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Different 'grades' of bespoke?


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#55 Schneidergott

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Posted 04 November 2010 - 02:33 PM

I like the "roughly 30 minutes" for the alteration line (which indicates a really minor alteration like shortening the trouser legs or letting out the waistband etc. pp).

Well, you have to give them credit for extremely well made and aggressive marketing. I don't think you can exploit the terms "bespoke" and "Savile Row" any further for MTM.
All you get from the full bespoke firms on the Row is lamenting about it. But it's hard to "fight" a MTM (or RTW) company that has such a great marketing budget.

"Nur der ist Meister seiner Kunst, der immer sucht, das Gute zu verbessern und niemals glaubt, das Beste schon zu haben."
"Only he is a master of his art who always seeks to improve the good and never believes to have the best already"

http://www.dressedwell.net/ It's snarky, but fun.


#56 greger

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Posted 05 November 2010 - 05:03 AM

M2M and rtw can look very nice. They are rather engineered for a good presentation. Depending on how it is done you can hide a lot of fitting problems, and that is not quality. Besides, they are dumbing down intelligent thinking. So many people today think that if it fits around the chest, then it fits, or for trousers, around the waist it fits. Some of the approach to alterations is after the fact. Whereas, bespoke is during the fact. They both can have guess fitting before the fact. With bespoke there is so much more you can do. M2M is do the best you can and cover up the rest and pretend cover up is not there. If a tailor can't figure out how to fit a certain problem, then knowing how to cover up is usually best. I've heard that pad-stitching was invented for that purpose- the over stuffed. Some styles don't include perfect fit, so again we are back to some other method to gain the appearance.

Lastly, the garment can be fine tuned style wise on the customer at the fittings through custom. Whereas, some of those parts are finished on rtw and m2m, so that sort of fitting is impossible.

#57 ladhrann

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Posted 26 March 2011 - 08:51 AM

Just to add grist to the debate here are two businesses that offer semi-bespoke and graded levels of service:

http://www.cadandthedandy.co.uk/

http://www.barringtonayre.co.uk/

Has anyone out there tried either of these companies before? I must add a disclaimer, I got a pair of RTW cord trousers from barrington ayre, and I'm very happy with them. I plan to buy from him again.

#58 earthy

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Posted 28 March 2011 - 07:04 PM

^

I have no experience with either of these two tailors, but I understand from other fora that John DeBoise (Edwin DeBoise's brother) cuts for Cad and the Dandy. I believe they reduce costs by outsourcing some of the sewing overseas.

#59 ladhrann

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Posted 03 April 2011 - 05:47 AM

Food for thought indeed. I've decided to go with two local tailors in Ireland. Both do what they attest as full bespoke at a third of SR prices, mind you I'm talking cut make and trim. This is a bit of an experiment for myself and as both worked in London before returning to Ireland I'm optimistic of the result. Anyway I hope to submit the results to the forum for a critique when they're ready by the end of May. 2 three-pieces one a blue Donegal, the other a black subtle stripe Scabal, both fairly hefty cloths.




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