5 replies to this topic

[jukes]

 

 

[posaune]

Good one, Thanks Juke.
Now I know what crooked and straight cut means.In the endless discussion I was a bit lost

lg
posaune

[hutch48]

Excellent video. 

[greger]

Wouldn't say it is completely correct explanation, because the neck point to the chest distance is longer on a chest that juts out there than average and even shorter on "sunken" chest, so that distance is not to be the same. But interesting that he explained it the way he did. How to figure the longer or shorter distance becomes another matter. Maybe I'm combining two different fitting parts into one, which would make him right. But that means the second part needs to be added. He laid his explanation out very well.

There are many other reasons to use crooked and straighten.

[jukes]

Clearest explanation I have seen on the subject and explains the 4 balance points very well. Crookening and straightening are for the side to side adjustment of the neckpoint which will also open or close the fronts. Raising or dropping the neckpoint is the vertical balance which, as pointed out needs to be corrected when crookening or straightening, but is also commonly used on its own for various figures.

[greger]

Here is a little more about crooked and straighten.

1893-1898 by W. D.F. Vincent
Starts at page 59 and diagram 150
http://costumes.org/...8cuttersguide1a

Text
http://costumes.org/...uidepart159.jpg
http://costumes.org/...uidepart160.jpg
Diagram
http://costumes.org/...uidepart198.jpg