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First fitting navy DB


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#19 jukes

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Posted 21 August 2010 - 04:41 PM

The jacket should be pinned at both buttons, not just the top. This would show the tightness on the hips, which needs letting out. There is also a lot of iron work which needs to be carried out on the sleeves (twisted) and jacket. The trousers need a lot of iron work especially on the thigh and your prominent calves. There seems to be a problem with the right sleeve head, do you have one shoulder longer than the other (right)or are you involved in a sport or work where you use your right side, it seems to be more "developed" than your left side.

#20 Svenn

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Posted 21 August 2010 - 05:52 PM

^What is the effect of iron work? Does it shrink the fabric where the iron has contact with? When is ironing used as opposed to tailoring?

#21 jukes

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Posted 21 August 2010 - 06:56 PM

^What is the effect of iron work? Does it shrink the fabric where the iron has contact with? When is ironing used as opposed to tailoring?

Basically, the iron is used to stretch / shrink the cloth, the prominent area,s of the body - Chest, upper back, seat etc are stretched. The hollow area,s and fullness placed on certain parts of garments are shrunk.
The iron is also used the same way to shape seams.

#22 hymo

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Posted 21 August 2010 - 08:28 PM

jukes, I think asking for ironwork on the trousers would get me fired as a customer. As it is, I'm the most particular customer he has had in his long tailoring career. He is close to breaking point.

Yes, it does appear I have different shoulder widths, doesn't it? Can't do anything about it now. Growing up, I used to play tennis.

What bothers me is the high gorge. I would prefer more shirt to show -- more tie to be visible. Is there a non-invasive way to achieve this?

#23 hymo

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Posted 22 August 2010 - 08:03 PM

Oh, I understand it now. Only ONE of the shoulders was taken in. Which do you prefer?

#24 jukes

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Posted 23 August 2010 - 02:19 AM

Oh, I understand it now. Only ONE of the shoulders was taken in. Which do you prefer?

That would explain the messy armhole / sleeve head on the right side. If iron work is a no go with this tailor, i would put the shoulders back as they were.
The tailor is obviously cutting from a block pattern, which is why he has trouble with the alterations.

#25 hymo

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Posted 24 August 2010 - 01:21 AM

The shoulders will be as in the first fitting. The front hem will be 1/4" longer, all buttons 1/2" lower, the front seam of the side body will be taken in 1/4" each, it will have a version of a pagoda shoulder or something (if I understood my tailor correctly), and the lapels will be padded in beige silk (this is to make the tailor pad more conscientiously), lining will be a burgundy Mitsubishi rayon.

The suit will be ready in about a week. I've never understood Savile Row's turnaround time, thankfully I live in Asia where everything happens faster.

#26 jukes

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Posted 24 August 2010 - 03:06 AM

The shoulders will be as in the first fitting. The front hem will be 1/4" longer, all buttons 1/2" lower, the front seam of the side body will be taken in 1/4" each, it will have a version of a pagoda shoulder or something (if I understood my tailor correctly), and the lapels will be padded in beige silk (this is to make the tailor pad more conscientiously), lining will be a burgundy Mitsubishi rayon.

The suit will be ready in about a week. I've never understood Savile Row's turnaround time, thankfully I live in Asia where everything happens faster.


It will end up tight on your hips, no forward fitting ???

#27 amateursarto

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Posted 27 August 2010 - 03:50 PM

I've learned faster is not always better. Before I started sewing for myself and found my current tailor, I thought the same thing. Even though it takes me a while to make things now, it's worth it.

Edited by amateursarto, 27 August 2010 - 03:51 PM.

AMATEURSARTO

#28 hymo

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Posted 09 November 2010 - 01:03 AM

People, sorry for the delay. Here are the pics of the finished product.

Posted Image

Posted Image

#29 hymo

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Posted 09 November 2010 - 01:07 AM

Posted Image

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#30 jukes

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Posted 09 November 2010 - 02:57 AM

Is he colour blind or did you ask for different colour collar melton, pad stitching and buttonholes?
(just kidding) :huh: Your right shoulder could do with a touch more padding, and the trousers look a bit short, all in all it looks very nice.

#31 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 09 November 2010 - 01:36 PM

Nice. The fronts seem to be swinging away (maybe the neck point needs straightening?)- Some of the excess on the back at scye level could be reduced -
you have a drop right shoulder which needs addressing - the forearm seam on the sleeves is kicking forward (twisted) jacket length could be slightly shorter (1/2" - 3/4")


100% :good:
www.berlinbespokesuits.com

#32 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 09 November 2010 - 01:43 PM

I like the result, nothing is perfect. You need to like it too! How much was the suit?
www.berlinbespokesuits.com

#33 hymo

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Posted 09 November 2010 - 09:10 PM

I asked for the contrast pad stitching because I wanted the tailor to know I value neatness. That way he knows every prick will be visible.

The suit was very reasonable. He would charge for CMT at USD 400, but I paid less.

I wore the jacket 3 weeks in a row during a business trip to Hamburg. The bottom half of the jacket was drenched 4X during this period and allowed to dry while I was wearing it, walking about the city. It was later given a sponge and press.

#34 hymo

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Posted 09 November 2010 - 09:26 PM

BTW the sleeves are not as long as they look. In the pics I have my elbows somewhat bent so that you can better see the outline of the torso. Bending the elbows causes my arms to retract somewhat into the roomy sleeves, making the cuffs disappear. If I relaxed my elbows the cuffs would peep out by about 1/8th of an inch.

#35 culverwood

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Posted 11 November 2010 - 02:49 AM

Is your tailor surprised by you taking the suit onto the street to have photographs taken of it?

#36 hymo

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Posted 11 November 2010 - 11:03 PM

LOL I surprise him with all sorts of the strangest stuff he doesn't even know quite what to expect of me anymore. Nowadays he just does what I say.




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