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Side seam ease added to back pattern or not?


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#1 mberglun

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Posted 22 June 2017 - 10:19 PM

Based on the discussions in this forum, I get the impression that the typical way to draft trouser patterns is to have the side seams of the back and front have the same length on the pattern, while the inside leg seam of the back pattern is shorter than on the front. This seems to be the case also in the Runschau pattern that I want to use.

 

However, some pattern drafting systems seem to result in a pattern where the back has a longer side seam than the front, where the idea (to my knowledge) is that the extra is taken in as ease at the seat. Also, looking at instructions for ironworking trousers (e.g. http://www.cutterand...p?showtopic=435), the back seems to get more shrinking than stretching compared to the front, which would require a longer side seam in the back to start with.

 

If starting off with a pattern with the same side seam lengths on the front and back, I guess one way to achieve the same side seam length at the end would be to stretch the back much more at the knee than the front is stretched at the calf, so that the resulting side seam length is the same even if the back is shrunk both at the seat and calf. Is this the way it is usually done?

 

Is there something I am missing? What is your take on this, would you still recommend a pattern with the same side seam length, or one with a longer side seam length on the back?



#2 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 23 June 2017 - 09:12 AM

The notches of the knee need to fit on top of each other, then you will see how much you have stretched the inside seam.


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#3 lngn2

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Posted 23 June 2017 - 07:26 PM

My understanding (both from making up myself and discussions with a professional trouser maker) is that so long as the knee notches match you can just cut off any excess at the bottom.

#4 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 24 June 2017 - 12:15 PM

My understanding (both from making up myself and discussions with a professional trouser maker) is that so long as the knee notches match you can just cut off any excess at the bottom.

Yep, have it a little longer and then cut it off inclined the length you need it.


Edited by Der Zuschneider, 24 June 2017 - 12:16 PM.

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#5 mberglun

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Posted 24 June 2017 - 09:58 PM

Thank you very much for the replies! That makes sense. So, in other words, as the knee notches match, the stretching done to the back at the outer side seam above the knee notch is taken in by shrinking the back at the hip level? In that case, the seams of the front and back would have the same length above the knee notches.



#6 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 25 June 2017 - 05:14 AM

Thank you very much for the replies! That makes sense. So, in other words, as the knee notches match, the stretching done to the back at the outer side seam above the knee notch is taken in by shrinking the back at the hip level? In that case, the seams of the front and back would have the same length above the knee notches.

 

No. You stretch the inner seam of the back trouser and get longer there.

You stretch the outer seam along the butt and iron in along the hip bow, but not too much, whatever length you might get at the waist must be new "Ausgezeichnet" to get a nice waist line.


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