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Deriving a Waistcoat from the Coat Pattern


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#1 Sator

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Posted 30 October 2009 - 08:36 AM

Here is a nice method for deriving a waistcoat from a lounge coat pattern. There is a lengthy step by step explanation of it all but the diagram is actually perfectly self-explanatory. As usual with the Rundschau system all seams (7.5mm) are allowed for. The length L is the desired length of the waistcoat.

R-r: the chest width
T1-b1: the waist measure

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Die Zuschneidekunst shows you how to derive a couple of specific styles (Nrs 472 and 473) from the coat pattern:

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Abb 479 also shows you how to apply some direct measures. Start from the C7 vertebra and measure to the top buttoning point. Next measure to the bottom of centre front of W-C. Abb 480 shows a chest dart partly hidden in the welted pocket.

Lastly, the W-C for a corpulent figure:

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#2 Yenting.C

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Posted 03 February 2015 - 09:48 AM

Can anyone please tell me R-r is the chest width of what? If it's just the front chest width, it doesn't seem to be enough for the full chest circumference. And T1-b1 is the waist measure of what?



#3 posaune

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Posted 03 February 2015 - 06:09 PM

No, you must look at the Rundschau longue coat draft. It is Rb + D to a1 (or so I think). It is the back plus measure from the side panel.

lg

posaune


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#4 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 04 February 2015 - 12:48 PM

R - r1    = 1/2 Chest + 4.0 cm

T1 - b1 = 1/2 Waist + 7.0cm


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#5 Yenting.C

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Posted 05 February 2015 - 03:20 AM

Thanks for the replies everyone!






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