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Please critique and suggest alterations for my new suit


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#1 catherineM

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Posted 07 August 2013 - 04:14 AM

Hi, I have been looking for a bespoke tailor for women for a long time now. It's difficult to find one within my price range in the US, so I found a tailor that was willing to do long distance tailoring. I received the suits for my first fitting last night.

 

I commissioned two suits to be made. One with one button, and the other with two buttons. For some reason, the two button suit fits much better than the one button one, so I am showing photos below of the two button suit.

 

2myqas7.jpg

 

1zd7ot2.jpg

 

w0icqw.jpg

 

2uijd6b.jpg

 

j9q2w9.jpg

 

It is about 4.5 inches (11cm) too big on the waist, and I am trying to have it altered down a bit. I cinched in the waist in the back to get an idea of how it would look like slimmer: 

 

23wwp7b.jpg

 

 

The armpit holes felt a little too low/big, and I was planning to request it to be altered higher.

 

I prefer a more fitted suit, but not to the point of being tight/unprofessional. Could you please suggest any other alterations I should make?

 

I know it's difficult to tell from the photos I took, but I would also appreciate feedback on the quality of the workmanship. The suit is fully canvased and hand made, made from Super 120s. I would be curious to know what you think the appropriate price should be.

 

I am clueless about tailoring, and don't have much knowledge, other than having had a few bespoke coats and jackets made in London a few years ago, so please pardon any ignorance.

 

Thank you so much for your help!

 


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#2 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 07 August 2013 - 01:15 PM

LoL, you had a few bespokes in London... now you got the crap for cheap ass money. Throw everything away!


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#3 Terri

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Posted 07 August 2013 - 09:08 PM

DZ so unhelpful.

On first glance, it looks to me like the armholes are too low, and the other thing I see is that you need more darting to control the bowing of the lapel. You can see the neck edge standing away from your body, even When your hands are at your sides.
Your hair covers any issues going on with the back.
It does look like you could have further waist reduction, but I wouldn't reduce it as much as you think. .
Is there a shoulder dart? Or a dart somewhere under the lapel? It doesn't look like it. It is difficult to get a closer fit with just the vertical dart in front. That may explain the large and low armhole.
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#4 tailleuse

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Posted 08 August 2013 - 12:40 AM

 

 

I commissioned two suits to be made.

 

 

 

 

 Just curious, did you send measurements to the tailor?  Did you take them yourself or have someone take them for you?  Was there an option of sending in well-fitting clothes you own that could be used as a reference?  


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#5 catherineM

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Posted 08 August 2013 - 04:04 AM

DZ so unhelpful.

On first glance, it looks to me like the armholes are too low, and the other thing I see is that you need more darting to control the bowing of the lapel. You can see the neck edge standing away from your body, even When your hands are at your sides.
Your hair covers any issues going on with the back.
It does look like you could have further waist reduction, but I wouldn't reduce it as much as you think. .
Is there a shoulder dart? Or a dart somewhere under the lapel? It doesn't look like it. It is difficult to get a closer fit with just the vertical dart in front. That may explain the large and low armhole.

 

Thank you so much for your helpful suggestions, Terri. I really appreciate it! I will inform my tailor on the armhole, and lapel issues.

 

I am not sure if there is a shoulder dart. Is there a way to look for it? I will also ask my tailor about it.

 

Sorry about my hair. I should have put it up, but forgot...



#6 catherineM

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Posted 08 August 2013 - 04:09 AM

 

 Just curious, did you send measurements to the tailor?  Did you take them yourself or have someone take them for you?  Was there an option of sending in well-fitting clothes you own that could be used as a reference?  

 

Hi taileuse,

 

Yes, I sent the measurements in to the tailor. I had them from the London tailor who made jackets for me before. We did not discuss whether I could send in well-fitting clothes as a reference from the outset, but they did ask if I could send in a jacket that fits me when we were discussing the alterations, but mentioned it is completely optional. Would you suggest I do that?

 

I am actually really reluctant to send the jackets in, because I don't have that many jackets, and need to use the one I have.


Edited by catherineM, 08 August 2013 - 04:58 AM.


#7 catherineM

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Posted 08 August 2013 - 05:08 AM

LoL, you had a few bespokes in London... now you got the crap for cheap ass money. Throw everything away!

 

Well, the bespokes coats and jackets were made as a personal gift for me, and they are made from heavier material and in colors that cannot be worn as a suit.

 

I do not have the resources to have a more expensive suit made, and the options for women in New York are mostly rather expensive. Not a lot of clothes fit me off the rack, so I could either get a suit that totally does not fit, or do long-distance tailoring. This seems like the better option. Please let me know if you have any other suggestions for where I can get a well-fitting suit made.

 

I appreciate your expertise and input, but could you please elaborate on why this suit is "cheap"? For example, which parts needs to be improved?



#8 MANSIE WAUCH

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Posted 08 August 2013 - 05:45 AM

Do not take any notice of negative comments. 

 

Tailleuse is giving you constructive advice and being as helpful as she can. (I notice she is based in New York and you mention you yourself may be from New York, why not get in touch she may be the tailor you are looking for!)

 

One other small comment, it would have made a big difference to your photos if you had pressed the suit, it looks as if you unpacked the outfit and put it straight on. A nice press would have made a world of difference, especially the creases down the front of the sleeves. ( looking at your slim figure also, I don't see how you cannot get nice clothes off the peg!)

 

All comments meant to be

 

good luck in your future quest.



#9 catherineM

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Posted 08 August 2013 - 06:10 AM

Do not take any notice of negative comments. 

 

Tailleuse is giving you constructive advice and being as helpful as she can. (I notice she is based in New York and you mention you yourself may be from New York, why not get in touch she may be the tailor you are looking for!)

 

One other small comment, it would have made a big difference to your photos if you had pressed the suit, it looks as if you unpacked the outfit and put it straight on. A nice press would have made a world of difference, especially the creases down the front of the sleeves. ( looking at your slim figure also, I don't see how you cannot get nice clothes off the peg!)

 

All comments meant to be

 

good luck in your future quest.

 

Hi Journeyman,

 

Thank you for your feedback. Taileuse and all of you have been very helpful, and I really appreciate it! I did not know she was based in New York, but I definitely should contact her. :)

 

I agree with you: I definitely should have pressed the suit/learned how to do that. You are very perceptive--I did take photos as soon as taking it out of the box. I guess I was overly eager to try on the new suit, haha. I will make sure to press the suit in the future.

 

Regarding finding clothes that fit: I have been told that I have a difficult body to fit. I am relatively petite at 5'5, but I have a long torso, and very broad shoulders for a woman (to the extent that people thought I was wearing shoulder pads when I really wasn't). I have a relatively small waist, compared to the rest of my proportions, and American sizing is a bit vanity sized right now (sometimes, even 00 is too big). I kind of envy you, living in England, because I think the fashion is more classic, and sized more accurately. Plus, there seems to be many more skilled tailors in Europe. :)



#10 hutch48

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Posted 08 August 2013 - 09:34 AM

Hi Catherine,

 

The general architecture of the suit looks good and the design appears to properly compliment the feminine form. I agree that it needs to be pressed as that may resolve a couple of minor visual problems at the front and back of the waist line. The shoulder slope look OK but the sleeves appear to be a bit low as you have said. It may just be the lack of pressing but the waist line looks a little tight as it looks like the front buttons and being pulled a bit. From the back, the rear of the sleeves in the upper arm appear to bag slightly but this just may be from the lack of pressing.

 

Post us a photo once you have it pressed.

 

PS: I doubt the shoes behind you will match the suit. :)



#11 Terri

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Posted 08 August 2013 - 01:50 PM


Thank you so much for your helpful suggestions, Terri. I really appreciate it! I will inform my tailor on the armhole, and lapel issues.
 
I am not sure if there is a shoulder dart. Is there a way to look for it? I will also ask my tailor about it.
 
Sorry about my hair. I should have put it up, but forgot...


To get a closer fit on a woman's jacket, both over the bust and to keep the armhole small, there needs to be a bit more shaping, so sometimes there is a shoulder dart, which would be a vertical dart from the shoulder down toward the bust but stopping above the bust. Sometimes that dart in combination with the vertical dart below the bust is changed into a seam- the princess seam. It can go up to the shoulder or sometimes into the armhole instead. Those are the most usual stylistic placements for the jacket darts, but the darts can be manipulated in many ways. Sometimes there are two vertical darts in front below the bust, it all depends on how much suppression is required for the figure and the style of jacket.
I cannot see any dart other than the vertical one below the bust in the pictures, and I think it would be visible, so it likely isn't there.

#12 catherineM

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Posted 08 August 2013 - 02:56 PM

Hi Catherine,

 

The general architecture of the suit looks good and the design appears to properly compliment the feminine form. I agree that it needs to be pressed as that may resolve a couple of minor visual problems at the front and back of the waist line. The shoulder slope look OK but the sleeves appear to be a bit low as you have said. It may just be the lack of pressing but the waist line looks a little tight as it looks like the front buttons and being pulled a bit. From the back, the rear of the sleeves in the upper arm appear to bag slightly but this just may be from the lack of pressing.

 

Post us a photo once you have it pressed.

 

PS: I doubt the shoes behind you will match the suit. :)

 

Thank you for the helpful suggestions, hutch48. I will definitely ask the tailor to alter the arm hole if possible. Now that you mention it, I also noticed the issue with the waist line and the front buttons. That is particularly perplexing, because the jacket actually is a bit loose on me. Maybe it just needs a good pressing. I am embarrassed to say I haven't learned how to press a suit before, so I am trying to read guides online, and get up the courage to do it tomorrow. 

 

Lol about the shoes. I try to not wear heels unless I have to, but definitely wasn't going to pair flip flops with the suit. :) 



#13 catherineM

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Posted 08 August 2013 - 02:59 PM

To get a closer fit on a woman's jacket, both over the bust and to keep the armhole small, there needs to be a bit more shaping, so sometimes there is a shoulder dart, which would be a vertical dart from the shoulder down toward the bust but stopping above the bust. Sometimes that dart in combination with the vertical dart below the bust is changed into a seam- the princess seam. It can go up to the shoulder or sometimes into the armhole instead. Those are the most usual stylistic placements for the jacket darts, but the darts can be manipulated in many ways. Sometimes there are two vertical darts in front below the bust, it all depends on how much suppression is required for the figure and the style of jacket.
I cannot see any dart other than the vertical one below the bust in the pictures, and I think it would be visible, so it likely isn't there.

 

Ah, I see what you mean! Thank you for explaining it to me, Terri! You are right: there were no shoulder darts. I also noticed that the well fitting coats and jackets I had made in London seemed to have a lot more darts and seams than this suit. Maybe that's why they fit better? Would it be possible/easy to ask the tailor to add shoulder darts? 



#14 Terri

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Posted 08 August 2013 - 09:12 PM

The shoulder dart is part of the pattern making stage so it cannot be created now. Same as raising the armhole. There is likely not enough fabric left in the armhole, and the alternative is like a remake and unlikely to work (remove collar and sleeves, lift up from the shoulders, change gorge line, and lapel, recut sleeves for smaller armhole and possibly lengthen at hem, hope button placement is still alright)
:(

#15 catherineM

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Posted 09 August 2013 - 04:21 AM

The shoulder dart is part of the pattern making stage so it cannot be created now. Same as raising the armhole. There is likely not enough fabric left in the armhole, and the alternative is like a remake and unlikely to work (remove collar and sleeves, lift up from the shoulders, change gorge line, and lapel, recut sleeves for smaller armhole and possibly lengthen at hem, hope button placement is still alright)
:(

 

Oh, I didn't know that. Thank you for explaining that to me! That's too bad...However, I suspect the tailor was planning on making major alterations. We agreed on having 6 panels in the back, but as you can see from the pictures, there were only 4. He promised to go back and change that. I am clueless about tailoring, but I kind of assumed that would also involve taking out the entire back and reworking it? Or would it be easier than that?

 

Thanks again for all your help, Terri! :)



#16 jukes

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Posted 09 August 2013 - 04:48 AM

Catherine, was this made to a straight finish or did you have any fittings. It is very hard to get clothes made at a distance for valid reasons. As stated above, to put this right will require a remake. Unless you have been to the same tailor for years it is virtually impossible to get it right without at least two fittings (your figure does not look too complicated from your photo,s)

#17 cperry

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Posted 09 August 2013 - 10:16 AM

I admire how the tailors are able to give feedback on the fit of Catherine's new suit.  It speaks to (or is a great example of) the value of their profession/talent.



#18 jeffrey2117

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Posted 09 August 2013 - 11:24 PM

Hi, I have been looking for a bespoke tailor for women for a long time now. It's difficult to find one within my price range in the US, so I found a tailor that was willing to do long distance tailoring. I received the suits for my first fitting last night.

 

I commissioned two suits to be made. One with one button, and the other with two buttons. For some reason, the two button suit fits much better than the one button one, so I am showing photos below of the two button suit.

 

2myqas7.jpg

 

1zd7ot2.jpg

 

w0icqw.jpg

 

2uijd6b.jpg

 

j9q2w9.jpg

 

It is about 4.5 inches (11cm) too big on the waist, and I am trying to have it altered down a bit. I cinched in the waist in the back to get an idea of how it would look like slimmer: 

 

23wwp7b.jpg

 

 

The armpit holes felt a little too low/big, and I was planning to request it to be altered higher.

 

I prefer a more fitted suit, but not to the point of being tight/unprofessional. Could you please suggest any other alterations I should make?

 

I know it's difficult to tell from the photos I took, but I would also appreciate feedback on the quality of the workmanship. The suit is fully canvased and hand made, made from Super 120s. I would be curious to know what you think the appropriate price should be.

 

I am clueless about tailoring, and don't have much knowledge, other than having had a few bespoke coats and jackets made in London a few years ago, so please pardon any ignorance.

 

Thank you so much for your help!

 

 

Hello Catherine,

 

    I see a few valid issues that have already been addressed.  

 

I would suggest that you have the garment professionally dry cleaned and pressed first instead of attempting it yourself.  I think that would be a mistake on your part to do it yourself in this case.

 

Afterwards, try it on again, you will see a difference in the way it looks and presents itself while you are wearing it, then decide on if  pursuing major alterations is worth the effort.

 

Kind regards

 

Jeffrey2117


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