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The Tailor & Cutter Trouser Cutting System


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#1 Sator

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Posted 16 April 2010 - 12:05 AM

This comes from the last published book by The Tailor & Cutter on the subject before it closed shop. The book is Advanced Practical Designing for Men's Clothing, London 1970. The companion draft for lounge jackets and reefers can be found in this thread. Chaudhry was the Chief Pattern Designer for The Tailor & Cutter, and was praised as being "That most English of English Designers".

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The next one is a little bit more fashionable. Still, it is still understated enough to be both elegant as well as contemporary. We have recently seen this style do a round of the fashion cycle:

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For those interested in the earlier A.A. Whife era Tailor & Cutter system for trousers please see the following threads:

http://www.cutterand...p?showtopic=394

http://www.cutterand...p?showtopic=391

http://www.cutterand...p?showtopic=393

http://www.cutterand...p?showtopic=404

For the F.R. Morris variation on The Tailor & Cutter system for trousers see this thread:

http://www.cutterand...?showtopic=1291

Those interested in reading Dellafera's views on troubleshooting fitting problems with trousers see the following thread:

http://www.cutterand...p?showtopic=403

#2 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 18 April 2010 - 11:33 PM

In my opinion those trousers are modern cut and still traditional. The pattern looks perfect for me, same like in Rundschau.
Just adapt the knee width and add a pleat, or open the pattern in the front for a second pleat.
www.berlinbespokesuits.com

#3 Zephyrus

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Posted 26 June 2010 - 12:52 AM

Hi Sator,
Would you, please, be so kind as to post some scans of the book's pages regarding the 'flat-fronted trouser' cutting system (without waist pleats) ?
Chaudhry's system of cutting garments continues to intrigue me.
Maybe the pages I refer to are from another book by the same author entitled "Designing and Cutting Modern Leisure and Cotton Garments for Men".

Many thanks and I hope I did not bother you too much :)



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#4 Sator

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Posted 26 June 2010 - 05:34 PM

Would you, please, be so kind as to post some scans of the book's pages regarding the 'flat-fronted trouser' cutting system (without waist pleats) ?


This is all there is from the Chauhdry T&C books. There is nothing else. Perhaps one day I will find something in a T&C journal from circa 1970.

#5 zokiTzar

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Posted 26 June 2010 - 06:35 PM

hi
i will try to copy style of these
http://tuttofattoama...s-trousers.html
and use MTOC or TC draft
I have quite heavy blue striped prince of wales with no check??? very old piece of merino
thick and heavy
will see how it goes with ironwork and suspenders wings
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#6 Zephyrus

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Posted 26 June 2010 - 10:40 PM

This is all there is from the Chauhdry T&C books. There is nothing else. Perhaps one day I will find something in a T&C journal from circa 1970.


Sator,
Sincere thanks for the trouble you have taken to help me.
I would be very glad indeed, if one day you could find something about Chauhdry flat-fronted trouser draft, the last swan song ;) in an old T&C journal.

#7 Zephyrus

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Posted 26 June 2010 - 10:42 PM

hi
i will try to copy style of these
http://tuttofattoama...s-trousers.html
and use MTOC or TC draft
I have quite heavy blue striped prince of wales with no check??? very old piece of merino
thick and heavy
will see how it goes with ironwork and suspenders wings


zokiTzar,
Thanks so much for the ideas you have given.

#8 A TAILOR

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Posted 07 October 2016 - 09:36 AM

In Texas these are called "boot cut".

They wear them over their cowboy boots.


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