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A trouser draft


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#19 greger

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Posted 04 June 2010 - 05:30 PM

It is a very nice pattern and comfortable to wear. The one I use most often is very similar.

Metric- never used before. Used of seeing scale. So, seeing 1/6 instead of 1/3 is rather different.
Instead of 10 I just bump out at 11 quarter of an inch. 11 to 12 works very well, except like any, is the person average or, wide hip and flat seat or, the other way around?
Not sure why there is a 6.
I usually bump 23 out from 12 two inches.
If one puts the zero end of the tape measure (or, four foot ruler) at 3 and measures up to 4, then 2, and after that 1- that is four measurements without moving the tape, but just marking off the locations.

If I draw one system with one color ink and then another with another color of in and several more the crease line is different in in everyone. How does one really know where the best place for the crease to be?

It is nice to see this one up on the internet. The one I have used is copyrighted, so it can't be posted (besides it has some errors, anyway).
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#20 MANSIE WAUCH

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Posted 05 June 2010 - 07:12 AM

This looks ok, everything else here is odd.


The older trouser pattern is from the book by Poole!
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#21 MANSIE WAUCH

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Posted 05 June 2010 - 07:21 AM

It is a very nice pattern and comfortable to wear. The one I use most often is very similar.

Metric- never used before. Used of seeing scale. So, seeing 1/6 instead of 1/3 is rather different.
Instead of 10 I just bump out at 11 quarter of an inch. 11 to 12 works very well, except like any, is the person average or, wide hip and flat seat or, the other way around?
Not sure why there is a 6.
I usually bump 23 out from 12 two inches.
If one puts the zero end of the tape measure (or, four foot ruler) at 3 and measures up to 4, then 2, and after that 1- that is four measurements without moving the tape, but just marking off the locations.

If I draw one system with one color ink and then another with another color of in and several more the crease line is different in in everyone. How does one really know where the best place for the crease to be?

It is nice to see this one up on the internet. The one I have used is copyrighted, so it can't be posted (besides it has some errors, anyway).


You have a good point there, greger! I can do the draft in inches as well as metric. I must try a pattern with both!

The funny thing is, if I measure anyone for a garment I always tend to measure in inches, but if I draft a pattern I use the metric system.

I started in inches and ended in metric! I forget some people don't use both.
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#22 greger

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Posted 05 June 2010 - 11:26 AM

It seems like it would be easier to draft the pattern in metric.

The first pants pattern I did I cut scale lenght of paper and divided that into thirds and cut one third off. From there it was easy to mark off the rest of the measurements as I came to them. The one third lenght is folded in half for 1/6 and fold that in half for 1/12 and so on. Might have to add a fraction to the measure afterwards here or there. Didn't have a tailors square and folding the paper is easier than doing the math. Metric would make the math easy. (The fraction, inches, foot, fathoms, 360 degrees all add up to navigational purposes, which is probably where it comes from.) Before modern measurements some tailors would use a strip of paper to mark measurements when measureing the person. From this it is rather easy to divide in half, quarters, etc. and add a thumb width or two for ease and a little finger width for seam allowances. Modern measurements seem smarter, but in the end how much do we eyeball anyway? Thought about converting to metric to see how it works.

#23 jcsprowls

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Posted 05 June 2010 - 12:09 PM

I find it easier to fold the tape measure to calculate divisions. I have a tendency to use 1/5 and 1/10 divisions in my drafts, which aren't on the scale side of the L-square.

I liked drafting in metric because it was so much easier to remember. I may convert back just because.
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#24 jukes

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Posted 05 June 2010 - 04:18 PM

I still draft in inches, using a stick, square and a calculator. Metric would be easier i suppose, but i am used to imperial.

#25 jcsprowls

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Posted 05 June 2010 - 05:12 PM

Here's a scale of that I keep near the digitizing station for grading patterns. It's helpful for drafting, too.

Table: Aliquot Parts
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#26 Martin Stall

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Posted 06 June 2010 - 12:34 AM

I saw Tom Mahon cut a coat when I visited him. In inches. Made my head spin.
Sure, I believe your work rocks, but... have you considered, how are you going to sell that stuff?

http: under construction...

#27 MANSIE WAUCH

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Posted 13 June 2010 - 08:57 AM

I still draft in inches, using a stick, square and a calculator. Metric would be easier i suppose, but i am used to imperial.



An old timer I see!
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#28 jukes

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Posted 13 June 2010 - 04:03 PM

An old timer I see!

Not retiring just yet, a few years left in the old dog. :wacko:

#29 MANSIE WAUCH

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Posted 03 August 2010 - 05:36 AM

This method is almost the same as i draft trousers, apart from the seat angle, so on Monday i cut and made a pair following these instructions along with 1/4 waist measure either side of 3/4" back from topside waist centre line, as explained in the other draft instructions.
The results were very good, so i think i will stick with this.



Nice to know I have been able to help you!

#30 J. Maclochlainn

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Posted 03 August 2010 - 07:08 AM

Nice table JC, thanks for sharing and will be promptly nicking it for my table :)

I cut by inches as well, there is no shame in it and you can be just as accurate with inches.
Silly Cognoscenti, Drape is for windows!

#31 jukes

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Posted 04 August 2010 - 03:18 AM

Nice to know I have been able to help you!


Thanks. I made one slight adjustment, to locate point 21 instead of the method described, i used point 4 as a pivot and made 21 the same measure as 4 to 22

#32 MANSIE WAUCH

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Posted 05 August 2010 - 06:29 AM

Thanks. I made one slight adjustment, to locate point 21 instead of the method described, i used point 4 as a pivot and made 21 the same measure as 4 to 22



I see were you are coming from with that method, You are measuring in the waist first to locate point 22 then swinging over to locate 21 for the seat angle, ( are you pivoting from 22 to 21 and then pivoting from point 4 to locate the intersection of both, for seat angle and height of seat seam?)

Edited by MANSIE WAUCH, 05 August 2010 - 06:30 AM.


#33 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 07 August 2010 - 07:11 AM

This method is almost the same as i draft trousers, apart from the seat angle, so on Monday i cut and made a pair following these instructions along with 1/4 waist measure either side of 3/4" back from topside waist centre line, as explained in the other draft instructions.
The results were very good, so i think i will stick with this.


The seat angel is to straight, is probably a marching trouser or walking around standing guard, but not sitting down.
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#34 jukes

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Posted 07 August 2010 - 04:39 PM

I see were you are coming from with that method, You are measuring in the waist first to locate point 22 then swinging over to locate 21 for the seat angle, ( are you pivoting from 22 to 21 and then pivoting from point 4 to locate the intersection of both, for seat angle and height of seat seam?)


Yes, for seat angle and height.

#35 nsw

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Posted 19 November 2010 - 08:14 AM

Mansie, thanks for posting your draft. I have just made a toile from it with great results. Very comfortable. I think I shall use it 'in anger' in the not too distant future.

One question: what is the reason behind you taking 3cm off the rise?

All the best, NSW.

#36 MANSIE WAUCH

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Posted 19 November 2010 - 08:25 AM

Mansie, thanks for posting your draft. I have just made a toile from it with great results. Very comfortable. I think I shall use it 'in anger' in the not too distant future.

One question: what is the reason behind you taking 3cm off the rise?

All the best, NSW.



I am glad you are happy with the draft. The 3cm off the rise measure is the amount of the waistband width,(once the waistband is added the rise measure will be correct.)
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