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#1 Kenn

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Posted 08 March 2018 - 09:34 AM

I have this book Designing and Drafting Shirts for Men and Boys 1962.
In the drafting instructions it's states scale 1/3 chest + 6".
There are other scales within the same directions such as 1/8, 1/2, 1/12 etc.
How are these translated to inches from point to point.

#2 billfrishberg

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Posted 08 March 2018 - 09:57 AM

Chest divided by 3 plus 6. So if chest measurement is 27 inches, for instance, the part of the draft you are plotting would be 27/3+6 or 15 inches.

#3 jeffrey2117

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Posted 08 March 2018 - 07:25 PM

Chest divided by 3 plus 6. So if chest measurement is 27 inches, for instance, the part of the draft you are plotting would be 27/3+6 or 15 inches.

Hello Kenn,

 

  Men's suit jackets 36" chest measurement and above are chest 1/3 chest +6", while chest measurements of 35" and below are 1/2 chest, +6". 

 

Does this book use the same calculations for all chest sizes for men's and boy's shirt drafts? 

 

Regards

 

Jeffrey2117


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#4 Terri

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Posted 08 March 2018 - 10:13 PM

In some areas of a draft you use 1/8 or 1/4 or 1/6 of the chest measurement "chest scale" and in other areas of the draft you use the scale you mention, which I usually call "working scale"

Some areas of the draft do not scale up proportionally based on the chest measure/scale itself, especially in larger sizes, hence there is another scale which is used.

An example off the top of my head may be the back neck width. In a size 48 chest, 1/6 of the chest scale ( 1/2 chest is 24" so 1/6 of that is 4") and 1/6 working scale (48 /3 = 16 + 6 = 22" so 1/6 of 22 is 3.66") are quite different.
(Metric drafting makes so much more sense.)
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#5 Rory Duffy

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Posted 15 March 2018 - 01:26 AM

Handcraft Tailor Academy offers Pattern Drafting for Bespoke Menswear course online as well as our new course Men's Waistcoat Making which is being launched in April. If you would like more information please contact me on Roryduffybespoke@gmail.com
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#6 Kenn

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Posted 20 March 2018 - 08:01 AM

Thank you all for your responses, it is very much appreciated.

#7 Kenn

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Posted 20 March 2018 - 08:03 AM

Hello Jeffery to answer your question I took the book back to the library so I don't know, also I was only interested in the one shirt so I didn't pay attention to the others.




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