Lately when cutting shirts I've been lamenting the fact that as when you're cutting shirts you have to deal with just 2 seams and darts to get a proper shape. More and more customers want shirts to fit exactly the way a coat fits - cleanly - and cut very much to the bone. To be honest, most shirt drafts are just not up to the task in that regard. It's supposed to be a rather drapey, loose fitting garment.
Besides, there's only so much space you can take out with a single side seam, and only so much at the back with darts. I'm also starting to make weirder and weirder looking drafts as the years go by it seems, just to eek out a little bit of a better fit here and there.
The other day I had this bodybuilder body type with a chest sitting at 110 and a waist of 92. that's a 18cm drop. Proper usage of diameter and placing of darts gets you a long way - but in the end I turned to actually making a side body in the shirt and combine it with darts, much the same way you would cut a coat.
Funny thing is, I always was under the impression that customers would react unfavourably against the usage of any seams other than the side seam (darts was a thing a few years ago that was frowned upon among some customers). Lately, they just want it to fit, and they're like, look, you're the tailor, and I don't mind having a few extra seams here and there (the sidebody is hidden quite well anyway and to be quite honest makes for an interesting looking garment).
I've even been contemplating making a 2-piece sleeve on the guy's shirt, which I will try next fitting, so again, very much like a coat. The reason is that his biceps is humongous and I am limited in how tall I can make the sleevecap (the sleeve gets tighter the higher the sleevecap is), but not making the sleevecap high enough gives me the creeps because of the fugly draglines that appear.
Is this the coatmaker in me trying to take shirts too far or is this a natural way for a bespoke tailor to deal with changing demands from customers?
To my fellow tailors, have you done this, and what are your thoughts on this?