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The English High Rise Trouser


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#73 Nishijin

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Posted 17 December 2010 - 06:13 AM

Damn it, DZ ! Your trousers are so beautiful. Now I can't sleep until I've made some just as good... I hate you. :angry:
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#74 Torry Kratch

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Posted 17 December 2010 - 06:34 AM

Damn it, DZ ! Your trousers are so beautiful. Now I can't sleep until I've made some just as good... I hate you. :angry:

:thumbsup:
Thanks again for the photo! It is also very interesting to look at your studio. --- something that I picked up "the weapons ". Although surprising, as it seems we are creating our own "little world".
I'll wait for the demonstration with suspenders.

About the location of the fold line, between the strips will not say anything, because your pants are not subject to criticism. I will try somehow to show clearly what I mean.

#75 Nishijin

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Posted 17 December 2010 - 07:07 AM

It is also very interesting to look at your studio.


Oh yes. I still have some work to be done in my workshop, I looked very carefully on those pictures and picked up ideas.
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Clothes make the man. Naked people have little or no influence on society.
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#76 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 17 December 2010 - 07:38 AM

:thumbsup:
Thanks again for the photo! It is also very interesting to look at your studio. --- something that I picked up "the weapons ". Although surprising, as it seems we are creating our own "little world".
I'll wait for the demonstration with suspenders.

About the location of the fold line, between the strips will not say anything, because your pants are not subject to criticism. I will try somehow to show clearly what I mean.


Torry, believe me the stripe has to be in the crease, don't waste your cloth.
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#77 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 17 December 2010 - 07:40 AM

Oh yes. I still have some work to be done in my workshop, I looked very carefully on those pictures and picked up ideas.


If you have questions about some tools, ask me.
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#78 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 17 December 2010 - 07:46 AM

Damn it, DZ ! Your trousers are so beautiful. Now I can't sleep until I've made some just as good... I hate you. :angry:


Wait until I start my waistcoat... I have to read a few things before I start the waistcoat.
There are many making approaches I have to evaluate first in order to find the best and fastest way later on.

But this becomes a new thread then, like the trousers here.
I will build together a 'Stehbrustweste' with waist coat buckle.
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#79 Nishijin

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Posted 17 December 2010 - 07:52 AM

DZ, if in a few days I decide to quit the job, you'll know who to blame. Or maybe one day I'll knock at your door asking you take me as an apprentice :Big Grin:

Sorry, not many questions about the tools so far. It seems they are pretty standard. Or, better said, from the pictures I don't see the difference with what I know. Then, there might be "hidden things". For example, there's no way from the picture to know you ordered special felt for the mat. And I'd need to try it to se the difference with my own mat and decide if I need to order the felt.

I still don't have all your tools, but it's a work in progress, and I hope I will have everything soon now. Having a woodworker in the family can be useful.
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http://www.paulgrassart.com

Clothes make the man. Naked people have little or no influence on society.
Mark Twain

#80 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 17 December 2010 - 08:10 AM

My friend just told me the trouser is not to be worn only to be looked at and for enjoyment.
Its a crime to make such trousers because you cannot wear them they got wrinkled. :crazy:

To have a wood worker in the family is handy, the wood has to be beech and oak. Those wood tools can be ordered in Germany, but very expensive cause of the making and kind of wood.
For the felt you need a hard felt 2cm thick, and a heavy iron. Little by little you will find those things together. Don't give up.

But still someone has to show you the tricks of using those things.

Edited by Der Zuschneider, 17 December 2010 - 08:12 AM.

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#81 Schneidergott

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Posted 19 December 2010 - 06:49 AM

Really nice trousers, DZ.
I started to think that you were talking smack when you claimed to already be "hell good"! :Big Grin: :im Not Worthy:

But I think I can speak on behalf of all the other members here: Please show a picture of you wearing those trousers (preferably along with a shirt... :spiteful: )!

"Nur der ist Meister seiner Kunst, der immer sucht, das Gute zu verbessern und niemals glaubt, das Beste schon zu haben."
"Only he is a master of his art who always seeks to improve the good and never believes to have the best already"

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#82 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 19 December 2010 - 11:48 AM

Mit 25 war ich auch schon auf dem Level, es gibt nur ganz wenige von meiner Sorte. Die naechste Hose stelle ich in 4 Tagen her, ich weiss ja jetzt wie es geht. Die Qualitaet kann man noch bischen steigern, ein paar Fehler sind ja drinn, die man nicht sieht. Das war nur ein Uebungshose. Jetzt bereite ich die Weste vor.

Ich hatte damals meinem Vater einen Anzug gemacht und dann sind wir zu einem Schneider Lehrstelle suchen. Der Schneidermeister hat sofort gesehen was los war und hat einen anderen Schneidermeister angerufen und dann wurde innerhalb von 2 Wochen eine Lehrstelle fuer mich geschaffen. Er meinte, er haette Schneider hier sitzen die koennen das nicht mit 10 Jahren Berufserfahrung. Es gab nur 3 Schneider in Berlin die jemanden genommen hatten. Ich kam dann mit dazu (1986).

Edited by Der Zuschneider, 19 December 2010 - 11:52 AM.

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#83 NW Tailor

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Posted 13 January 2011 - 05:27 AM

Mit 25 war ich auch schon auf dem Level, es gibt nur ganz wenige von meiner Sorte. Die naechste Hose stelle ich in 4 Tagen her, ich weiss ja jetzt wie es geht. Die Qualitaet kann man noch bischen steigern, ein paar Fehler sind ja drinn, die man nicht sieht. Das war nur ein Uebungshose. Jetzt bereite ich die Weste vor.

Ich hatte damals meinem Vater einen Anzug gemacht und dann sind wir zu einem Schneider Lehrstelle suchen. Der Schneidermeister hat sofort gesehen was los war und hat einen anderen Schneidermeister angerufen und dann wurde innerhalb von 2 Wochen eine Lehrstelle fuer mich geschaffen. Er meinte, er haette Schneider hier sitzen die koennen das nicht mit 10 Jahren Berufserfahrung. Es gab nur 3 Schneider in Berlin die jemanden genommen hatten. Ich kam dann mit dazu (1986).


What would I do without Google Translate???

"At 25 I was already on the level, there are only a few of my kind. The next pants I make in 4 days, so now I know how it goes. The quality you can increase bit still a few bugs are inside so that you can not see. This was just a Uebungshose. Now I'm preparing the vest.

I had then made my father a suit and then we are looking for a tailor apprenticeship. The tailor has now seen what was going on and has another master tailor, and then was called within 2 weeks for a training position created for me. He said he would have to sit here the cutter can not do that with 10 years of professional experience. There were only 3 had taken Tailors in Berlin someone. I came to this (1986)."
"The quality of a person's life is in direct proportion to their commitment to excellence, regardless of their chosen field of endeavor."
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#84 Sator

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Posted 13 January 2011 - 07:40 AM

BTW I occasionally find Babelfish a little bit better than Google but not this time:

With 25 I was on the level, it already give only completely few from my sort. I manufacture the next trousers in 4 days, I like it go white now. The quality can one still little increase, a few error are drinn, which one does not see. That was only exercise trousers. Now I prepare the waistcoat. I had made at that time a suit for my father and am then we to a cutter training place to search. The cutter master has immediately seen which was the matter and has another cutter master called and then a training place became for me production within 2 weeks. He meant, he could not cutters here to sit those with 10 years professional experience. It gave only 3 to cutters in Berlin the someone had taken. I came along then in addition (1986).

It has mistranslated "weiss" as "white" rather than "know".

#85 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 13 January 2011 - 01:58 PM

Still wrong translated... but nobody will read it anyways.
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#86 NW Tailor

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Posted 14 January 2011 - 09:22 AM

Still wrong translated... but nobody will read it anyways.


I did!!! :im Not Worthy:
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#87 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 21 January 2011 - 07:02 AM

Why haven't you pressed along the grain on the back piece? I thought you were meant to do it for the back and front - is it usual to do this only for the front piece?


The reason why the back trouser does not go with the grain is because I have the back trouser crease displaced about 1.5cm in order to move the iron work towards the inner trouser seams which is easier to iron dress. I think with this fabric and width in the legs it would be possible to iron dress the trouser equal on both seams. Then there would not be a need of displacing the back trouser crease and the back trouser also would go with the grain. Another advantage of displaced crease is the side seam runs smother with the stripes and you have less waste of fabric when cutting out and you have a better fit in the side seam as it is not so hollow there. So there is more advantage than running the crease with the grain under the butt. It is not wrong to displace the crease, it is the modern art of tailoring to make life easier.

Edited by Der Zuschneider, 21 January 2011 - 07:04 AM.

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#88 dpcoffin

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Posted 14 March 2015 - 05:54 AM

Wow. I'm SO sorry I've only now discovered this thread, thanks to a link from James J. I hate that I've missed so many of the now deleted pix, though....anybody have them stored away and willing to share?

Truly magnificent and inspiring work, thank you, Der Zuschneider, for sharing this view from the TOP.



#89 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 14 March 2015 - 11:23 AM

Pics are just moved in photobucket. Just follow the links and look there.


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