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Trouser Making - Sequence?

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#19 Jacob



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Posted 28 September 2017 - 09:58 PM

Sorry to interrupt with what is probably a dumb question, but


When you say that you "have straight grain for the trouser legs and cross-grain for the linings," are you saying that:

a) the fashion fabric for the trouser legs is oriented such that the warp threads run lengthwise up and down the trouser legs ... and

b) that the linings are oriented 90° to that, with the weft threads running lengthwise up and down the trouser legs, and the selvage running horizontally around the knee area?


I'm a complete novice, but trying to follow along with the adult conversation. Thank you.

#20 Terri



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Posted 28 September 2017 - 10:49 PM

Yes, thats how I read it.
I normally would keep the lengthwise grain of the fabric and lengthwise grain of the lining matched.

Obviously some people turn the grain of the lining so the lengthwise /selvedge is horizontal.

DZ - i did not mean crossgrain to be the bias.

I have seen people try putting a lining or flat mounting on the bias and it is not good!

#21 tombennett



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Posted 29 September 2017 - 04:53 AM

No I wouldn't bias the linings, yes so the selvedge runs horizontally around the knee, well just below to stop it riding up onto the knee which is a little uncomfortable and defeats the object, and the face cloth struck on the usual grain line.

Edited by tombennett, 29 September 2017 - 04:54 AM.

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#22 Jacob



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Posted 29 September 2017 - 08:50 AM

Thank you, Terri and TomBennett.

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