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Rundschau lounge coat drafts


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#19 Philip_AMS

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Posted 05 June 2012 - 07:57 AM

Line AD to G3 is a straight line and the chest waist are being measured from this line which makes no sense as the CF will never be straight. I used the below calculations for the draft adding 1.5cm to the front waist to get the measure 23.4cm. In the original draft calculations there chest width is only a few mm smaller but on mine its a difference of 1.2cm bigger than the front waist.

The other question I have is that when I draft the front and calculate the chest measure against the front waist measure on the calculation sheet is mentioned that the front waist is 1/4 UW + 1.5cm but when it is comes to it on the instructions is mentions the front waist is just 1/4 UW and not adding the 1.5cm so not sure if to be adding the extra 1.5cm. Obviously the waist measure is then affecting the point of the front neck shoulder point because it is the starting point for the it.

My next one is that when I calculate my front waist against my front chest width which are both affecting the front neck point my chest is 105.5 and waist is 87.5 so using the calculations the

With the 1.5cm added to the front waist i get a difference of 1.2cm
front waist will be 1/4UW + 1.5 = 23.4
front chest will be 2/10 OW + 3-4cm = 24.2cm (adding 3cm)

With the 1.5cm added to the front waist i get a difference of 1.2cm from front chest to front waist



front waist will be 1/4UW = 21.9
front chest will be 2/10 OW + 3-4cm = 24.2cm (adding 3cm)

Without the 1.5cm added to the front waist i get a difference of

Further confusion is that the line of point B and U and G5 is the CF line so I don't know how it can be that the correct as it won't be a straight line that i make at the front if the chest line extends more than the waist point as point G5 is made from squaring down at 90 degrees from U. It makes a bent line like in my draft.

Below draft is using the waist with 1.5cm added


#20 Schneidergott

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Posted 05 June 2012 - 03:47 PM

In every Rundschau book you will find the instruction that when the waist measure is smaller than the chest measure the CF will be a straight line.
FTR, that's what posaune was trying to tell you:

If your UW point is smaller (in the draft behind the OW point) than the calculated OW point you ignore this and draft a straight line at CF (OW = UW). If it is more you get a surplus which gives room for a belly.

It never ever goes inward (unless you do not read the instructions and waste your and other peoples time).
Any tapering is done with dart(s) or at the seams (front, side and, if you must, at the CB).

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#21 Philip_AMS

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Posted 05 June 2012 - 06:05 PM

These are the times when I wish I could read German :( thanks for everyone's help

#22 Terri

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Posted 05 June 2012 - 09:18 PM

So, what you now need to figure out is how to deal with your particular shape. If your waist is much smaller than standard, compared to your chest, where should the suppression be? Do you have a prominent chest? If so you may need a deeper front dart. Is your body wide across but narrow in profile? Is your upper back full and should more suppression happen there? All these require different manipulations once you get the basic draft figured out.

#23 Philip_AMS

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Posted 05 June 2012 - 09:56 PM

Are the manipulations discussed in the rundschau books or is this something the just comes with playing around with the proportions of the draft?

I must have a long way to go to breaking down the system to then fully understanding how it works.

I have just managed to find after many months of checking eBay a copy of the 16th edition book so I'm hoping that even though it's in German that I can get a good understanding from the drafts and the English translations on this site. So thanks to everyone that's taken the time to translate them it helps so much.

#24 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 22 January 2013 - 10:49 AM

Since you have 18cm difference which is a whooping 9cm undermeasurement, you need to go straight down from the chest point.
Chest width schould be 1/5 Bu. + 2cm, means you have 1.75cm ease in the chest. A bulge in front of the armhole is nasty.

Edited by Der Zuschneider, 23 January 2013 - 06:10 AM.

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