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The Best and Worst of NOW


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#19 Sator

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Posted 26 September 2011 - 05:07 PM

Here is a more typical example of what is seen on the runway:

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Apparently these are called "boyfriend blazers". The term refers to the fact that it is too big and doesn't fit, but this is passed off as looking "cute" because it looks like she borrowed her boyfriend's coat.

It's funny because once female clients in their "boyfriend blazers" get to a bespoke tailor/shirtmaker they are suddenly bothered by every hint of a slight crease. They start to drive the tailor nuts by complaining about every little wrinkle - imaginary or otherwise!

However, when it is a runway garment these drags are considered "cute":

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#20 Sator

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Posted 26 September 2011 - 05:40 PM

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Has anyone else noticed that ladies' coat these days don't usually have visible darts at the front any more? They don't even have an extended front dart going down the front to the hem or up to the shoulder like these:

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I have come across female clients who violently protested against any darts that go up to the shoulder or which run down the front to the hem. I think Albina once said that these are out of fashion in women's tailoring and these pictures certainly confirm it. It used to be that all sorts of fancy darts were normal in women's tailoring but now women expect a more masculine style of "boyfriend coat" with well concealed seams, like on men's coats. They simply won't let you put these visible seams in any more.

It used to be only men who complained about the front dart being extended down the fronts like this:

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But now the fashion has caught on with women.

#21 posaune

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Posted 26 September 2011 - 11:58 PM

ladies' coat these days don't usually have visible darts at the front any more

How true! Even womens in a size 46 (bust 100cm) fight the ordinary bust dart. The dart coming from the shoulder is an absolutely "No" for them. (But it allows the best fit)
Maybe that is the result from the '80. The cut was then: Big armholes and overcut shoulders with big shoulder pads much ease in the upper body - no darts.
When slowly a more body shaped look came back - part of the sense for fit was lost. And with the new stretch fabric.............

lg
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#22 Schneidergott

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Posted 27 September 2011 - 01:54 AM

Usually female models have straight, bony shoulders and this one has not, so it could also be that they had to change the models wearing this.

Very unusual is that there is only one side seam, hence those drags under the arms. Some of the folds along the diagonal darts are the result of improper sewing the bits together. Whoever designed/ drafted this took out too much at the waist.

And yet again I don't think it matters to the people attending the shows, it's not about the fit but the response they get for their design ideas. I'm pretty sure that many garments get altered (pattern, fit or even style elements before they finally hit the shops or even get canceled.

If only to fool the copyists from Asia. :spiteful:





"Nur der ist Meister seiner Kunst, der immer sucht, das Gute zu verbessern und niemals glaubt, das Beste schon zu haben."
"Only he is a master of his art who always seeks to improve the good and never believes to have the best already"

 


#23 Sator

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Posted 27 September 2011 - 11:10 AM

ladies' coat these days don't usually have visible darts at the front any more

How true! Even womens in a size 46 (bust 100cm) fight the ordinary bust dart. The dart coming from the shoulder is an absolutely "No" for them. (But it allows the best fit)
Maybe that is the result from the '80. The cut was then: Big armholes and overcut shoulders with big shoulder pads much ease in the upper body - no darts.
When slowly a more body shaped look came back - part of the sense for fit was lost. And with the new stretch fabric.............

lg
posaune


Yes, it's obviously not just me, but a worldwide trend. You have to educate women that if they want that 1950s type of corseted look, that they need the extra darts:

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However, the trend towards a more masculine women's tailoring style is very ancient. This comes from Thomas H. Holding, 1897:

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It is interesting that at the dawn of the women's rights movement, there was a fashion trend to ladies going to their menfolk's tailors to have more masculine styled coats made up, and that women hated styles and names that were too feminine. This trend continued into the 1920s with the boyish silhouette. Here is Marlene Dietrich (?1930-40s) in a deliberately masculine suit:

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The "boyfriend blazer" thing today is just a continuation of this.

But women have to know that they have to choose between a masculine and boxy sort of 1980s "boyfriend jacket" or a more fitted and feminine look. If you want a fitted look, "a cut that makes you look slimmer", then you need those seams.

#24 Sator

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Posted 27 September 2011 - 03:23 PM

More white from Rachel Zoe featured in Elle:

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All seems well but the camera trick used is that the model on the right's hair seems to be hiding some ugly drags at the armscye:

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#25 Sator

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Posted 27 September 2011 - 06:26 PM

Another runway potato sack:

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More drags around the armscye:

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Both from DKNY in Vogue: http://vogue.tumblr.com/page/9

#26 posaune

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Posted 28 September 2011 - 07:22 AM

I can understand that women do not want the age of Dior back. Because that was a real pain in the a... to wear the things that built the requested shape. But I do not think that a garment without darts would be pleasing for a lady, especially with the "Anitbabypille" around. It gives the ladies hormones - speak curves - which cries for darts!
lg posaune

#27 tailoress

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Posted 08 October 2011 - 10:40 PM

I'm not normally a fan of Gucci but I thought they had a couple of nice coats in their A/W collection (although I am a sucker for 70s style) - Posted Image
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#28 Sator

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Posted 11 October 2011 - 10:36 AM

A typical contemporary so-called "boyfriend jacket" look:

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The coat is cut along masculine lines, a little boxy to make it look like she has borrowed it off her boyfriend.




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