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First fitting navy DB


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#1 hymo

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Posted 18 August 2010 - 01:02 AM

The tailor and I have decided on extensive changes based upon this fitting session. Nonetheless, I would very much value your comments.

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#2 jukes

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Posted 18 August 2010 - 01:37 AM

Nice. The fronts seem to be swinging away (maybe the neck point needs straightening?)- Some of the excess on the back at scye level could be reduced -
you have a drop right shoulder which needs addressing - the forearm seam on the sleeves is kicking forward (twisted) jacket length could be slightly shorter (1/2" - 3/4")

Edited by jukes, 18 August 2010 - 01:47 AM.


#3 hymo

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Posted 18 August 2010 - 02:04 AM

I appreciate your comments jukes.

#4 greger

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Posted 18 August 2010 - 05:14 PM

It seems like the button stance is high.

The top of the lapel is so high, will the collar be seen?

I don't understand why the back wasn't cleaned up.

You can see that the back seam is not plumb.

The left front edge is not plumb.

The bottom of the right front is showing from underneath.

Trouser legs seem a bit long.

Looks like nice cloth.

#5 hymo

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Posted 18 August 2010 - 05:25 PM

Greger, cloth is a mediocre 12oz number. It's literally "whole fleece" -- it's not a superfine.

#6 Nishijin

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Posted 18 August 2010 - 08:25 PM

Question : this is first fitting, before the fitting, right ?
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#7 hymo

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Posted 18 August 2010 - 08:35 PM

Question : this is first fitting, before the fitting, right ?

Yes, that is correct. My tailor does not use chalk marks but instead puts pins into various places.

#8 hymo

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Posted 18 August 2010 - 08:38 PM

Also, please ignore the trousers, they were cut for braces but in the pics they are suspended from my hips sans braces.

#9 hymo

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Posted 19 August 2010 - 01:15 AM

Based upon this first fitting, the tailor and I have decided on the following changes:

1. A 1/2" dart will be taken out at the lapel/gorge area, as is typical for DBs.

2. The right side of the jacket will be completely recut to take into account my shoulder drop. It will not be compensated for with asymetrical shoulder padding. It is this shoulder drop which causes the two columns of buttons to be misaligned, for the front panels to be misaligned at the bottom, and the center back seam to be not plumb.

3. The middle row of buttons will be moved 1" down. In the pics you see, the middle row of buttons are 1/4" ABOVE the waistline (which is a no-no for a DB).

4. The waist to be suppressed further.

Based on your comments here and elsewhere, I have called the tailor this morning to convey my wish for more changes:

5. The shoulders to be taken in a touch.

6. The shoulder padding to be half as thick.

7. The jacket front to be shortened 1/2".

The next fitting will be on this Saturday.

#10 jukes

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Posted 19 August 2010 - 01:38 AM

Based upon this first fitting, the tailor and I have decided on the following changes:

1. A 1/2" dart will be taken out at the lapel/gorge area, as is typical for DBs.

2. The right side of the jacket will be completely recut to take into account my shoulder drop. It will not be compensated for with asymetrical shoulder padding. It is this shoulder drop which causes the two columns of buttons to be misaligned, for the front panels to be misaligned at the bottom, and the center back seam to be not plumb.

3. The middle row of buttons will be moved 1" down. In the pics you see, the middle row of buttons are 1/4" ABOVE the waistline (which is a no-no for a DB).

4. The waist to be suppressed further.

Based on your comments here and elsewhere, I have called the tailor this morning to convey my wish for more changes:

5. The shoulders to be taken in a touch.

6. The shoulder padding to be half as thick.

7. The jacket front to be shortened 1/2".

The next fitting will be on this Saturday.


Your tailor knows what he is doing, (is this your first time with this tailor?)thats why he went for the skeleton baste instead of a forward fitting. Hopefully, you will put some pic,s up when it,s done.

#11 MANSIE WAUCH

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Posted 19 August 2010 - 06:22 AM

The uneven front edge may be due to misaligned pinning, the left front shows a looseness just below the buttons.

#12 hymo

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Posted 19 August 2010 - 04:30 PM

This tailor has made me 3 jackets previously, but this is the first fully canvassed number and the first DB. I asked for this to be roomier to fit over a thick sweater. I also requested a 1/4" shoulder extension over my normal pattern. It's obvious to me now that proper balance everywhere is so much more crucial with FC construction. Fusing is a wonderful invention in that it suppresses small fitting issues.

I'm based in Kuala Lumpur, and he told me there is only one fully canvassed tailor left in the city. This is so sad.

BTW, I know now why RTW DBs are rare. Many people have dropped shoulders. This causes the two columns of buttons to be misaligned. In a blazer with contrast buttons, it is very obvious. I'll bring a spirit level to the next fitting to make sure the buttons are all aligned :)

#13 Nishijin

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Posted 20 August 2010 - 12:43 AM

It's obvious to me now that proper balance everywhere is so much more crucial with FC construction. Fusing is a wonderful invention in that it suppresses small fitting issues.
:Thinking:
I know nothing about fusing, as I never use it... But, how can fusing solve balance problems ?

I'll bring a spirit level to the next fitting to make sure the buttons are all aligned :)


Don't. Alignment must be judged by the eye. Sometimes, the "spirit level horizontal" do not look horizontal to the eye, because the "verticals" of the body are not vertical themselves. The aim of tailoring is to make something pleasing to the eye, not to the tool.
BTW, this is something I learned in a very different domain, but proved true in tailoring also.
http://www.paulgrassart.com

Clothes make the man. Naked people have little or no influence on society.
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#14 hymo

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Posted 20 August 2010 - 12:34 PM

Fusing makes the front clean. It suppresses folds and pulls. It's only on the fora that customers care about the back. For 99% of customers, if it looks good from the front they are happy.

I'm still taking the spirit level along. It would give an additional point of reference. I don't trust my tailor's eye, he is not a conscientious fitter and sometimes I see things wrong myself.

#15 jukes

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Posted 20 August 2010 - 03:30 PM

I don't trust my tailor's eye, he is not a conscientious fitter
[/quote]

That,s quite a statement.

#16 hymo

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Posted 20 August 2010 - 04:21 PM

I know, jukes. But it's the sad truth. I basically use him as a pattern manipulator, the real fitter is me.

If I were to leave the fitting to him, we would be done in 2 minutes. He would adjust the sleeve length, the trouser length, square the shoulders and voila.

#17 Nishijin

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Posted 20 August 2010 - 07:29 PM

It's only on the fora that customers care about the back. For 99% of customers, if it looks good from the front they are happy.

That is right that many customers are not really proficient in coat/trousers fitting. If front looks good (in their eye), sleeves, coat and trousers are proper length, and there is not too much cloth in the back of thighs (you know, when they take the back of the thigh in the hand, and ask for less cloth there, until the tailor has to ask if they plan to sit in these trousers sometimes...), then it's OK. Fortunately, not all customers are like that. And not all real connaisseurs are on the fora, far from it.
For those who do not know yet what to look, it should tailor's pride to make his best and educate (tactfully) his customers.


If you bring your spirit level, use it to check center front is vertical, that is a better reference than horizontal buttons.
http://www.paulgrassart.com

Clothes make the man. Naked people have little or no influence on society.
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#18 hymo

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Posted 21 August 2010 - 03:04 PM

Second fitting just now...

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1. Quarter inch more waisting each side
2. Sleeves to be rotated backwards
2. Shoulder slope correction on right side
3. 1/2" less back balance on navy trousers, 3/4" shorter
4. 3/4" shorter flannel trousers




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