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Question about lapels - Pad Stitching (no advices)


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#19 Lo Zingaro

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Posted 22 January 2012 - 05:00 AM

That is what I expected. You got a good deal for your little money. In Germany the prices start at 2500Euro - 4000Euro.


That's a high price!!
My father's tailor, Mr. Celentano, in Rome, less! Around 2000
I was talking to him at the phone few minutes ago, maybe I'll try his tailor. He says he's very skilled.

#20 greger

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Posted 22 January 2012 - 07:43 AM

Looks like he put more stitches at the top to prevent it from /flopping/sticking out.

Some people go to several tailors depending on what they want. And you don't want to judge a tailor by one coat or pants. After all, he may make coats many different ways. A summer coat is light and airy and depending on its use lots of stitches to only a few. Some tailors get to know the customer and how he wants the coat to handle. For example, some tailors cut the canvass from top to bottom (4-5 inches along the bottom) while other tailors won't take the canvass to the bottom. It depends on what one wants to see, how it feels, how it moves or flows and a number of other reasons, such as what kind of cloth, what kind of press job, and how much to control that area of the coat, to name a few more reasons. Ask the tailor why he likes to do it the ways he does it and you might learn a lot that other tailors don't know. With out knowing why a tailor does something it can be misleading to judge his work. Some tailors who judge other tailors know a little bit about them, but not enough to judge. If the character of the coat is what you like adding more or subtracting stitches or changing their methods would change the character of the coat. Each tailor gravitates to what he likes. There is more to the question than good tailoring and poor tailoring and some tailors are even under priced. And tailors who work out of expensive buildings have to charge more to pay the lease/rent, so that does not mean they are better. Some tailors adapt to the customers desires and some don't. Customers should pay attention to the result and not the method the tailor uses, if the work is good. Some customers demand certain methods they learned from another tailor for a certain result thinking the method is better, and in so doing may get a lesser coat.

Anyway, it is good to look around and maybe buy from other places, but you may come back to the first places because you like them more.
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#21 ladhrann

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Posted 22 January 2012 - 08:21 AM

Yes, I agree with Greger , its more complicated than that. I have a suit bench made by one man only for E1600, but that is a 4-piece with a waistcoat and extra trousers. But it is not perfect. At the same time I do expect it to be so. Perfect is for machines, but yes it is very very good.

#22 Lo Zingaro

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Posted 23 January 2012 - 09:47 AM

Ask the tailor why he likes to do it the ways he does it and you might learn a lot that other tailors don't know. .



Good point, I'll ask him when I'll see him next time!

Thx!

#23 Lo Zingaro

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Posted 01 February 2012 - 04:40 AM

Since today I got nothing to do (hehe!) I noticed in JefferyD Blog (Made by hand, really nice) his Milan's Caraceni (which charges you 4000 for a suit) suit that has no evidence of pad stitching behind the lapel.....Interesting!

http://www.flickr.co...in/photostream/


here you can see the lapel in HD.


Yours,


Lo Zingaro




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