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Formal/Wedding Silk


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#19 Atgemis

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Posted 18 August 2010 - 11:15 PM

I don't need it myself but David is going to offer a bespoke service making dress cravats (true Ascots). He could do with a quick working draft based on an authentic vintage sample. Information about what sort of interlining (fibre content, how stiff, heavy etc) would also be good. If you can afford to dissect one out and chalk around it for a pattern, all the better.


Silk twill is the best silk for this. No interlining needed. Not difficult to make. I have some Ascots in stock at the moment, if you need one then let me know. As for diagrams, I know someone who might have this information, my maker, but he may not hand it over easily.

#20 Atgemis

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Posted 18 August 2010 - 11:24 PM

Quite a while ago the subject of Formal/Wedding vintage silk designs for cravats and neckties was brought to my attention by Sator.


As I told Sator before, I can source you the silk twill you are looking for. I should have a picture of it on my blog www.lenoeudpapillon.blogspot.com - you will find that the best cravattes are of a silk twill. It can't be anything heavy that would be used for example a bow tie. It must be light. In the uniform and wedding market there seems to be a lot of awful stuff floating around being passed off as a cravatte - but a good cravatte, like one you would find at Charvet, is always a light silk twill with no interlining. I have some in stock at the moment which I had done in Como. The only problem is that they are digitally printed, which I am against, as I prefer corosive printing on silk which leaves an impression on the reverse side of the silk rather than a ghosting appearance, though on cravattes, as opposed to pochettes, this is of little concern. I can email you a sample if you email me on bow@lenoeudpapillon.com

#21 David Hober

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Posted 19 August 2010 - 04:53 AM

As I told Sator before, I can source you the silk twill you are looking for. I should have a picture of it on my blog www.lenoeudpapillon.blogspot.com - you will find that the best cravattes are of a silk twill. It can't be anything heavy that would be used for example a bow tie. It must be light. In the uniform and wedding market there seems to be a lot of awful stuff floating around being passed off as a cravatte - but a good cravatte, like one you would find at Charvet, is always a light silk twill with no interlining. I have some in stock at the moment which I had done in Como. The only problem is that they are digitally printed, which I am against, as I prefer corosive printing on silk which leaves an impression on the reverse side of the silk rather than a ghosting appearance, though on cravattes, as opposed to pochettes, this is of little concern. I can email you a sample if you email me on bow@lenoeudpapillon.com



Thank you for your thoughtful suggestion.

We feel that for informal cravats worn inside the shirt no interlining can work well, however, for a formal ascot a wool interlining is both a good look in trems of drape and practical when you think about using a stickpin.

As for silk sources thanks again but we either weave silk ourselves or have the usual sources in Ireland, England, France and Italy.

Charvet makes wonderful shirts but I am not excited about the quality of their neckwear.

Currently we are not using prints for cravats as woven silks are what is most popular with our clients who like traditional formal cravats.

The shape of the patterns that we have used so far is based on historical diagrams which we then make into new patterns for each order.

Digital printing is a fascinating area that we are still researching - probably as the technology matures it will become more attractive. We are currently setting up an in-house silkscreen workshop as we prefer to do as much of our weaving, dyeing and printing ourselves as possible.

With that said our next group of formal silks will have stripes and be woven in England as they do very good work with this type of silk.
David Hober
www.samhober.com

Custom Made/Bespoke Neckties, Pocket Squares & Scarves

#22 rs232

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Posted 19 August 2010 - 11:17 AM

I like black and white.


Me too. I'm not keen on the silver designs. I once had a black/silver check tie that I sold, simply because it looked too much like molten lead (dirty silver) colour from a distance.

#23 David Hober

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Posted 19 August 2010 - 11:35 AM

Me too. I'm not keen on the silver designs. I once had a black/silver check tie that I sold, simply because it looked too much like molten lead (dirty silver) colour from a distance.





RS232,


Thank you for the information. 

At the moment we are taking the middle path and weaving with sharp contrast black and white as well as softer silver and grays.


Hopefully, everyone will be happy as we grow our formal collection. - smiling








David Hober
www.samhober.com

Custom Made/Bespoke Neckties, Pocket Squares & Scarves




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