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Do You Have Any Tailoring- or Construction-Related Goals for 2016?

Construction Goals Delusions Techniques

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#19 Henry Hall

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Posted 06 January 2016 - 08:34 PM

That's the one. The long white one with multi-coloured stripes is crazy! Clearly it wasn't all dark clothing in the 1920s.


"Luxury must be comfortable, otherwise it is not luxury." - Coco Chanel.


#20 tombennett

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Posted 07 January 2016 - 04:55 AM



 

Thanks a lot.  I have an old, first-generation DSLR that someone gave me.  I always mean to work through the manual, but then have a compelling need to lie down.  I don't mind reading technical material, but there's SO much of it.  An old boyfriend who's a photographer told me a few years ago how I could control the light by taping white paper to cereal boxes and placing them around the subject; I assume that was a primitive, DIY softbox.  There's a library from which I could borrow some umbrellas and other equipment, but I've been busy and would have to research their use.  

 

Any old DSLR will do, unless your lens is has MACRO stamped on it plus 1:1 then it isn't a macro lens; it probably isn't. I would suggest buying some cheapish close-up filters which screw onto the end of the lens, this will be cheaper than buying a dedicated macro lens.  As I say it all depends on what you want to do with the end photographs, to show to people for appraisal of your work then this is the best option.  If you want to make professional images you will need to realise that the close-up filters will create a distortion vignette around the edges, a bit like a fisheye lens.  If you are creating marketing material I would recommend buying a MACRO lens, one can pick up some great bargains on eBay; just be very, very careful.

 

Yes, taping any bright surface to reflect light will brighten the subject, remember, as with coloured gels over a light the colour of the paper/material will throw a cast of that colour onto your scene.  Of course this could be a great effect if you are creating an arty image.  The paper acts as a light defuser to give, as you say a soft-box effect.  I often place my subjects in the window with the net curtains shut, this offers a very powerful diffused light; providing the sun is playing ball.  You can then create your paper reflectors and arrange them as desired. A general lighting setup is to have a stereo setup at the front and, a third light behind creating a back light in order to remove any nasty shadows produced by the front pair while generating some depth of field (DoF) and separation from the background.  Again it is all down to what you want to do with the final photographs.  What do you want the photographs for, if you don't mind me asking?

 

You could set the camera so that certain functions are automatic leaving only the DoF to think about, giving you a "correct" exposure every shot but that is just what is known as a correct exposure according to the person who programmed the camera.  Depth of Field is a vey easy concept, it is how much of the image is in focus juxtaposed with that which is blurred.  DoF can be controlled by these main factors: aperture size, the "f" number denoted by f/5.6 or, f/16 etc + distance between the camera and subject + the distance from subject to background + focal length of the lens 24mm, 50mm, etc + shutter speed = Depth of Field.

 

Basically, if you want a feature, for example a buttonhole to stand out against the background cloth you might want a shallow DoF to throw the cloth out of focus bringing the feature into sharp relief.  A shallow depth of field is created by setting the widest aperture you can find on your lens, probably f/4-f/5.6 variable, together with some distance between the camera and buttonhole.  You would also need one of the most important bits of kit to create a perfect image, a tripod as the shutter speed is going to be quite slow to allow enough light in to the sensor.

 

I put my camera onto aperture priority mode and then changed the size of the hole through the lens, on a canon this is "AV" and on Nikon it is "A".  With this setting all you need to bother about is the amount of sharpness before and after the focal point, the low the f/number the wider the aperture and the shallower DoF couple this with a long focal length and you can get quite good results.  You will notice that as the f/stop increases so the image becomes sharper across the frame, f/stop is the name given to the aperture setting.

 

f/4

buttonhole%201%20of%203_zpsfogt1hby.jpg

 

f/11

buttonhole%202%20of%203_zpsb4xwu7xe.jpg

 

f/22

buttonhole%203%20of%203_zps2g7aogec.jpg

 

For lighting I used the LED spot light on my sewing machine to side light the scene. I then used the camera's in-built flash to fill in the light at the front to highlight the buttonhole.  I could have reduced the exposure compensation slightly to stop the white basting thread from blowing out a little but for a demo, not bad.  Again it all depends on what you want the image for.

 

tom.

 

Forgot to say, this isn't a macro lens, just a normal 24-105mm 1:4 lens.


Edited by tombennett, 07 January 2016 - 08:14 PM.

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#21 tailleuse

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Posted 07 January 2016 - 05:17 AM

 

Do You mean this colour change:

edit%20hbc_1.jpg

These are made from a hudson bay blankets. these blankets can be ordered today also. I like the white ones with the green/red/black/yellow stripes.

Here are some nice blanket coats jackets: http://vintagehaberd...g/blanket-coat/

 

One day I'd like to make one from the red blanket with the back stripe. I looked on line for used blankets but didn't come up with much.


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#22 tailleuse

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Posted 07 January 2016 - 05:22 AM

 

  Again it is all down to what you want to do with the final photographs.  What do you want the photographs for, if you don't mind me asking?

 

 

 

Tom,

 

Thank you for this detailed reply, which I will save and read with care. I thought it would be good to have a purpose to frame learning how to use my camera. I was thinking of taking photos to post on a blog or here.

 

Tailleuse


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#23 Henry Hall

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Posted 07 January 2016 - 06:04 AM

Nice buttonhole Tom.


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"Luxury must be comfortable, otherwise it is not luxury." - Coco Chanel.


#24 Schneiderfrei

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Posted 07 January 2016 - 07:45 AM

Well, my goals. . . .

 

Finish a couple of linen trousers before the summer ends.  I have been working through the ABC des Schneiderhandwerks: Die Einfach Lange Hose. This has been slowed down by Christmas and other nuisances (like translating it).

 

Improve my performance in small details; button holes especially.  And yet again, I would like to have a solid mental map of the entire ABC Hose, so I wouldn't be pausing so much.

 

Get back to shirts - I would like to try out that Unicut shirt.

 

I need a new waistcoat.  Redoing everything I thought I knew about that would be good. Like I have done with shirts 2014 and trousers 2015.

 

I have ordered some more of Der praktische Zuschnitt, Heft 6 u 9.  When they arrive there will be some more translating to do.

 

 

All my photos are done on an old 5 mp panasonic lumix, even then I have to reduce the file size to get it online.

 

Love your flickr page Tom.


Edited by Schneiderfrei, 07 January 2016 - 07:52 AM.

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#25 tombennett

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Posted 07 January 2016 - 08:05 AM

Thanks Chaps.

 

Tailleuse if you want any tips message me anytime.

 

tom.


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#26 tailleuse

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Posted 07 January 2016 - 08:26 AM

Thanks Chaps.

 

Tailleuse if you want any tips message me anytime.

 

tom.

 

Thanks a lot. I may take you up on that. :)


Dignity. Always, dignity. (Singin' in the Rain)


#27 Zandercook

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Posted 25 January 2016 - 12:11 AM

I need to learn to do collars on coats and jackets, the knack of them has rather alluded me so far. Also perfect lining a jacket and coat. 

 

I'm also working on my shirt making skills. If I can get that down to a tee, then the tailors I work at will be the only one between Manchester and Chester that offers that, not to mention only one of 4 in the North West (as far as I can tell). If anyone has some advice on this that'd be grand! 


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#28 hutch48

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Posted 27 January 2016 - 03:13 AM

My task is mundane, get in front of robot mode software production and finish off the 4 pairs of navy blue stubbies I started. On the bright side I have just bought a pair of Wiss #7 from a vendor in the US on eBay and while they need repair, they have the best blades I have seen on a pair of #7 Wiss apart from one tip being damaged from some dork who apparently used it as a lever to open something. Sometime this year I need to learn enough about sleeve design to make a jacket I have in mind. Torso fit is straight forward enough but I want a raglan sleeve with the center seam as I have very square shoulders and need the extra room so I don't bust out the top seam.

 

The Burberry trench coat I score last year has the sleeve design I want so I do have a model to work from.


Edited by hutch48, 27 January 2016 - 03:14 AM.

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#29 R. Marnie

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Posted 11 February 2016 - 05:07 AM

This semester for uni my class are being made to make a tailored jacket

as I've been a (somewhat lax) student of these forums for years now, I am somewhat horrified that we're doing this, having only done some dressmaking and various sewing before. 

 

BUT it's totally motivate me to start coming back here and posting and working on actual tailoring skills! 

so this year, 1 buttonholes, 2 better thimble technique and 3 posting my work here on the forum

 

Good luck with your goals everyone

(no, i'm not going to post about the jacket, i know I'd be chased out of town, also it will be terrible and no-one needs to see that)


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