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Shirt Draft - Unicut 1975

Shirt Draft Unicut 1974

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#19 Schneiderfrei

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Posted 26 September 2015 - 11:22 PM

Thanks terri and peterle,

 

I think it is very important for us beginners to clarify these things before charging at it.


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#20 Che Pasticcio

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Posted 30 September 2015 - 06:00 AM

Couldn't the draft have just made A1-S1 agree with S2-A7 and not require a paper pivot from A2 to A1? I'm conflicted now though, because I see how this method allows certainty in the smoothness of the armscye curve pre-pivot. I've come across patterns where the yoke and back aren't touching in the draft stage, only to ind some what of a > or < where the seams meet when sampling it.


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#21 Schneiderfrei

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Posted 30 September 2015 - 09:10 AM

The reason I thought the A1 - A2 would be pinched away in the cloth is for the accommodation of striped patterns. 


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#22 greger

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Posted 30 September 2015 - 01:49 PM

Couldn't the draft have just made A1-S1 agree with S2-A7 and not require a paper pivot from A2 to A1? I'm conflicted now though, because I see how this method allows certainty in the smoothness of the armscye curve pre-pivot. I've come across patterns where the yoke and back aren't touching in the draft stage, only to ind some what of a > or < where the seams meet when sampling it.


Clothes are 3-D. Not 2-D.

#23 peterle

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Posted 30 September 2015 - 07:15 PM

The dart A1-A2 is to create room for the shoulder blades and will move the rear armhole closer to the body. It´s just like a bust dart in women´s clothing, wich is also always drawn vertical first but rotated to a different position in a second step.Pinching the paper pattern is just transferring this dart to the yoke seam/ making it horizontal and make it disappear in the yoke seam.

 

Dart manipulation is most fundamental in pattern making so everybody should be aware of it´s principles:

Basic dart manipulation is described here: http://thecuttingcla...nd-spread-darts

A bit of dart theory can be found here:http://www.cutterand...l=+dart +theory



#24 Learner

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Posted 30 September 2015 - 11:30 PM

Couldn't the draft have just made A1-S1 agree with S2-A7 and not require a paper pivot from A2 to A1? I'm conflicted now though, because I see how this method allows certainty in the smoothness of the armscye curve pre-pivot. I've come across patterns where the yoke and back aren't touching in the draft stage, only to ind some what of a > or < where the seams meet when sampling it.

 

If you download the PDFs, you'll see that the basic foundation structure appears over and over again - this is why the system is called "Unicut" - the cutting lines for a particular garment are overlaid on a uniform foundation block. 

 

A1 sets the back neck width, O1 sets the back width, A3 is vertical from O1 and horizontal from A1, S is derived from A3, A2 is derived from A1, and then A2 to S defines the shoulder slope.

 

In this particular draft, a shoulder dart is pinched between A1 and A2, and eliminated at the pattern stage.  In some of the other drafts, the dart is positioned elsewhere and remains in the pattern, but the basic foundation block on which the pattern is constructed remains the same.

 

If you download the 71-72 PDF from http://www.intermode.org/, there's an article about the Unicut system on pages 25 - 28.



#25 Che Pasticcio

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Posted 30 September 2015 - 11:34 PM

Thanks, Learner. I'll check it out soon.



#26 tarcisio

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Posted 01 October 2015 - 10:36 AM

Doesn't make sense shoulder darts when you draw a female diagram?


Edited by tarcisio, 01 October 2015 - 10:36 AM.


#27 posaune

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Posted 01 October 2015 - 11:31 PM

As men have shoulderblades and rounded backs as well as women shoulderdarts makes sense for both.
In the classical tailoring the shoulder darts for men are done with the iron. Not possible for shirts.
lg
posaune

#28 napoli

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Posted 22 October 2015 - 04:34 AM

Interesting to study.

 

Thanks



#29 OJD

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Posted 22 October 2015 - 05:55 AM

The sleeve looks good. Like an old spanish shirt drafting book I like a lot. Also like the reasoning of the extension of the collar edge.

#30 OJD

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Posted 25 October 2015 - 10:24 PM

Criticism: the slant of the front shoulder is unspecified from what I can see? I used A3-S at A4-to shoulderline.

I don't agree that the back to yoke seam have to be identical in shape. A 0.5 cm rounding of the yoke turns into a 1 cm hump if you do. The subject have to have very prominent blades imo for that to look good. As long as the seams have the same length it should be alright.

#31 peterle

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Posted 26 October 2015 - 02:19 AM

Criticism: the slant of the front shoulder is unspecified from what I can see? I used A3-S at A4-to shoulderline.

 

O2...S2 = O1...S1 minus 2 cm.



#32 OJD

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Posted 26 October 2015 - 02:47 AM

O2...S2 = O1...S1 minus 2 cm.


Ah. GOod.

#33 R.m.Bakker

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Posted 28 October 2015 - 09:21 AM

I might actually make this up this week, yoke looks interesting. Might not use everything and just combine my own system with this one. Got a few shirts to cut for myself so I can experiment.


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http://www.rubenbakker.nl


#34 Schneiderfrei

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Posted 28 October 2015 - 12:02 PM

Sounds good. Love to see the result. :)


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#35 OJD

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Posted 28 October 2015 - 10:16 PM

I tried it already. Hard to get a nice pattern match at the yoke/front seam if you go for a split yoke. Hard to get a good pattern match at the back/yoke seam if you go for a onepiece yoke. It is in theory a nice draft. I like the idea of the curved front/yoke seam but havent needed it before, always used a straight line=beautiful pattern with split yoke.
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#36 HautenDandy

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Posted 09 September 2016 - 02:26 AM

Any one had any success with this yet? I favor drafting the yoke separately. I dont have much love for the transferring of the yoke on this and the Rundschau, trueing the armscye isnt difficult, unless perhaps, Im missing something?







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