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Bespoke Men's Tailor


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#1 jaw

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Posted 19 June 2010 - 03:33 AM

Fellow Board members,

I am seeking one or more recommendations for a bespoke men's tailor in NYC--prefer Manhattan though I will consider other parts of NYC.

From my perspective, the most important quality is someone who is "passionate" about making a high quality suit that really satisfies me.

I would like to be introduced to someone who will educate me about my options and listen to my interests, as well. While I am not looking for a "designer", I would like someone who knows what will really look good on me.

I know that price point is an issue in a "pricey" city. I know that $5K will clear most, not all, price points. I would like to keep the garment in the $2k-$3K range.

I have enjoyed reading this forum and I am most impressed with the members.

Thank you for reading this note.

All the best,

#2 Martin Stall

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Posted 19 June 2010 - 05:10 AM

You sound like the perfect customer.
Sure, I believe your work rocks, but... have you considered, how are you going to sell that stuff?

http: under construction...

#3 jaw

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Posted 19 June 2010 - 06:06 AM

Do you have a shop in NYC? Thank you.

#4 JMB

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Posted 19 June 2010 - 06:22 AM

jaw:

For tailors in Manhattan, you might consider Simon Barchi whose store is on 55th Street between Lexington and Third Avenues. Barchi has a background in tailoring, and he's often called upon by Turnbull & Asser when alterations for shirts and ties are required for customers. Not far away from Barchi's store is Len Logsdail, who tailors clothes
very much in the English manner. If you saw Ridley Scott's American Gangster with Denzel Washington, you have a fair idea of Len's handiwork. Last but not least is Frank Shattuck, who resides somewhere outside Manhattan but within reach if you can find his address. Try The London Lounge for his precise whereabouts. This talented Irishman is a classically trained tailor whose work, like the others mentioned, is topnotch. Contact all of them and chat them up in person.

JMB

#5 Martin Stall

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Posted 19 June 2010 - 06:25 AM

I'm afraid I don't, I live in Spain. I'd be more than happy to come over and serve you up a suit but I imagine it would end up costing 5K. And if you're going to spend that much money, you might as well come down here and have a holiday while you're getting yourself togged up.

I'm serious about my previous remark though: There are so many stories nowadays about clients thinking that having read a few forums, they can tell their tailor what to do and how. Your remark "I would like to be introduced to someone who will educate me about my options and listen to my interests, as well. While I am not looking for a "designer", I would like someone who knows what will really look good on me." is spot on. It's a shared enterprise between tailor and customer. Agreement, mutual appreciation, openness etc.

And I also agree vehemently with your looking for someone passionate about clothing.
Sure, I believe your work rocks, but... have you considered, how are you going to sell that stuff?

http: under construction...

#6 jaw

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Posted 19 June 2010 - 06:39 AM

Well, I understand your point, Martin. I have noticed that some men walk into a store with a checklist of perfection.

A few weeks ago, I walked into Tom Ford's store in Manhattan--nice store but not that many garments on display.

A young man with his "girl friend" were looking at one of Tom Ford's suits and the young man was "deconstructing" the tailoring. "You see he does not do the shoulders the way the Anderson & Sheppard tailors did my shoulders," the young man says.

It hit me as a bit "insensitive". Ask Tom Ford what he has in mind, I thought.

Best and thank you all for your thoughts.

J

#7 JMB

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Posted 19 June 2010 - 06:47 AM

paw:

Addendum on how to contact Frank Shattuck. Google www.fshattuck.com and read the entries on his site, especially the
line that reads "serious inquiries only."

That being the case, you might give him a call:

F. Shattuck Tailor Co.
tel: 315-882-4724
Cazenovia, NY
New York, NY

After working for 40 years intown, it's not surprising that Shattuck folded his tent and headed for saner environs.
Take it from another exile, all the best New Yorkers don't live in Manhattan anymore.

JMB

#8 jaw

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Posted 19 June 2010 - 08:09 AM

thank you. i noticed that Mr. Shattuck did not live in NYC anymore. he has an attractive website. i have to consider how accessible he is to me. he, indeed, has a good reputable. thank you.

#9 Sator

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Posted 19 June 2010 - 11:43 AM

^ Frank Shattuck (who posts here as Old Henry) is probably out of the OP's price range.

I know that New Jersey is a bit of a hike from Manhattan but overheads are lower, and so it's easier to charge clients a more competitive price. If you are sticking to NYC then you will probably have to opt for a MTO service rather than bespoke (or custom as one says in the US).

I have heard about Toyo's:

Toyo's
7101 Bergenline Ave
North Bergen, NJ 07047
201 869-7252

I have heard from one highly reputable source that Manny is an excellent tailor and will make you a suit for around $1500.

If he is still around there is also Al Certo in NJ:

Al Certo Custom Tailors
1259 Paterson Plank Rd
Secaucus, NJ 08094
201 867-4934

Al Certo used to be Frank Sinatra's tailor. Here is an example of his work:

Posted Image

Al's prices are well within your budget, with change to spare. Here is an article about him (he is a character):

http://www.thesweets...certo-seen-all/

Paul Winston (Chipp) apparently also offers a good factory MTO suit for under $2000.00 in Manhattan:

11 E 44th St
New York, NY 10017-0063
+1 (212) 687-0850 p.
+1 (212) 687-5048 f.

Another source for small scale factor MTO type of operation is Gilberto's. They have about a dozen people on their payroll.
142 W 36th St
8th floor
New York, NY 10018
212-695-4925

Another MTO service with a good reputation is Mr Ned:

http://mrnednyc.com/
Mr. Ned
137 Fifth Avenue, 4th Floor
New York, New York 10010
Phone: 212-924-5042
Fax: 917-534-1238

Monday through Friday
8:00 am - 5:00 pm
Saturday
8:00 am - 3:00 pm

The MTO service from Ercole's is also meant to be very good:

Ercole's Creative Fashions
7415 13th Avenue, Brooklyn,
NY 11228-2020
(718) 837-4352‎

The best respected bespoke tailors in New York are otherwise all well out your budget. To further save on prices you might like to see if your tailor will accept customer's own cloth. You can pick up good bargains at Tip Top in Brooklyn:

Tip Top Trimming
170 Ross Street,
Brooklyn, NY 11211-7705,
(718) 963-0649‎

However, you do have to know your cloths well and it may be safer to get your tailor's guidance in the choice of cloth even if this means paying more.

#10 Sator

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Posted 19 June 2010 - 11:58 AM

For tailors in Manhattan, you might consider Simon Barchi whose store is on 55th Street between Lexington and Third Avenues. Barchi has a background in tailoring, and he's often called upon by Turnbull & Asser when alterations for shirts and ties are required for customers.


Simon Barchi
140 East 55 St.
New York, NY 10022
212-752-1448

Uncommonly for a tailor, he has a Facebook presence:

http://www.facebook....100000483114122

I doubt that either he or Len Logsdail are within the OP's budget.

#11 jaw

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Posted 20 June 2010 - 08:11 AM

thank you for the responses. indeed, i have realized that at 2,500 i am more likely in a MTO or MTM budget. that, indeed, is most helpful advice. it gives me a better perspective on my options. all the best, J

#12 Sator

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Posted 20 June 2010 - 03:00 PM

Indeed, i have realized that at 2,500 i am more likely in a MTO or MTM budget. that, indeed, is most helpful advice.


Yes, if you stick to tailors in Manhatten. If you venture out to NJ, however, it is a different story. Toyo and Al Certo are both proper bespoke rather than MTO.

#13 Der Zuschneider

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    - Modern Tailoring by German Semi-Traditional Standards

Posted 20 June 2010 - 05:08 PM

thank you for the responses. indeed, i have realized that at 2,500 i am more likely in a MTO or MTM budget. that, indeed, is most helpful advice. it gives me a better perspective on my options. all the best, J


In Houston it is even 3000$ for MTM.
www.berlinbespokesuits.com

#14 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 20 June 2010 - 05:24 PM

A few weeks ago, I walked into Tom Ford's store in Manhattan--nice store but not that many garments on display.

A young man with his "girl friend" were looking at one of Tom Ford's suits and the young man was "deconstructing" the tailoring. "You see he does not do the shoulders the way the Anderson & Sheppard tailors did my shoulders," the young man says.

A&S shoulder seams are slanted back like in the old days, that's a style, nothing to worry.
www.berlinbespokesuits.com

#15 Martin Stall

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Posted 20 June 2010 - 06:24 PM

If you have 2,5 to spend, it would be a real pity not to get bespoke. I know nothing about your neck of the woods, but unless you care strongly about big names or geographics, you should be able to get something severely decent for that money.
Sure, I believe your work rocks, but... have you considered, how are you going to sell that stuff?

http: under construction...

#16 Lewis Davies

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Posted 20 June 2010 - 11:42 PM

when i am next in NY for a meeting i would be happy to at least meet with you. when we go over to ny
m2m is not really a option it seems you are paying a lot for what you are getting m2m here in an around london made in soho or london is 800 max
i know a few apprentices who would easily be willing to make it for that amount and their work is impeccable

#17 jaw

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Posted 22 June 2010 - 03:02 AM

thank you all again. nice community. i guess i am inclined to figure out a way to work with someone outside of Manhattan.

#18 Sator

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Posted 22 June 2010 - 12:37 PM

I forgot to mention that there are travelling tailors from the UK that visit New York.

For example, Henry Poole:

http://www.henrypool...=4&cID=9#visits

New York
Date Venue Phone Location
23 - 27 February 2010 The Intercontinental Hotel 212 755 5900 New York
15 - 19 June 2010 The Intercontinental Hotel 212 755 5900 New York
28 September - 2 October 2010 The Intercontinental Hotel 212 755 5900 New York

I do believe that our OP is located in Boston:

Boston
Date Venue Phone Location
28 February - 1 March 2010 The Country Club (Members Only) Boston
2 March 2010 Eliot Hotel 617 267 1607 Boston
20 June 2010 The Country Club (members only) Boston
21 June 2010 The Eliot Hotel 617 267 1607 Boston
3 - 4 October 2010 The Country Club (members only) Boston
5 October 2010 The Eliot Hotel 617 267 1607 Boston

I've been pretty impressed with what I have seen from Poole.

Edwin DeBoise also visits Boston, Washington DC, Chicago and NYC:

http://www.steed.co....oke-tailors.htm

However, both of them are probably out of the OP's stated price range.

The Hong Kong based tailors WW Chan also do regular tours of the US:

http://www.wwchan.com/us.php

They are within budget.




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