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The Rundschau System for Trousers


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#19 J.Kelner

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Posted 12 September 2010 - 04:13 PM

Here's the PDF I made for use of the board if anyone cares to download it. :)

Rundschau System for Cutting Trousers - 1959

Edited by J. Kelner, 14 September 2010 - 10:55 PM.

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#20 posaune

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Posted 13 September 2010 - 08:05 PM

I can't go in.
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#21 Sanguis Mortuum

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Posted 20 December 2010 - 06:14 AM

Where S3 is 1.5cm from S2, is this for the dress? And if I want to remove the dress, should I move this so that S2-S3 is 0.75cm to correspond to B1-b2, or should I remove it completely so that S3 is the same place as S2?

#22 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 20 December 2010 - 01:14 PM

I can't go in.
Lg
posaune


You can, just write the quote in that window.
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#23 roaraune

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Posted 31 January 2011 - 12:03 AM

The whole problem of how to calculate the Spaltdurchmesser seems to be a little troublesome at the beginning of learning how to make
perfect fitted trousers.
The easiest way to try to explain is: the seat width (hu) is the measurement around the body at seat heighth or where it is largest. Obviously
this is not a circular measure but more or less oval depending on if the hips are wide or narrow and the seat muscle strong or flat. In the spaltdurchmesser this is
taken into consideration : a strong seat needs a larger spalt ( cut out ) a flat seat needs less. Both w the same seat measurement.

Hope this clearifies somewhat.

Anyway : to make a prefect pair of trousers is maybe one of the most difficult tasks in the bespoke practice.
The same pattern sometimes changes relative much if you change the fabric.

As for the question of corpulent pattern I will revert later : basically you have 2 choices : 1 ) cut lower ( not in bespoke tradition) or 2) cut higher and forwards ( ( in my opinion the correct way for suspenders.)

#24 Roma

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Posted 16 May 2011 - 03:16 AM

Here is the long awaited Rundschau system for cutting trousers. I also have the ladies' system too which will appear in due course. Unfortunately, reading, absorbing and then translating these things is very time consuming.

The measurements:

Posted Image

From left to right:
1. The side seam length (taken down to the top of the heel of the shoe)
2. The inseam length

The following example of trousers with plain fronts are based on the following measures:

Posted Image

The Measures
Side seam to top of heel = 104cm
Inseam to top of heel = 80/40cm
Waist measure = 82/42cm
Seat measure = 100/50cm
Difference between waist and seat = 16cm
Hem measure = 42/21cm



waist measure should be 84, not 82

#25 Philip_AMS

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Posted 05 January 2012 - 07:47 PM

I have just made this draft and I have one question. On this draft it mentions that the hem measure should be 42/21cm I presume it that this is a finished trouser hem width measure because its not a body measure. So based on this the front draft mentions the front width (a to b) is 1/2 the hem width and that the back is this measure plus 2.5cm each side to make points c and d and that seams are included on the draft and they are 3/4cm so based on my calculations the following hem is 44cm finished? but I was expecting the basic draft to have 42cm finished

a - b = 21cm
c - d = 21+2.5+2.5 = 26cm
minus seams total (4 x 0.75) = - 3cm


total finished hem = 44cm

have i missed something? I was expecting 42cm not 44cm on my draft.

I'm also wonder why in the original text it mentions on the front hem draft in german = (a to b 1/2 furBweite %1) should I have calculated a percentage here?


#26 Kerry

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Posted 06 January 2012 - 02:09 AM

I'm also wonder why in the original text it mentions on the front hem draft in german = (a to b 1/2 furBweite %1) should I have calculated a percentage here?


The symbol that you read as a percentage is the german way of writing minus ( - ). Often it looks like full stops and a forward slash = ./. on the older drafts it is more like a percent symbol.


So, in this case the draft calls for half the hem width, minus one = 20

a - b = 20cm
c - d = 21+2.5+2.5 = 25cm
minus seams total (4 x 0.75) = - 3cm

giving you 42cm hem.


I hope that helps.

#27 Philip_AMS

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Posted 06 January 2012 - 06:26 AM

thanks that makes it much clearer, i hope to do a few more of these drafts from these book. I will start to get used to seeing that percentage / minus sign more then.

#28 posaune

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Posted 06 January 2012 - 06:32 AM

it is done to make it very clear that you subtract the numbers in comparison with 2-3 (which may mean you add 2 till 3 cm or drawing from point 3 to 2). The sign is used in book keeping, too.
lg
posaune
oh I see it is already clear!

Edited by posaune, 06 January 2012 - 06:39 AM.


#29 Philip_AMS

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Posted 06 January 2012 - 06:52 AM

thats so funny you mention that because also in this trouser draft is exactly that where it mentioned - 1/4 bundweite + 2-3 cm which totally threw me to start with. But drafting more of these should help with the handwriting of the system.

#30 Philip_AMS

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Posted 03 March 2012 - 04:57 AM

So I have just drafted this with the following measures - waist 94 seat, 101, diff - 7, inseam 80

I have tried to take some pictures of the pattern as to get some advise. When I measured the person for this draft I took the waist measure at the waist point which ended around where the belly button is.

As the measures of the waist against the seat is only 7cm diff I'm wondering if I should be using a corpulent draft for this.

Also the trousers I presume it come up high on the waist but the finished measure of the pattern on the waist ends up now at 97 which is then 3cm more than the actual waist. I'm wondering if that will end up too big?

[attachment=591:IMG_2347.JPG]I measured out of interest a pair of there trousers from this person but these are Ready to wear and sit more under the waist and so the waist measure of the trouser is measuring 90cm
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#31 Philip_AMS

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Posted 03 March 2012 - 04:59 AM

Note - the draft puts 2 darts in the back, due to the fact that my left over on the back waist was only 1.3cm I only put 1 dart in the back waist.

#32 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 03 March 2012 - 12:27 PM

Note - the draft puts 2 darts in the back, due to the fact that my left over on the back waist was only 1.3cm I only put 1 dart in the back waist.


1.3cm is too little, there is something wrong. The seat seam has now seam allowance...
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#33 Philip_AMS

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Posted 03 March 2012 - 09:45 PM

All the seam aowances were added when the draft was finished. I will try again with 3rd scale too see if it yields the same results. Although I am dealing with a waist of 94 and a seat of 101 so not such a difference on the measures

#34 Nishijin

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Posted 03 March 2012 - 10:43 PM

Why would 1.3cm dart be too little ? I've already had customers who needed even less than that ! My "standard" dart is 1.5cm. People with a flat seat and hips forward can need less than 1cm.

Philip, it is difficult to guide you on questions like size of dart and need for a corpulent cut with only the girth measures. Girth doesn't say where the shapes are located. Some people carry shape on the belly, other all around... We can't have an idea of the figure with just 2 girth numbers.
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#35 posaune

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Posted 01 December 2012 - 07:43 PM

There is a new book for trouser construktions from Rundschau
http://www.muellerso...nen-hosen,1575/

lg posaune

#36 Nishijin

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Posted 02 December 2012 - 06:01 AM

Posaune,
thanks for telling us about it.

Do you know if this book is only about cutting, or if there is also chapters on making ?
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