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The English High Rise Trouser


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#37 NW Tailor

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Posted 11 December 2010 - 12:03 PM

Sniveling... I want a thimble! And a rubber stamp!! :Cry:


(I do have custom labels made for bespoke clients ~ but totally love what you've done to make your craft fun... it's all about feeding the soul...)

Edited by NW Tailor, 11 December 2010 - 12:05 PM.

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#38 Sator

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Posted 11 December 2010 - 02:35 PM

Yes, very nice work, DZ!

#39 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 11 December 2010 - 02:48 PM

Sniveling... I want a thimble! And a rubber stamp!! :Cry:


(I do have custom labels made for bespoke clients ~ but totally love what you've done to make your craft fun... it's all about feeding the soul...)


So where do I get the labels? 3.5 x 7.0cm sewing inside the coat.
www.berlinbespokesuits.com

#40 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 12 December 2010 - 05:06 PM

Erich Honecker would have said "Weltneiveau" :drool: :crazy:

Who in the world has such thing in the pants, Henry Pole?

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Edited by Der Zuschneider, 12 December 2010 - 05:07 PM.

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#41 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 13 December 2010 - 05:48 PM

Vorderhose mit Zugpatte. Very traditional!

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#42 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 14 December 2010 - 06:15 AM

Even when my thread confuses silence, I am continuing showing pictures.

This is how a trouser has to be ironed on the felt mat. See the accurateness of shortness in the hollow of the knee for this loose trouser and width over the bottom.
If your trousers don't look like mine here they are not ready iron dressed. Forget about all those nonsense ironing trousers parts alone like a sorcerer in the pictures we see always in the literature, you hardly donít get that. My master explained the shortcut to me 20 years ago.

I doubt that there is any chance with a 3 pound 500Euro Iron steamer and small sucking table to get those results.
I am working with 60 and 75years old 6kg and 8kg dry irons on a felt mat like the tailors used to work traditional. I also donít use any Teflon equipment.

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#43 Sator

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Posted 14 December 2010 - 10:31 AM

Even when my thread confuses silence, I am continuing showing pictures.


We're not confused, just enjoying the pictures.

Keep posting away.

#44 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 14 December 2010 - 01:08 PM

OK, I was worried.

For my next trousers I make changes, this trouser looks so old fashion from the 30thies, I saw my Grandfather and my father wearing such pants. They are very comfortable with the ease over the buttom and waist, hold by suspenders. People will look weired at me... :crazy: But they are my most comforatble pants now. I can even eat a little more there is still a little room in the front.
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#45 amateursarto

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Posted 14 December 2010 - 01:19 PM

DZ,
Very nice trousers. Is that the mat you were sourcing awhile back with a felt supplier? How's it performing? Would you mind posting a pic of your iron? I'd like to see if mine is similar in size. I haven't used it yet since I haven't got a mat.
AMATEURSARTO

#46 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 14 December 2010 - 06:02 PM

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#47 jukes

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Posted 14 December 2010 - 06:37 PM

DZ really nice.

#48 posaune

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Posted 15 December 2010 - 01:23 AM

Very tidy and beautiful done! If it is possible - could you take a picture from the place where the curtain is fastened over the pocket lining?
But not like you have shown it. A picture with the ready pocket and how do you fasten the curtain there.
But maybe with the next trouser. It may be to late now.

Lg
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#49 NW Tailor

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Posted 15 December 2010 - 04:41 AM

I've been buried under a growing mound of wool for the past week and what JOY to log in today and find such beautiful examples of our trade!!! Pockets are delightful, you should be proud of retaining your skills after a long absense ~ but what really inspires me is the inside finish detail. I would love to see detailed assembly of your curtain finish, when you have a chance ~ :good:
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#50 J. Maclochlainn

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Posted 15 December 2010 - 04:42 AM

Yeah, not bad for an amateur :spiteful: :poke: :frantics:
Silly Cognoscenti, Drape is for windows!

#51 NW Tailor

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Posted 15 December 2010 - 08:50 AM

So where do I get the labels? 3.5 x 7.0cm sewing inside the coat.


I have NO idea where one might get labels overseas... I have all of my custom labels done at PCB Label (link below) ~ they aren't cheap, but... love that I can provide long-time clients with individual customization. I would assume they'd ship international?
Also... when a client put in for a rush job after a hotel WASHED five pair of his custom wool trousers ~ I include care/content labels in everything I make. Those come from PCB Label, too...

http://www.pcblabel.com/
"The quality of a person's life is in direct proportion to their commitment to excellence, regardless of their chosen field of endeavor."
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#52 NW Tailor

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Posted 15 December 2010 - 08:54 AM

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Are you using a folder attachment for your bias edging? What width? I've been using 1/4" edging, think yours looks a bit wider, and I like the extra contrast...

(Or maybe it just looks wider because of the close up photo?)

"The quality of a person's life is in direct proportion to their commitment to excellence, regardless of their chosen field of endeavor."
~Vince Lombardi

#53 rs232

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Posted 15 December 2010 - 09:29 AM

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Why haven't you pressed along the grain on the back piece? I thought you were meant to do it for the back and front - is it usual to do this only for the front piece?

#54 jcsprowls

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Posted 15 December 2010 - 09:53 AM

I include care/content labels in everything I make

Whether you make one piece or thousands, you are required by the FTC to put care, content and country of origin labels in your garments.

Stock care labels are easy to get though: http://www.allthings...com/Default.asp
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