18 replies to this topic

[TheDarkKnight]

Hello All,

I have posted this on Style Forum, but thought I would ask opinions here too. I'm looking to get a grey suit made (but only MTM at the mo).

Here are what I consider great shades and cloths

I think this below, is an excellent stripe - I really like fine, subtle and quite narrow stripes. I also think the lustre/sheen ( I am new to terms) is excellent



This below is J&J Minnis



Can someone describe the texturing on this cloth below, and suggest a cloth to match this?



And lastly, below, quite a light grey for Summer business wear ( minus the peak lapels - just the cloth colour) again could anyone suggest a cloth to match this?



As far as pricing goes, up to £75 per metre is my price range at the moment.

I would really like to see your photos of made up grey suits you really like also!

Thanks for your help!

[James]

I would call the two non pinstripe suits charcoal, the 2nd picture has bad lighting. I really like the 1st charcoal suit, I wouldnt mind knowing the the composition of fibers.

[Sator]

Grey is a colour that all complexions can wear. Never let anyone tell you that you or anyone else can't wear grey. The main thing is to try to find the shade of grey for your complexion. With grey it is very easy to try on ready made clothes in different shades until you find the right one for the occasions, your complexion - and your mood at the time! For summer I sometimes like a softer grey and for winter a darker shade of grey. One of my favourites is a true Oxford grey which is woven with 95-7% black yarn and 3-5% white yarn to give you a two tone salt-and-pepper effect. However, not all complexions can wear it well.

Don't look too hard at what others are wearing. Photographs are dependent on lighting and the quality of the camera. Don't lose sleep over it either or think too hard. Grey is very forgiving, and this is what makes it a good choice.

[TheDarkKnight]

Grey is a colour that all complexions can wear. Never let anyone tell you that you or anyone else can't wear grey. The main thing is to try to find the shade of grey for your complexion. With grey it is very easy to try on ready made clothes in different shades until you find the right one for the occasions, your complexion - and your mood at the time! For summer I sometimes like a softer grey and for winter a darker shade of grey. One of my favourites is a true Oxford grey which is woven with 95-7% black yarn and 3-5% white yarn to give you a two tone salt-and-pepper effect. However, not all complexions can wear it well.

Don't look too hard at what others are wearing. Photographs are dependent on lighting and the quality of the camera. Don't lose sleep over it either or think too hard. Grey is very forgiving, and this is what makes it a good choice.

Thanks for that advice Sator, that is helpful. I will try on some RTW greys to get a good idea. I'm quite olive skinned and have mid dark brown hair, so I think I will suit most greys from medium light to charcoal, but won't be able to pull off very light greys.

Here are some photos as an example, would you agree with the complexion to cloth colour options?




And below in Winter - I'm English - so we get about half an hour of daylight Nov - March!

[Sator]

I wouldn't rule out lighter shades of grey for summer wear. Try it. See if you like it when you try something on. This shade is a matter of taste and you won't get as much wear out of it because it is a summery colour.

I also like a bit of texture and surface interest. Two tone weaves (eg pick-and-pick weaves) or herringbones give it a bit of added dimension.

[TheDarkKnight]

I wouldn't rule out lighter shades of grey for summer wear. Try it. See if you like it when you try something on. This shade is a matter of taste and you won't get as much wear out of it because it is a summery colour.

I also like a bit of texture and surface interest. Two tone weaves (eg pick-and-pick weaves) or herringbones give it a bit of added dimension.

I agree with the texture and surface interest, especially with greys.

Actually here is a close up of the 3 piece charcoal from above. is this what you mean about the salt and pepper effect Sator? Could you post a pic of this, if not?

[Sator]

That one could still be a small design eg pindots or fine self check. I meant more something like this pick-and-pick:





From Dugdale English Classics and Royal Classics books respectively.

[TheDarkKnight]

The last sample looks especially great Sator. I'm having a look around Huddersfield fine wool's site, and I like the pick and pick charcoals, and the charcoal twills.

I wonder what a Charcoal prince of wales with a blue cross stripe would look like? I ask as this navy sample from HFW looks excellent IMO

Edited by TheDarkKnight, 19 February 2010 - 11:46 AM.

[Sator]

For business I would usually default to something plainer and would avoid checks altogether. However, that is a very conservative viewpoint. It's a question more of taste these days.

[greger]

Grey is a shade and not a color. So it goes with everything.

Blue does not go with everybody. Some people fit right into it.

[TheDarkKnight]

Ok chaps,

I got measured up for a MTM suit today at Steed in Cumbria, and chose Harrisons of Edinburgh mid-dark grey, a worsted wool sharkskin 11/12oz

The swatch code was LBD 47347, if anyone can access that?

The image below looks pretty close to it. I thought the texturing looked good and elegant. The suit is ready end of March, so I'll post up pics shortly after!

[TheDarkKnight]

Courtesy of Jeffery D, thanks Jeff.

As stated my cloth is LBD 47347, what do you think

[James]

I like 46 & 48

[TheDarkKnight]

I like 46 & 48

46 does look great, but I'd say in real life, 47 looks a bit lighter from memory, and actually a bit like 46 does in the photo.

I tried 48 as well, but thought it was a bit too dark for me.

Hopefully this goes well, and I can pick out some navy pin stripes, there were some excellent ones to choose

[Sator]

As stated my cloth is LBD 47347, what do you think

It looks like a pick-and-pick weave, which gives it that two-tone finish. You only see the salt-and-pepper texture up close. It generally looks like a sold from anything other distance. Very nice choice.

[TheDarkKnight]

Yes Sator, Edwin D said that it was a sharkskin, which is often described as pick and pick, is that right? Can you suggest a book of tailoring terms, or a link please?

Luckily I looked up the phonetic of 'worsted' so didn't look like a total no0b

Thank you on the compliment of choice. It was my first go at MTM, I've only ever had RTW before.

I had only meant to go in Steed to do a bit of homework, not to buy that day!

[Sator]

Sharkskin is American English for a pick-and-pick. I've noticed that British English tailoring terms are becoming slowly extinct possibly because of the proportion of American clients that British tailors have. Some Savile Row tailors even refer to dinner jackets as "tuxedoes" . Richard Anderson does so in his book IIRC. Likewise many British tailors have taken to referring to step lapels as "notched lapels", something that only American used to do.

I am pretty sure there is plenty in the way of a stuff on different weaves in the Textiles Forum. You just have to find it - the problem is that there is already too much to shift through. This is a good one:

http://www.cutterand...p?showtopic=384

The text is British and so makes no mention of "sharkskin".

[TheDarkKnight]

Great link, thank you Sator. I have learnt a lot from reading that today.