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The "Perfect" Sleeve


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#1 ballmouse

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Posted 10 May 2019 - 11:39 AM

I was skimming a book written about Charles James, the designer. In it it mentions his obsession on the "perfect" sleeve. However, the book is not a tailoring book so it actually doesn't mention what exactly the details are.

 

The only 2 clues are:

  1. Extra width across the back (https://imgur.com/V1Qs1kR)
  2. Shifting the grain of the sleeve (https://imgur.com/I2NfdnU)

 

Anyone have any idea as to what the 2nd point means? And what other techniques he may have implemented? Just thought this might be an interesting topic.



#2 lopez

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Posted 13 May 2019 - 04:04 AM

no idea but i'm fascinated by The Perfect Sleeve, too. i totally get the obsession.



#3 lopez

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Posted 13 May 2019 - 04:14 AM

wait... the second clue sounds like a BIAS sleeve, which i'm interested in for making more form-fitting canvas bicycle riding jackets for more reach. i was wondering about WHERE the grain line should originate, though. this 2nd clue above says have grain line in FRONT of arm, which i've heard before but didn't know WHY. i thought grain line on the BACK side would be stronger over time (but inhibit reaching far forward???).

 

i hadn't tested this on models yet to try in the real world so i find your clues fascinating. thank you for your budding obsession.

 

(smile)



#4 greger

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Posted 13 May 2019 - 05:10 AM

If the armholes are not in the right place that also is a problem.


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#5 P Art

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Posted 08 July 2019 - 04:10 AM

I think the hardest thing is to draft a Sleeve after the arm hole is correctly fitted.




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