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TROUSER CUTTING


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#1 A TAILOR

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Posted 18 July 2009 - 01:04 PM


ran across this book on amazon. copyright 1913. it is the basis of the modern version of what the school in chicago taught when i was there in 1950. by that time c. j. stone was long gone.
i know only of one of stones books on grading that is still around.
after WW2 mr. D.D. Bell taking advantage of veterans programs offered the course to vets, "mens clothes". mrs.Arnold taught the womens course.
i took the mens course and the tailored part of the womens course.
the book contains:
11 pages on anatomy and drafting.
14 pages on trouser drafts.
1 on golf breeches.
6 pages on riding breeches.
12 pages on disproportions.
can you imagen patterns cost what today is pocket change. and the full courses costing almost nothing.
well here are a few pages from that book.















#2 Terri

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Posted 19 July 2009 - 12:17 AM

Great book, nice to see bits from it.
I was wondering when someone was going to venture starting a trouser thread.

#3 le.gentleman

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Posted 19 July 2009 - 02:38 AM

Nice find and since it is from 1913 you could even scan all the 55 pages and make them available here because it is not under copyright anymore smile.gif.


#4 A TAILOR

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Posted 19 July 2009 - 03:43 AM

i was thinking about that also. in fact if anyone would like to have it.
just let me know and i will send you a full copy.

#5 A TAILOR

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Posted 19 July 2009 - 04:47 PM

WOW THAT WAS A MISTAKE. DIDNT TAKE LONG TO REALIZE WHAT I WAS GETTING INTO. IF ONLY A FEW MEMBERS ASKED FOR COPIES I WOULD BE SWAMPED. I AM AN AMATEUR ON THE COMPUTER AND TOO OLD [81] TO LEARN SOMETHING NEW. SO THE BEST THING TO DO IS TO PUT THE ENTIRE BOOK RIGHT HERE. SO THAT EVERYONE CAN COPY IT.
THIS TASK WILL HAVE TO WAIT UNTIL MY SON COMES BACK FROM SCOUT CAMP. HES A SCOUTMASTER.
I DEPEND ON MY SON TO GUIDE ME THROUGH THESE THINGS. HOPE I CAN PUT THIS ON VERY SOON.
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#6 posaune

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Posted 19 July 2009 - 06:57 PM

OH that would be real good thing to do, thank you so much. I love old books and look how modern this draft is.
I look forward. By the way, could someone tell me how big the seam allowance is. In Germany it is about 0.75 cm.

Posaune


I wondered too that I could not find anything about trousers here.

#7 le.gentleman

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Posted 19 July 2009 - 11:17 PM

@ A TAILOR: Well, then let's hope your son can help you with that. In case you have problems, let me know and I will help you.

@posaune

Nice to see another German member here! Where are you from?

Grüße aus Hamburg,

le.gentleman



#8 Sator

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Posted 20 July 2009 - 05:22 PM

QUOTE (posaune @ Jul 19 2009, 06:57 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
By the way, could someone tell me how big the seam allowance is.
I wondered too that I could not find anything about trousers here.



Old English language texts assume you know that it is a 1/4" seam (ie about 6mm).

There is plenty of stuff on trouser cutting on the way. I just haven't had time yet. Keep checking here regularly and we will get around to discussing all the topics you could imagine! Patience.

#9 posaune

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Posted 25 July 2009 - 07:46 PM


".......... that it is a 1/4" seam (ie about 6mm). "
Thanks Stator.

"....................Patience."
Oh Oh not one of my real issues!

"Nice to see another German member here! Where are you from?"

Near Frankfurt a. M. I'm working mostly with Mueller, especially trousers.
I collected pants drafts (ladies and gents). One I have is like this (but german) developing the draft scientifically. Must be written about the same time

LG
Posaune

#10 Hesketh

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Posted 30 July 2009 - 06:48 PM

QUOTE (posaune @ Jul 25 2009, 07:46 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
"Nice to see another German member here! Where are you from?"

Near Frankfurt a. M. I'm working mostly with Mueller, especially trousers.
I collected pants drafts (ladies and gents). One I have is like this (but german) developing the draft scientifically. Must be written about the same time

LG
Posaune


Hi Posaune,

Is that Klaus Mueller you're working for? Do you work full time for them or are you an independant trouser maker?

MfG

Rob

#11 posaune

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Posted 31 July 2009 - 05:14 AM

Oh no Rob,
I'm retired. My preferred method with pants is System Mueller and Son, so I did not express myself very well, sorry. I'm very interested in researching the handicraft and the different draft possibilities.

A while ago I read a "Prüfungsordnung für Lehrlinge des Schneiderhandewrks Herrenfach (printed about 1960)" and there was suggested that the apprentice should read a book which was written for the hobby sewist. Imagine!

This got me started. Shocked about it I began to collect drafts and methods from old tailors. And I try to transfer the old drafts (and the alteration due to body posture a.s.o) into a computer program.
I'm sure if nothing is done the knowledge and craft will die slowly. But this forum is a way to help that this will not be the case.
LG
Posaune


#12 Hesketh

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Posted 31 July 2009 - 05:04 PM

QUOTE (posaune @ Jul 31 2009, 05:14 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Oh no Rob,
I'm retired.


Ach Schade! I thought I'd found myself a trouser maker :-)

QUOTE (posaune @ Jul 31 2009, 05:14 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
A while ago I read a "Prüfungsordnung für Lehrlinge des Schneiderhandewrks Herrenfach (printed about 1960)" and there was suggested that the apprentice should read a book which was written for the hobby sewist. Imagine!


You know, thats not as daft as it sounds (although it is perhaps a poor reflection on the training offered).
The legs on the trousers belonging to some suits I had made by one tailor always tended to swing out and the tailor could never quite work out why. I actually found the answer or think I did, in the "Grosse Burda Naehbuch".

QUOTE (posaune @ Jul 31 2009, 05:14 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
This got me started. Shocked about it I began to collect drafts and methods from old tailors. And I try to transfer the old drafts (and the alteration due to body posture a.s.o) into a computer program.
LG
Posaune

That sounds like a very intersting, and challenging, project.

MfG
Rob

#13 Baron Samedi

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Posted 19 November 2009 - 09:50 AM

Hi all, I just thought I would post these, there are a few books here which may be of help to the trouser maker!

http://www.archive.o...subject:"pants"

http://www.archive.o...ortrouser00phil

http://www.archive.o...dardtrous00mitc

http://www.archive.o...dvancedsu00ston

http://www.archive.o...ewsuperla00ston

http://www.archive.o...scientifi00dela
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#14 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 19 December 2009 - 12:36 AM

Hello Posaune, here is a German too, living in Houston. We have the same obsession of making patterns and redeveloping them.
www.berlinbespokesuits.com

#15 Padme

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Posted 19 December 2009 - 10:47 AM

Hello Posaune, here is a German too, living in Houston. We have the same obsession of making patterns and redeveloping them.



I'm a native Texan, but my husband is German. We live near Dallas, Texas. Maybe someday we can get together and you can meet my husband. His parents came to America from Hamburg. I think it would be nice for him to meet other Germans and German Americans. I sew, but I am learning pattern drafting this coming year.




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