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The American Gentleman Pattern Grader (1948)


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#1 Sator

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Posted 25 February 2011 - 11:36 AM

The introduction and index of links to other sections of the book can be found by clicking here.

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#2 Sator

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Posted 25 February 2011 - 11:47 AM

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#3 Jake K

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Posted 25 February 2011 - 04:09 PM

To any neophytes reading this- you can use this as the basis for any trouser grading you have to do, it holds up. Trouser grading is an order of magnitude easier than coat grading and the rules are pretty stable because of this.
Jacob Kozinn
Custom Tailor in Los Angeles
http://jacobkozinn.com

#4 MANSIE WAUCH

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Posted 26 February 2011 - 05:10 AM

I came to this site with the intention of selling off my old books on Tailoring and cutting, seeing as I am retired now.

Now I find myself downloading pages like the grading stuff above, just to read and compere ideas.

The house is getting full of printouts and my own diagrams, books and patterns. The wife is threatening to leave me!
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#5 J. Maclochlainn

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Posted 26 February 2011 - 05:15 AM

Tell her that you are a living legend and your followers have supplicated you into being the god you are. I'm sure the Mrs. will understand then LOL

Otherwise, you know I have a good home and scanner here with no Mrs. to nag me :D
Silly Cognoscenti, Drape is for windows!

#6 jukes

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Posted 26 February 2011 - 05:30 AM

I came to this site with the intention of selling off my old books on Tailoring and cutting, seeing as I am retired now.

Now I find myself downloading pages like the grading stuff above, just to read and compere ideas.

The house is getting full of printouts and my own diagrams, books and patterns. The wife is threatening to leave me!


But i bet you feel thirty years younger Posted Image as for the wife just tell her you love her, that normally works (for a little while)

#7 jukes

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Posted 26 February 2011 - 05:30 AM

I came to this site with the intention of selling off my old books on Tailoring and cutting, seeing as I am retired now.

Now I find myself downloading pages like the grading stuff above, just to read and compere ideas.

The house is getting full of printouts and my own diagrams, books and patterns. The wife is threatening to leave me!


But i bet you feel thirty years younger Posted Image as for the wife just tell her you love her, that normally works (for a little while)

oops i must stop repeating myself, myself, myself , myself

Edited by jukes, 26 February 2011 - 05:32 AM.


#8 J. Maclochlainn

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Posted 26 February 2011 - 05:38 AM

I know when I go over to Mr. Hosteks, his eyes brighten right up. Speaking of which, another afternoon with him today. Unfortunately dishes are keeping me late.
Silly Cognoscenti, Drape is for windows!

#9 Jake K

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Posted 26 February 2011 - 10:58 AM

I came to this site with the intention of selling off my old books on Tailoring and cutting, seeing as I am retired now.

Now I find myself downloading pages like the grading stuff above, just to read and compere ideas.

The house is getting full of printouts and my own diagrams, books and patterns. The wife is threatening to leave me!


This site reignited my passion for tailoring knowledge as well, I was pretty demoralized when I first found it, and had just moved to LA.

To avoid the clutter of the printouts, I think it would be cool to put out a little quarterly Cutter & Tailor PDF. Edit the threads and diagrams down into a more traditional article. The new T&C, with some fake ads to make the industry look more healthy. ;)
Jacob Kozinn
Custom Tailor in Los Angeles
http://jacobkozinn.com

#10 Der Zuschneider

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    - Modern Tailoring by German Semi-Traditional Standards

Posted 01 March 2011 - 10:57 AM

I came to this site with the intention of selling off my old books on Tailoring and cutting, seeing as I am retired now.

Now I find myself downloading pages like the grading stuff above, just to read and compere ideas.

The house is getting full of printouts and my own diagrams, books and patterns. The wife is threatening to leave me!


You really love your tailoring then, keep doing it. Many tailors got 90 years and older cause they kept to be busy thinking and tailoring.
www.berlinbespokesuits.com

#11 Sator

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Posted 01 March 2011 - 02:24 PM

Posts have been updated to include the sections on breeches. This completes the section on trousers and breeches.

#12 MANSIE WAUCH

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Posted 02 March 2011 - 06:16 AM

Thank you all for your comments, I have no intention of giving up yet, its just that it is getting in the way of my sex life!

With having to stop to scan in something I have remembered, I am only having it twice a night!!

Thats what she is complaining about!!!

#13 MANSIE WAUCH

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Posted 02 March 2011 - 06:19 AM

Sorry Sator! but it cannot be all grading, patterns and intlinings.

The best suits have got to have humour sewn into them also.

#14 Martin Stall

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Posted 02 March 2011 - 07:06 AM

Thank you all for your comments, I have no intention of giving up yet, its just that it is getting in the way of my sex life!

With having to stop to scan in something I have remembered, I am only having it twice a night!!

Thats what she is complaining about!!!



Heheh... good to see that you're not only a tailor, but a scoundrel as well :)
Sure, I believe your work rocks, but... have you considered, how are you going to sell that stuff?

http: under construction...

#15 MANSIE WAUCH

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Posted 03 March 2011 - 08:22 AM

Heheh... good to see that you're not only a tailor, but a scoundrel as well :)



Arn't all tailors?

#16 Martin Stall

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Posted 03 March 2011 - 08:31 AM

Arn't all tailors?


Indeed! It's what makes this job fun.
Sure, I believe your work rocks, but... have you considered, how are you going to sell that stuff?

http: under construction...

#17 jcsprowls

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Posted 03 March 2011 - 11:07 AM

As Jake's profile says: "never trust a cutter who hasn't been arrested". Similar can be said of tailors.
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#18 Sator

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Posted 03 March 2011 - 12:04 PM

Thank you all for your comments, I have no intention of giving up yet, its just that it is getting in the way of my sex life!


Wait! I thought it was Jake who posted that :)

I think you are showing the younger bucks up a bit here.




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