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#109 posaune

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Posted 03 August 2018 - 01:07 AM

(you have a nice backgrund on your pics. The door is real vertical. To get a nice horizontal line you can use it as guide.)

Draw a line from the left shoulder tip (horizontal with the back ground help) over to the right side and you will experience that you will not meet the right shoulder tip - the side is hanging.

Now a pic is just a pic and if can be that you are not standing flush to the wall. Maybe rotated a bit the right side to the front then you take this with a grain of salt.

But in this pic it is the case. And if I take the neck left and right side with the 2 | |  the center which should be right between them is not. The back center notch of the collar will not be at the right place. It could be that all has been distorted by this long long fitting process. I think let it be, we will do it with the next example and now proceed with the sleeves. Do just the left one this side looks trustworthy. And is a good base to get the right one right.

lg

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#110 benjaminh

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Posted 03 August 2018 - 09:46 AM

Draw a line from the left shoulder tip (horizontal with the back ground help) over to the right side and you will experience that you will not meet the right shoulder tip - the side is hanging.

 

Doesn't this just mean that my right shoulder is lower? Is that what you mean by hanging?

 

Should I alter the right side of the neckhole to match the left, or start work on the sleeves?

What do you think of my armscye shape/size (probably best seen on #96, white stitching=seam line)?

Is the sleeve draft that is included with this Rundschau draft a good one?



#111 posaune

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Posted 04 August 2018 - 03:42 AM

yes, that is it. Lower. We say hanging.

If you want a symmetric collar  and you have enough patience try it. But before you start - stabilize the back neckhole (the snips).

For men I take the draft. It is good because it has some "hebel" in it at back which makes moving better. That is my opinion. (And you do not have to deceide this and that).

you can take the left as seen in 96. (For me it is a bit high up at shoulder - but this would be a stylish discussion - not a fitting.

lg

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#112 benjaminh

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Posted 04 August 2018 - 11:24 AM

yes, that is it. Lower. We say hanging.

If you want a symmetric collar  and you have enough patience try it. But before you start - stabilize the back neckhole (the snips).

For men I take the draft. It is good because it has some "hebel" in it at back which makes moving better. That is my opinion. (And you do not have to deceide this and that).

you can take the left as seen in 96. (For me it is a bit high up at shoulder - but this would be a stylish discussion - not a fitting.

lg

posaune

 

I'm not really sure how your advising me to proceed? What should I do to the collar to fix that, before proceeding to the sleeve?



#113 posaune

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Posted 05 August 2018 - 02:17 AM

you have to make the neck hole stabil. Peterle even thought there was a fold, (That were little fabric parts when you clippd the neckhole). I meant to glue some interface under the neckhole, so the fabric will stay put. Then equalize the neckhole : cut it out new. How it looks now I do not think you can have success.

lg

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#114 benjaminh

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Posted Yesterday, 01:13 PM

Sorry about the long delay, I've been terribly busy recently. 

 

Here's what I've done: rather than glueing in interfacing into a muslin that was very "worn out," I decided to copy all my changes to my paper pattern, and cut a new pattern. Besides the unstable neckhole/shoulderhole, I also wanted to make another muslin with the altered paper pattern, to make sure my changes were accurate. 

 

I also took Posaune's collar draft, and sewed that onto this muslin. I've played around with the neckhole/collar a bit, and I've got it looking pretty good now. There aren't any folds on the back, and I can't see any places that seem to be under tension. Only issue I see with the collar, is that it is very slightly proud of the neck at the very back. What is the solution for this? My very uneducated guess would be to move the neckhole up at the back, but I can't move the neckhole up, or else I get folds on the yoke. 

 

Apologies for the poor quality photos, but I don't have access to my regular camera. Hopefully you can still see what's going on:

 

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#115 Schneiderfrei

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Posted Yesterday, 04:34 PM

Hi benjaminh,

 

When you do another draft and even a finished shirt, it is good to sew around the neckline.

 

Just a mm or so into the seam allowance to stabilise the shape.

 

I am going to let someone else comment on the shots ;p

 

G


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Found on a beach picked up and you held so close


#116 peterle

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Posted Yesterday, 06:39 PM

It´s hard to tell from the pics about the collars back. It may derive from the movement needed to take the pics.

 

Take care the SA of the neckhole is ironed upwards.

 

When the problem continues, pin a very small dart into the band collar about 1,5cm behind the shoulder seam, shortening the upper edge of the band collar.



#117 benjaminh

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Posted Today, 12:47 PM

It´s hard to tell from the pics about the collars back. It may derive from the movement needed to take the pics.

 

Take care the SA of the neckhole is ironed upwards.

 

When the problem continues, pin a very small dart into the band collar about 1,5cm behind the shoulder seam, shortening the upper edge of the band collar.

 

I remembered that I didn't notice this problem when originally trying it on, and only noticed it when looking at the photos, so I tested it again to see if it was just, as you say, the movement needed to take the pics. When standing perfectly naturally, it doesn't seem to be present, so I consider it to be fine. 

 

Your advice on the shortening of the upper edge of the collar band makes perfect sense, I'll keep it in mind if I find I need it later on for some reason.



#118 benjaminh

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Posted Today, 12:50 PM

Hi benjaminh,

 

When you do another draft and even a finished shirt, it is good to sew around the neckline.

 

Just a mm or so into the seam allowance to stabilise the shape.

 

I am going to let someone else comment on the shots ;p

 

G

 

I always do sew around the neckline, but how I've been doing it is just sewing directly on the seam line. When I add the collar, I just stitch right on top of the original row of stay stitching. Is it better to sew further in? I'm using very fine needles right now, but my concern is that on a very fine shirting fabric, the row of holes from the staystiching may be noticeable after the stitch has been removed.

 

 

At this point, I think that I can move onto sleeves, unless anyone has any alternate advice. I'll update you with further progress.



#119 posaune

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Posted Today, 06:47 PM

Move on!

Before you cut, walk the sleeve pattern around armhole or measure both seam lines and compare them. Not more than 2 (-3) cm ease in the cap.

lg

posaune



#120 peterle

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Posted Today, 09:30 PM

 

I always do sew around the neckline, but how I've been doing it is just sewing directly on the seam line. When I add the collar, I just stitch right on top of the original row of stay stitching. Is it better to sew further in? I'm using very fine needles right now, but my concern is that on a very fine shirting fabric, the row of holes from the staystiching may be noticeable after the stitch has been removed.

 

 

At this point, I think that I can move onto sleeves, unless anyone has any alternate advice. I'll update you with further progress.

 

You don´t have to care about visible needle holes usually. This is only a problem in leather and similar materials. In wovens the needle holes usually can be closed or disappear after washing. But you have to test the needle condition regularely. When the needle tip is bent, take a new one. Usually you don´t see wether it is bent, but you can feel it with your fingers. Bent needles can rip the fabric or tug the fibers. These damages usually can´t be removed. So don´t be stingy when it comes to needles.

 

When you sew the stay stitching on the seam line, it will be hard or impossible to remove the stay stitching after sewing the collar. So it makes sense to do the stay stitching a bit off.


Edited by peterle, Today, 09:33 PM.


#121 Dunc

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Posted Today, 09:38 PM

I always put my staystitching in the seam allowance, so I don't need to remove it. I do enough unpicking as it is!






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