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A jacket that could look better...


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#1 NuMor

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Posted 02 September 2010 - 05:10 AM

Hello fellow members of The Cutter and Tailor,

I bring you a few photos of a jacket made some time ago - based on another jacket I remember from my childhood. The cloth is a dark green wool and cashmere mixture with a weight of 580 g. per square metre and the patches on the sleeves and shoulders are of cotton fabric. I think the original was a much rougher cloth - some sort of tweed or flannel probably, as this was a hiking jacket - but I was also looking for the right colour and the cloth used was the one that came closest to what I remembered.

Anyway, fabric and colour considerations aside, I think there is something not entirely right with the lower part of this jacket, it should not open like it does, should it?

Also, thanks to you, I know now the armholes will definitely have to be made smaller, as the jacket lifts up when I raise my arm.

Would you please look at it with your most critical eye and let me know what else you think needs doing? Is it salvageable? Thank you.

NuMor


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#2 J. Maclochlainn

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Posted 02 September 2010 - 05:20 AM

Interesting, but nice :good:
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#3 Martin Stall

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Posted 02 September 2010 - 05:26 AM

Yup, nice one. But you can't get the armholes made smaller....
Sure, I believe your work rocks, but... have you considered, how are you going to sell that stuff?

http: under construction...

#4 NuMor

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Posted 02 September 2010 - 05:33 AM

Yup, nice one. But you can't get the armholes made smaller....


So, there is nothing that can be done about that, ok I suppose I will have to live with it... How about the other situation shown on the photos, the front should not open like that, should it?

#5 Martin Stall

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Posted 02 September 2010 - 05:40 AM

Not really. Looks like the cut didn't allow for a slight (less than corpulent) belly. Maybe also a make-up issue.
Sure, I believe your work rocks, but... have you considered, how are you going to sell that stuff?

http: under construction...

#6 Nishijin

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Posted 02 September 2010 - 05:44 AM

Nice. :thumbsup:

There is a slight problem with the bottom, indeed. I think the facing was not applied correctly, so it pushes the front open. May be something else (as a short lining), difficult to diagnose these things without the garment in hand. Should be easy to solve.

Left sleeve is strange, dunno what the problem is. Maybe problem is in the back, not in the sleeve.
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#7 NuMor

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Posted 02 September 2010 - 05:49 AM

Not really. Looks like the cut didn't allow for a slight (less than corpulent) belly. Maybe also a make-up issue.


:Big Grin: I can assure you sir, I have no belly whatsoever, slight or otherwise!

#8 Nishijin

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Posted 02 September 2010 - 05:54 AM

I vote for making problem, not belly.

BTW, your right shoulder is a tad lower than the left, this was not taken in consideration.
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#9 NuMor

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Posted 02 September 2010 - 06:05 AM

I vote for making problem, not belly.

BTW, your right shoulder is a tad lower than the left, this was not taken in consideration.


You are right there, I also noticed that on the photo. I am not aware of it been a posture thing, i.e. me walking around with a slight lean on my right shoulder, maybe I was just caught off balance when the camera shot :huh:

Thank you for your input with regard to the jacket bottom, I will most definitely mention it when I take the jacket to be fixed.

#10 J. Maclochlainn

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Posted 02 September 2010 - 06:13 AM

I could think this is an outdoor coat. As such needs to look and wear a bit horsey.

But if we are tearing it apart then lets have at it

To me the sleeves are pitched a bit too forward
As Nishi states the right shoulder is a bit low causing the crease on the right side at waist
The left side facing looks like it might have been put in long hence the flare

But you know, I'd keep it as a hill walking coat add some breeches and Voila a nice ensemble to explore Braganša
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#11 MANSIE WAUCH

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Posted 02 September 2010 - 06:27 AM

I think the jacket is small across the front chest. The balance is good, you can tell this by the fact that the fronts are hanging straight down. You do have a drop on the right side, you can see a slight crease under the arm and also on the back hip you can see more creases. (Nine out of ten people have a drop shoulder).
The sleeves are pitched too forward (your arms are forcing the sleeve back, hence the creases at the top of sleeves at back, (look at the photos your arms are pressing on the back of the sleeves).

These are observations and not criticism, over all, the coat looks OK. I think the fact that the cloth is very thick makes the front stick out at the bottom.

#12 MANSIE WAUCH

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Posted 02 September 2010 - 06:27 AM

I think the jacket is small across the front chest. The balance is good, you can tell this by the fact that the fronts are hanging straight down. You do have a drop on the right side, you can see a slight crease under the arm and also on the back hip you can see more creases. (Nine out of ten people have a drop shoulder).
The sleeves are pitched too forward (your arms are forcing the sleeve back, hence the creases at the top of sleeves at back, (look at the photos your arms are pressing on the back of the sleeves).

These are observations and not criticism, over all, the coat looks OK. I think the fact that the cloth is very thick makes the front stick out at the bottom.

#13 MANSIE WAUCH

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Posted 02 September 2010 - 06:31 AM

I see you got two replies for the price of one. I must have stuttered?

#14 J. Maclochlainn

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Posted 02 September 2010 - 06:43 AM

Hiya Mansie.. thought about you today as I ran across a book bearing your name

fact that the cloth is very thick makes the front stick out at the bottom


I have found that putting in the facing a bit long will have the effect produced
Silly Cognoscenti, Drape is for windows!

#15 Martin Stall

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Posted 02 September 2010 - 06:47 AM

I see you got two replies for the price of one. I must have stuttered?


Yeah, you do that sometimes :)
Sure, I believe your work rocks, but... have you considered, how are you going to sell that stuff?

http: under construction...

#16 Martin Stall

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Posted 02 September 2010 - 06:54 AM

:Big Grin: I can assure you sir, I have no belly whatsoever, slight or otherwise!


In that case, in view of the absence of both belly and slightness, I would assume first that it's possibly first cloth, and then make which could be the problem, in that order.
Sure, I believe your work rocks, but... have you considered, how are you going to sell that stuff?

http: under construction...

#17 MANSIE WAUCH

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Posted 02 September 2010 - 06:59 AM

Hiya Mansie.. thought about you today as I ran across a book bearing your name



I have found that putting in the facing a bit long will have the effect produced


Hello JM. You have discovered my secret!

#18 NuMor

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Posted 02 September 2010 - 02:08 PM

Thank you all for your comments! :good: I hope I have understood them well and can do an accurate translation when I take the jacket to be altered.




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