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Milla Jovovich in Tom Ford


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#1 Sator

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Posted 04 April 2011 - 12:50 AM

Milla Jovovich is best known for her roles in Resident Evil. These photos come from the Tom Ford store Opening in Beverly Hills on February 24, 2011.

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It's good to see tailored suits on the list of made-haves for the fashion conscious women's wardrobe.

#2 posaune

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Posted 04 April 2011 - 01:08 AM

Well, look at the waist dart placement and the ugly fly. (The trouser is cut very high)
But she is better looking in her suit as the guy besides her. Maybe he should try some high heels too? :Hypnotized:

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#3 Sator

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Posted 04 April 2011 - 01:20 AM

OK - next, how you can tell this isn't a bespoke garment.

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The most serious flaw is the failure (in every shot) of the coat to "sit into" the waist. There is a good German term for this - Schluss. It means "closure" in the sense of the coat sitting close to the waist, as though it were locked in. Instead the front doors seems to be wide open and left flapping in the breeze. Notice the way the vertical part of the check doesn't go straight up and down. The fronts of the coat fly open suggesting a serious balance problem that a bespoke tailor should never allow to go out of the doors uncorrected.

Next, look at the way the check is distorting on the trousers over her thighs. I think she has prominent hips and there is tightness here. These trousers are cut for a much more boyish figure.

I also don't like the way there are creases on her sleeve at the elbow. I like a very slim and fitted sleeve on women, but if taken too far, it will causes these unsightly creases. There should be a cleaner fall of the sleeves than this.

Notice the way her shoulders are a bit over extended. This can be a deliberate style feature, that would have worked better if the coat also sat into the waist with plenty of Schluss, because it tends to give you an exaggerated hourglass shape. However, by the looks of things, I don't think Jovovic needs this - she looks curvaceous enough. Note too the shoulders are dead square:

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The shoulder ends look like they are being lifted up by the pure bulk of the shoulder pads alone (she looks a little like an American football player). A more ideal bespoke shoulder construction is achieved with careful working up (using canvas and manipulation with the iron) to give the shoulder a slight concave line - like the Mona Lisa's smile. The results are more comfortable too as the ends of the coat shoulder don't rub annoyingly against your shoulder, as the concave line follows the shape of the natural shoulder line.

The pattern matching of the upper sleeve is also arguably less than ideal.

Finally, the styling is boring to my eye. It just looks like she has borrowed her husband's suit. Classic ladies' tailored suits show an enormous range of diversity and imagination. Just take a look at one of the classic Rundschau journal issues post in this forum and you'll see what I mean.

The moral of the story is this: ladies please learn to be picky. The problem is that if you read this forum too much you will never be able to wear ready-to-wear again. If you know what is good for you stop reading now!

#4 Sator

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Posted 04 April 2011 - 01:27 AM

Well, look at the waist dart placement


+ 1000

It is in the wrong place causing a horrible pattern distortion that is worse than amateurish. In fact, the way pattern matching has been handled on this coat is just terrible overall. A bespoke tailor would expect better even from a first time apprentice.

I should also mention that women's high end RTW coats are fused 99% of the time. For the non-tailors/sewers here that means that instead of it being shaped using a canvas that is lovingly worked up by hand using needle and iron to give the coat eloquent shape, a speed tailoring short cut is taken using glue. It's basically a mass produced glue job. If the pattern matching gives us an indication to the level of skill that went into the making overall, I would say this coat is almost certainly a glue job.

#5 Sator

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Posted 04 April 2011 - 01:31 AM

Maybe he should try some high heels too?


BTW do you think she could be wearing either medium heels or flats? I'd hate to think that the trouser hems are so long as to almost completely cover her high heels. The girl should show us her shoes!!!! - if she has a decent pair to show off, that is. :diablo:

#6 Schneidergott

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Posted 04 April 2011 - 01:57 AM

Have you noticed the button being on the right side of the coat, indicating a men's wear garment?

Maybe this whole outfit was indeed a man's suit that had been altered. Does explain the unusual darts and the terrible trouser fly.

"Nur der ist Meister seiner Kunst, der immer sucht, das Gute zu verbessern und niemals glaubt, das Beste schon zu haben."
"Only he is a master of his art who always seeks to improve the good and never believes to have the best already"

http://www.dressedwell.net/ It's snarky, but fun.


#7 Sator

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Posted 04 April 2011 - 02:09 AM

Here is how a coat with good pattern matching should look:

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The things to note are:

1. The way the front dart is placed so that it doesn't disrupt the check.
2. The way the check on the pocket flap matches the pattern on the coat fronts
3. The check runs parallel to the edge of the lapels
4. The check matches at the top of the sleeve

Let's look a little more carefully at the pattern matching problems on the Tom Form coat:

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Notice that the pattern on the side pocket flaps don't match the pattern on the coat, and the front dart causes major disruption to the check on the fronts.

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The pattern matching of the sleeve is terrible. The pattern doesn't even come near to running parallel to the lapel edge. Not even close!

For those non-sewers amongst you reading, let nobody say that this is nitpicking. These are very basic errors that should never have been allowed to happen.

#8 Sator

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Posted 04 April 2011 - 02:15 AM

Have you noticed the button being on the right side of the coat, indicating a men's wear garment?

Maybe this whole outfit was indeed a man's suit that had been altered. Does explain the unusual darts and the terrible trouser fly.


I wish!

I saw a bit of TF in New York. Ford's menswear is made by Zegna who are good enough that they don't make such terrible mistakes with pattern matching. Also not even Ford's men's stuff has tight 3/4 sleeves or that funny narrow collar bizarrely mismatched to the really wide lapels.

I've noticed that there are tonnes of horribly made up cheap "tailored" junk for women out there. I see it in the shops every day. I don't know why they drop their standards so much for women's wear. I thought women were meant to be the picky ones???

#9 Sator

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Posted 04 April 2011 - 02:33 AM

Found Jovovich's suit in the current TF collection:

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It can be found here:

http://www.tomford.c...&styleNumber=14

So it's definitely meant to be a woman's garment. The one on his website has better pattern matching at the shoulder and doesn't have the problem at the fly.

ADDIT: just realised that Jovovich has pulled her coat sleeves up. Ladies: on a quality coat please don't do this. If you like 3/4 length sleeves have your tailor cut them that way!

#10 eboli

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Posted 04 April 2011 - 04:22 AM

Ford's menswear is made by Zegna


Are you sure? :LMAO:
www.barbaraboll.com

#11 eboli

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Posted 04 April 2011 - 04:24 AM

Have you noticed the button being on the right side of the coat, indicating a men's wear garment?


Tradition ist Schlamperei. :Batting Eyelashes: I don't know who was the first to put the buttons for women's gear on the left side, but I consider it nonsense. The majority of women are righthanded, so it's much more comfortable to have the buttons on the right and the trouser fly on the left. I have all my closures done on the "male" side. Perhaps a first sign of pickiness.....

Edited by eboli, 04 April 2011 - 04:27 AM.

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#12 Schneidergott

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Posted 04 April 2011 - 05:04 AM

Tom Ford coats (I saw some in a men's store in Hamburg) are generally cut very tight, one might say too tight. Some might refer to them as having "open quarters"! :crazy:

AFAIK, the buttons for women on the left stem from the ages when (noble and/ or rich) women had a valet to dress them up.
Perhaps they never changed the buttoning because they enjoyed getting undressed by their partners? :drool:
BTW, does it really matter where the buttons are for un-buttoning? There is a reason why men have their fly open to the right side, but I won't tell. :Big Grin:

I find it hard to see the inspiration for his new line. The 30's or the 80's? Gee, I hope they do not bring the "Denver Clan" (Dynasty) back (with the original cast... :shock: )!

"Nur der ist Meister seiner Kunst, der immer sucht, das Gute zu verbessern und niemals glaubt, das Beste schon zu haben."
"Only he is a master of his art who always seeks to improve the good and never believes to have the best already"

http://www.dressedwell.net/ It's snarky, but fun.


#13 eboli

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Posted 04 April 2011 - 05:06 AM

just realised that Jovovich has pulled her coat sleeves up. Ladies: on a quality coat please don't do this. If you like 3/4 length sleeves have your tailor cut them that way!


The whole suit is a rather 1970/80-ish, hence the exagggerated shoulders and the pulled up sleeves. Remember Miami Vice?

High heels back then of course were not as high as today. When they're worn under a pair of overlong trousers I'm not sure if I'm supposed to think foal's legs or Alfred Kubin's Krieg. But I know for sure that you cannot walk in those thingies. In my opinion there are only two occasions you can wear them reasonably: when you make a short appearance at the opera, at a reception etc. and are seated immediately after, or for one of those special moments with your lover. :Big Grin:

Edited by eboli, 04 April 2011 - 05:21 AM.

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#14 eboli

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Posted 04 April 2011 - 05:18 AM

Perhaps they never changed the buttoning because they enjoyed getting undressed by their partners? :drool:


Good point!!

BTW, does it really matter where the buttons are for un-buttoning? There is a reason why men have their fly open to the right side, but I won't tell. :Big Grin:


Well, you don't mean that self-assuring grip by which you can control that everything's still there? :Whistle: Honestly, I'm quite irritated when I put on/off some RTW trousers, because then I have to nip round the corner. Must go for a valet, I think.
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#15 Sator

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Posted 04 April 2011 - 10:10 AM

Are you sure? :LMAO:


Yes, I'm sure:

http://ss11.zegna.co...press/tf_en.pdf

TOM FORD ANNOUNCES PARTNERSHIP WITH ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA GROUP
TO PRODUCE AND DISTRIBUTE MENSWEAR, ACCESSORIES AND FOOTWEAR

Milan, Italy, February 27, 2006 - TOM FORD announced today a licensing agreement with
Ermenegildo Zegna Group, a global leader in fine menswear, for the production and
worldwide distribution of luxury men’s ready to wear and made to measure clothing, footwear
and accessories under the TOM FORD label.

Tom Ford, President and Chief Executive Officer commented, “I am very excited to partner
with Zegna on the production of my menswear collection. I have tremendous respect for
Ermenegildo Zegna and his company. We have worked together for many years and the level
of expertise and craftsmanship that Zegna produces is outstanding...”

Domenico De Sole, Chairman of TOM FORD said, “I’ve known and worked with Ermenegildo
Zegna for over 15 years. Zegna is a superb company which produces the highest quality
menswear and accessories with attention to detail that is second to none. This agreement
with Zegna is perfect for the TOM FORD brand and will ensure its place as the first true luxury
brand of the 21st century.”

Ermenegildo Zegna, Chief Executive Officer of Zegna Group stated, “This is a new and
exciting challenge for us. The long time relationship with Tom and Domenico is the key
ingredient in making this venture together a successful one...

The alliance with Zegna Group is the third venture since Ford and De Sole announced the
launch of the TOM FORD brand last year.


I don't know who makes the ladies' stuff though.

#16 Sator

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Posted 04 April 2011 - 10:44 AM

Must go for a valet, I think.


This is how it's classically done:

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#17 Schneidergott

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Posted 04 April 2011 - 03:07 PM

This is how it's classically done:

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Wait a second, according to legend Amazons had one of the breasts cut off so to not interfere with their bows...

Well, you don't mean that self-assuring grip by which you can control that everything's still there? :Whistle:


Apparently, the majority of men here in Europe are right handed, which means that their "best friend" swings to the left (Linksträger)! Women are unidirectional, hence the closures in places men would not want them in their garments.
And about that re-assuring grip: In my line of work I've met quite a number of men who might have had trouble doing that. Too much body in the way. :Big Grin:

Besides, I think it's the equivalent to women adjusting their cleavage... :give_rose:

That model wearing the POW suit has a more boyish figure and the jacket and trousers don't have such a tight fit. Which makes me believe that Milla's suit has been poorly altered. Seriously, who is sewing a trouser front like that?

"Nur der ist Meister seiner Kunst, der immer sucht, das Gute zu verbessern und niemals glaubt, das Beste schon zu haben."
"Only he is a master of his art who always seeks to improve the good and never believes to have the best already"

http://www.dressedwell.net/ It's snarky, but fun.


#18 Lewis Davies

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Posted 04 April 2011 - 06:28 PM

having worked at harrods many years ago where tom ford mens is stocked none of it is bespoke
lets stop calling it bespoke bedcause it clearly isnt.
its altered to fit which isnt even made to measure quality
its a terrible suit completly copying the nutter and sexton but failing in all aspects of using her figure to her advantage
-10/10




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