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#91 posaune

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Posted 24 July 2018 - 06:10 AM

I just want to explain my sentences. If you are sewing a collar, it is absolutely necessary to work at the mm. You'll notice later if the collar is not symmetrical. If the right side of a shirt is a bit hanging (or so, only here as an example) you will not notice easily, because you move around. But a collar does not move. So I want to stress the point. If the left is standing away when the other side is right you have to pinch a bit from the left side. Something you want to avoid if possible. If you set it deeper at left (and I see 5 mm at last) it will be nearer to the neck

lg

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#92 benjaminh

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Posted 24 July 2018 - 10:02 AM

I just want to explain my sentences. If you are sewing a collar, it is absolutely necessary to work at the mm. You'll notice later if the collar is not symmetrical. If the right side of a shirt is a bit hanging (or so, only here as an example) you will not notice easily, because you move around. But a collar does not move. So I want to stress the point. If the left is standing away when the other side is right you have to pinch a bit from the left side. Something you want to avoid if possible. If you set it deeper at left (and I see 5 mm at last) it will be nearer to the neck

lg

posaune

 

Thanks for the extra clarification. I'm trying to work as neatly and precisely here as possible, but it's starting to get quite difficult given the number of adjustments, particularly at the neckline, where I've even had to add extra cloth.

 

What do you think of the current location of the top of the armscye (white stay stitching)? I'm not 100% sure of how to refine the armscye shape before adding the sleeve.


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#93 posaune

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Posted 24 July 2018 - 07:56 PM

Benjaminh, it depends on what you want. I would prefer the right side - taken away maybe a bit (0.5-0.8 cm). It is longer as the left and covers more of the Shoulder. It gives a sportive look when having a V - form. But this is me. If you want more fitted  you go after the left side. If you use the left side pay attention to the cap height of the sleeve. Before you cut out glue some interface under the whole armhole, so you will not have this untidyness as at the neck if you have clipped to deep. Cut first one armhole, put the shirt on and look if okay. Then copy it to the other.  For this you must fold the shirt into half, that the wrong sides sandwiches one about the other. Now your right shoulder is lower. So pin at CF and Neckpoint, shoulder seam and side seam. It is easier if the armhole form is identical.

lg

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#94 benjaminh

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Posted 25 July 2018 - 10:46 AM

Benjaminh, it depends on what you want. I would prefer the right side - taken away maybe a bit (0.5-0.8 cm). It is longer as the left and covers more of the Shoulder. It gives a sportive look when having a V - form. But this is me. If you want more fitted  you go after the left side. If you use the left side pay attention to the cap height of the sleeve. Before you cut out glue some interface under the whole armhole, so you will not have this untidyness as at the neck if you have clipped to deep. Cut first one armhole, put the shirt on and look if okay. Then copy it to the other.  For this you must fold the shirt into half, that the wrong sides sandwiches one about the other. Now your right shoulder is lower. So pin at CF and Neckpoint, shoulder seam and side seam. It is easier if the armhole form is identical.

lg

posaune

 

Thanks posaune; currently my shirt is symmetrical, which I'm considering leaving it, at least for the first real shirt. 

Regarding the shoulder width, which one (longer vs shorter), provides more ease and range of arm movement? I'm assuming the longer one, as it should be able to use a shorter sleeve cap?


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#95 posaune

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Posted 25 July 2018 - 06:58 PM

yes.

lg

posaune

 

 

shortest mail ever!


Edited by posaune, 26 July 2018 - 12:36 AM.

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#96 benjaminh

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Posted 27 July 2018 - 12:39 PM

Here are some images with the left armscye refined. What do you think of it's shape/size? I can just fit two fingers between my arm and the seamline.

uve2zumpswyg9pv4g.jpg

q9okd557gno14oa4g.jpg

wn26auh8ph8zm344g.jpg

 

For some reason, some folds seem to have developed on the front since I added the collar stand. Any idea why?



#97 peterle

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Posted 27 July 2018 - 07:03 PM


 

For some reason, some folds seem to have developed on the front since I added the collar stand. Any idea why?

 

Did You care for proper wearing? There are no folds in #84, so it can´t be caused by  the collar. (Or did you resew it?)


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#98 benjaminh

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Posted 28 July 2018 - 10:23 AM

 

Did You care for proper wearing? There are no folds in #84, so it can´t be caused by  the collar. (Or did you resew it?)

 

Could explain "proper wearing"? I made sure to pin it properly, and I didn't think that my posture was unusual. The only thing I've done since #84 is resew the collar, with a shorter upper edge, and set it in deeper at the back as you advised, see #88. I guess it must be the resewn collar that has caused the folds. I also notice that the shirt is not laying as nicely on the shoulders. What about the new collar could have caused this?


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#99 peterle

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Posted 28 July 2018 - 07:35 PM

Proper wearing means that you care that especially the CB neck is at the right spot on your neck, i.e. wich is at the 7th vertebra. so simply care for that the shirt isn´t pulled downwards at the back. In the pics it seems You should pull the shirt downwards at the front. It´s hard to say, because you cut of the CB neck in your latest pics.

 

#88 pics are so blurry, I can´t see wether there is a fold at the left chest.

 

 The reason for Setting the back collar band lower was the bump at center back neck. In the #88 pics I can see it didn´t dissappear. You said it was from adding fabric. So setting lower is eventually not necessary.

In #84 everything seems ok, so moat peobably your last step is to blame for the folds.


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#100 posaune

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Posted 28 July 2018 - 07:45 PM

Benjaminh, it looks as if something pulls the front up. Please relase the back collar - let the front collar sewn on. Look if it is settling. I assume there will be an opening between bodice and collar. You have this to add to the bodice in stitching under a piece of fabric. If this is more than 1 cm you clip the at center back of collar and look if the collar wanders down and spread at clip.

lg

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#101 benjaminh

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Posted 31 July 2018 - 02:04 PM



Benjaminh, it looks as if something pulls the front up. Please relase the back collar - let the front collar sewn on. Look if it is settling. I assume there will be an opening between bodice and collar. You have this to add to the bodice in stitching under a piece of fabric. If this is more than 1 cm you clip the at center back of collar and look if the collar wanders down and spread at clip.

lg

posaune

 

I've released the back collar in the below photos. It definitely wanted to shift upward, and the folds were somewhat reduced. However, they are definitely still present. I can only think that it has something to do with the collar, since it wasn't like this in prior to this collar being added. The most noticeable point of the collar that seems to be under tension, or just not fitting, is the front half. The collar always seems to "bulge" away from the neck.

 

9f7zyajnqry4e944g.jpg

qk3teyjk2x823nk4g.jpg

1bd5w2v96ru4p2g4g.jpg

soonhxemfcqvuni4g.jpg



#102 posaune

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Posted 31 July 2018 - 11:25 PM

if you look from the side you see clearly the the front is pulled up. See bust line.

So the collar is too short and pulls it up. When you clipp the back at CB it will spread.

Have you measured your neck hole?

You take your measureband and walk it on the small edge around the seam (Not the seam allowance)

Note down the overlapp in front (if you have one) and then start the measurement. Note how much you need from CB to shoulder seam and do a notch at shoulder seam at the stand pattern.

I have attached a collar.pdf. it is a pattern for neck hole circ 40. (If you print it out the little rectangle is 20 cm, so you can calibrate your printer) The curving is done a 1/4 to 1/3 of 1/2 neck.

lg

posaune


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#103 greger

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Posted 01 August 2018 - 08:43 AM

Sometimes there can be a lot of fiddling, especially without someone right there to help. The directions have been good. Sometimes reading what others say can help clear up confusion because they explain it different. Some directions, such as for a coat, a bit different, but close enough to figure out can help. If it adds more confusion then stay with the original lessons. 

One method is to draw the pattern on paper and cut with enough room for adjustments. Pin this to center back. Someone else needs to do this. Pin on both sides of the shoulder so that the shoulder and back are sitting right. Another words, not pushing against the neck, nor standing away. And next is the front. Draw your new lines and that is your pattern. Now you can recalculate the pattern directions, If you want. In some perspectives this is similar to the string method mentioned above. Shirts and coats have different dynamics and achievement is persude differently. The stand is cut different as is the leaf for shaping. A coat collar is shaped with a hot heavy iron and water (steam). To wide seam allowances cause problems. I would aim for 1/4 inch. Larger will get in the way. The shoulder seam should end without going up the neck. Maybe half a stitch further.

Some tailors don't care about all the math because of all the variables, and for them fitting is faster, then the pattern is made. Some of these guys work by eye very quickly. A good education in pattern making is very handy, but some can grab ancient pattern methods with two-three measurements and make excellent garments. Different frames of mind can speed up the process. Beginners are tied to the pattern, because, that's all they got. Some experienced tailors look at the customer, see what they want, and the pattern doesn't matter much. Clothing is art.


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#104 benjaminh

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Posted 01 August 2018 - 10:02 AM

if you look from the side you see clearly the the front is pulled up. See bust line.

So the collar is too short and pulls it up. When you clipp the back at CB it will spread.

Have you measured your neck hole?

You take your measureband and walk it on the small edge around the seam (Not the seam allowance)

Note down the overlapp in front (if you have one) and then start the measurement. Note how much you need from CB to shoulder seam and do a notch at shoulder seam at the stand pattern.

I have attached a collar.pdf. it is a pattern for neck hole circ 40. (If you print it out the little rectangle is 20 cm, so you can calibrate your printer) The curving is done a 1/4 to 1/3 of 1/2 neck.

lg

posaune

 

 

I don't see a pdf attached. 

 

Your analysis of the collar pulling up the front was definitely correct. What I did today was rip the collar seam from the CF to close to the shoulder seam. The collar was then just attached at the shoulder seam, where I feel everything is correct. I then just played with the front of the collar to find where it would sit nicely. It seems that all the left side needs is the neckhole seam to be shifted up about 1/4" at CF. It then lies smoothly against the neck, and comes to be horizontal at CF as it should. 

I can't seem to get the right side to lay properly, and be horizontal at CF. When it is laying properly against the neck, the collar end (CF) is always angled downwards. Something wrong with the right side. I suppose I must rip the collar seam at the shoulder as well? Just thinking aloud here...



#105 benjaminh

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Posted 01 August 2018 - 01:44 PM

Here are some pictures to show:

qhd9xk3lldvidia4g.jpg

kpwccclidz2xx8z4g.jpg

jnir22ndpn21aqo4g.jpg

cr08isipy0jk8ui4g.jpg

acar85ii0ua3tyd4g.jpg

 

With collar unpinned:

88as9u1iq19mhah4g.jpg



#106 posaune

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Posted 01 August 2018 - 08:12 PM

http://www.mediafire...jaminh.png/file

http://www.mediafire...collar.pdf/file

 

I attach a pic. At pic you see that the center seam is not at center fo the neck. In front it is.  The right side is hanging - but the shoulderseams look equal in length.

Question: Did you equalize your neck hole. And what did you measure?

And I attach the forgotten collar.pdf

lg

posaune



#107 benjaminh

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Posted 02 August 2018 - 10:37 AM

http://www.mediafire...jaminh.png/file

http://www.mediafire...collar.pdf/file

 

I attach a pic. At pic you see that the center seam is not at center fo the neck. In front it is.  The right side is hanging - but the shoulderseams look equal in length.

Question: Did you equalize your neck hole. And what did you measure?

And I attach the forgotten collar.pdf

lg

posaune

 

Could you explain what you mean by the right side hanging?

 

With regards to equalising the neckhole, I just used the location of the string on the shoulder seam as my marks for "width," and then copied the curves from the left to the right side, lining them up at the back, front, and the marks I made on the shoulder seam. 



#108 benjaminh

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Posted 02 August 2018 - 10:54 AM

I just measured the horizontal distance (width) from CB to where the neckhole and the shoulder seam meet. It seems that the right side is 1cm less wide when compared to the left.






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