier.com/

They provide buttons to at least some bespoke shirtmakers in Paris, and maybe everyone.


I've never done business with them myself, though, but if you need help in the relationship, I'd be glad to give them a call.

They may sell only to trade accounts. If some dedicated amateurs here group to make minimum quantity, I'm willing to be a middle man and open a trade account with them. Or ask my shirtmaker if he can make the order.
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#16 tailleuse

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Posted 28 January 2012 - 12:16 AM

I think six-hole buttons look kind of weird, myself. Was just wondering if this was a common variation of which I was unaware.

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#17 ladhrann

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Posted 30 January 2012 - 10:28 AM

I think six-hole buttons look kind of weird, myself. Was just wondering if this was a common variation of which I was unaware.


It seems to be, the button companies will of course make whatever you want, certain brands do: laser printed name/logo, square buttons (quadro), flat buttons (tronchetto), buttons with three holes, six or two. And again the same in plastic or whatever other material. I went for the 'coup' the round button with classic concave back and convex front.

#18 napoli

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Posted 05 March 2012 - 01:25 AM

I donīt know if this thread is too old but as I am reading the full forum...

But I would recommend him Gygli interlining, both fused or not, I have tried several high end brands and liked that one.




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