From Page 154
In a rather classical style, but without a shoulder blade fold, this shirt is quite close to the body; yet it having the necessary ease in the back.
Chest – 50
Scye Depth – 23 ½ (scye depth is a calculated measurement: ¼ chest + ¼ waist length (see page 154 of Intermode 1973-1974). it also can be measured from the neck point to a strip of folded paper which is clamped under the arm in the highest possible position and folded horizontally to centre back. (Actual scye depth will be 2cm lower(W....O).)
Waist length: – 44 ½ (calculation formula: 1/4 height)
Length: – 80
Back Width: – 20 ½ (formula: 1/4 chest + 8cm front)
Chest Width: – 20 (formula: 1/2 chest – 5cm)
Neck: – 41
Sleeve length – 60 (outer length of from armhole seam to wrist)
Fig. 6 Drafts of Back and Front parts
A...A1 = 1/6 the Neck + ½ cm (In this case 7 ¼ cm)
A...W = 1/3 of A...A1
W...O = Scye Depth + 2 cm (25 ½ cm)
W...T = Waist length + 2 cm (46 ½ cm)
W...L = Length (80 cm)
O...O1 = Back Width + 2 cm (22 ½ cm)
A3 = vertical from O1
A3...S = 1/5 of A3...O1 — 1 cm (4 ½ cm)
A1...A2 = 1 cm (Shoulder line from A2 Across, Passing S)
S...S1 = 2 cm
01...02 = ¼ of the Chest Width (12 ½ cm)
A4 = vertical from O2, 2 cm lower than A3
O2...O3 = Chest Width + ½ cm (20 ½ cm)
A6...L2 = vertical to O3
A6...C = same amount as A...A1 (Draw a circle with centre point A6)
A7 = 1 cm beyond the circle line
C1 = ½ cm below the circle line.
The entire neck seam (W...A1 + A7...C1) should almost be the Neck width of 41 cm. At the same time any occurring difference has to be eliminated by adjusting the height of A7.
A7...S2 = Same width as A2…S1
O2...S2 = O1 S1 – 2 cm
Side Seam: O4 lies 1 cm in front of the middle of O1...O2. Draw a vertical midline; remove 1,5cm at waist depth narrowing into the hem. (I.e.: shape the actual side seam lines, hollowing 1,5cm on both sides at the waistline and tapering to 0cm at the hemline.)
Front Edge (overlap) extends 2cm from centre front line.
Yoke: the yoke seam is measured down: 3 cm from A7 and S2: 5 cm from S1: 6 cm from W: The shoulder blade dart (A1...A2) is vertical and tapering to the yoke seam, and will be folded/pinched away.
Drawing upper right corner: To form the yoke join the shoulder lines A2..S1 and A7...S2. The back yoke seam curves out ½ cm between the arm scye and the folded dart line. Hollow both front yoke seams ½ cm at the first third.
Fig. 7 The sleeve
K...P = Centre line: outer sleeve length minus 7 cm cuff width (at P: square out to both sides)
K lies in the middle between S1 and S2 at the armscye of the pattern.
K...m = half height of O4...K of the armscye (square line)
K...U7 rear armhole circumference from S1…O4
K...U6 front armhole circumference from S2…O4
Sleeve Cap: in the rear the upper third curves out 2 cm, in the front lower third a 1 cm hollow.
P...P6 and P...P7: 15 cm each (straight seam lines to U6 and U7)
The Rear Slit lies 6 cm inside P7 and is 10 cm long.
Left and right of the slit are lying with each 2 cm distance and each 2 cm deep folds. The cuff is 26 cm long and 7 cm wide.
Fig. 8 back, front and Yoke (Göller)
Not only the contour of the sides seams but also the contour of the yoke seams of the pattern pieces have to match exactly.
Fig. 8 to 11: The Collar
It can be worked with a separate stand or as a one-piece collar. In the latter case though there is a condition, that the rear collar width (K2... K4) is ½ cm higher than the collar stand (W...K2)
Fig. 8: the Collar Stand
A...C = half collar width (20 ½ cm)
C...C1 = ½ cm
C...3 = 3 cm
A...W = 1 ½ cm
W...K2 = 3 ½ cm
C1...C2 = 2 ½ cm, right angle to the line 3...C1
Extension of the collar stand seam C1: 2cm, (it’s the same amount that the front edge extends past the centre front CF)
Fig. 9: The One Piece Collar
K2...K4 = 4 cm (= ½ cm more than W...K2)
C5 = ca. 4 cm outside C1
C5...K5 = ca. 10 cm
Fig. 10: Preparation for the two piece collar
Here K2…K4 is more than ½ cm wider than the collar foot (stand);
Therefore the outer edge of the collar would be too short compared to a one-piece collar. Parallel to CB, K2...K4, lines are drawn 3 cm apart.
Fig. 11: Collar with a separate stand
After the collar fold line is cut off (line K2...C2), the three lines are slashed to the collar fold line, and opened at the outer edge by about a third each of the missing amount (Total extension: the amount, that K2...K4 is wider than W...K2).
With all Cutting Diagrams:
Seam Allowances MUST be Added
Edited by Schneiderfrei, 19 September 2015 - 10:55 PM.