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Wanted. Pre-1950s copies of the Tailor & Cutter


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#1 Alex Hills

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Posted 20 April 2017 - 08:57 AM

Hello there.

Im interested in buying in anything published by the tailor and cutter before 1950. Not necessarily after hard copies. If you have digitised versions I'd be happy pay a fee for a copy.

Ive just done 4 years training as a coat maker and now I'm starting a cutting apprenticeship. Early 20th century menswear is a real passion of mine so any literature you can spare would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

#2 jeffrey2117

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Posted 20 April 2017 - 09:58 AM

Hello there.

Im interested in buying in anything published by the tailor and cutter before 1950. Not necessarily after hard copies. If you have digitised versions I'd be happy pay a fee for a copy.

Ive just done 4 years training as a coat maker and now I'm starting a cutting apprenticeship. Early 20th century menswear is a real passion of mine so any literature you can spare would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

Hello Alex,

 

    Best to use more modern drafts and modify with style features from earlier times for best fitting results. 

 

Many of the old drafts had issues or you have to make quite a few changes to fit modern proportions.

 

Regrds

 

Jeffrey2117


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#3 Schneiderfrei

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Posted 20 April 2017 - 01:35 PM

I expect you have scoured these fora for the numerous old T and C drafts.

 

Also, I expect you want to also use the old drafts to study the development of cutting over the years.

 

i suspect that Jeffrey 2117 is quite correct about the quality of the drafts from those older days. My experience of the shirt drafts has shown me that his words are correct.

 

G


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#4 greger

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Posted 20 April 2017 - 06:41 PM

Perhaps Alex has nother reason for them. A cutting apprenticeship is what he is stepping into. Besides, there is more to those old journals than patterns. How people thought back then is useful knowledge. What was popular back then, some has not come back, and some,  maybe never will. Take for example the Norfolk style, how many variations are there? How many haven't been invented yet? These variations can be adapted to modern cutting systems. Then, if someone wants a cut from the past the present cut is not going to work. Some of these TV shows today,  of the past, some customers want to wear clothes like that. Using a modern cut is failure. Throwing out the past is, in my opinion, failure. If you are going to make clothes for the movie, theater, commercials, etc. you need a large collection of knowledge. After all, part of his apprenticeship of coat making may have included older coats, and it would be nice to have pattern systems for that knowledge and skill that he learned. Some of my lessons has been,  not be corralled by herd mentality, so, think outside of the box. The "modern" coats are rather limited. The newest cutting systems on this website are already outdated. His up coming apprenticeship will probably have the latest systems. Jumping the gun as to why he wants these older issues.... 


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#5 jeffrey2117

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Posted 20 April 2017 - 10:21 PM

Perhaps Alex has nother reason for them. A cutting apprenticeship is what he is stepping into. Besides, there is more to those old journals than patterns. How people thought back then is useful knowledge. What was popular back then, some has not come back, and some,  maybe never will. Take for example the Norfolk style, how many variations are there? How many haven't been invented yet? These variations can be adapted to modern cutting systems. Then, if someone wants a cut from the past the present cut is not going to work. Some of these TV shows today,  of the past, some customers want to wear clothes like that. Using a modern cut is failure. Throwing out the past is, in my opinion, failure. If you are going to make clothes for the movie, theater, commercials, etc. you need a large collection of knowledge. After all, part of his apprenticeship of coat making may have included older coats, and it would be nice to have pattern systems for that knowledge and skill that he learned. Some of my lessons has been,  not be corralled by herd mentality, so, think outside of the box. The "modern" coats are rather limited. The newest cutting systems on this website are already outdated. His up coming apprenticeship will probably have the latest systems. Jumping the gun as to why he wants these older issues.... 

Hello Greger,

 

    I still retain older cutting books such as Regal's, because they would  include corrections and diagrams for many issues that were often seen during those times.  Bow leg, knock knee, square shoulders, bowed back, low shoulder, erect posture stance, etc..  You may also see diagrams for popular pocketing or how to apply action pleats, etc..

 

Regard

 

Jeffrey2117


"An intelligent man knows he is ignorant, a ignorant man knows he is intelligent".

#6 Pam D

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Posted 02 May 2017 - 07:38 AM

Hi Alex

 

I have some old copies of T and C. The oldest dates from 1881, but mainly they are from 1914 and 1915.

I need to date order them but there must be about 12 or so.

If you are interested let me know and I will provide a detailed list.

You mention being  a coat maker I have a copy of T and C's book 'Reliable Coat System' if you are interested.



#7 Alex Hills

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Posted 08 May 2017 - 03:26 AM

Greger Nailed it.

I consider myself an amateur fashion historian too, so I find the articles on the trade in general of great interest too.




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