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Havelock Overcoat


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#37 jukes

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Posted 18 February 2011 - 06:22 AM

Does the coat have sleeves ? or is it sleeveless under the cape. Does the cloth have a "nap"

Edited by jukes, 18 February 2011 - 06:23 AM.


#38 0815newbie

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Posted 18 February 2011 - 06:54 AM

No sleeves.

What is a nap?

#39 Nishijin

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Posted 18 February 2011 - 07:39 AM

I foresee balance problems with this draft, a topcoat should have a longer back balance rather than shorter and the crookedness of the neck point will compound the problem, maybe the idea was to counter act the "spring" (for a corpulant figure presumably) on the centre front line. The tailor will need a good iron for this one.


This draft is not from modern Vauclair system, but from its ancestor Ladeveze-Darroux. I don't know which edition (maybe Inceptor can tell), but an older one than the 14th ed. I have, which is from 1945. Hence the crooked shoulder, which disappears from Ladeveze-Darroux system in the 1950s.

This system has a short front on all its drafts. There is an explanation on how to adjust the neck point using a direct measure, and I would guess people had to do it on many of their cuts. I know I had to each time I've tried it. I'll have to check if this has been corrected in the modern Vauclair system, and if not I'll ask to a friend who uses it how he manages the balance.
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#40 jukes

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Posted 18 February 2011 - 08:11 AM

No sleeves.

What is a nap?


Nap or pile, if you brush your hand down the cloth, then up the cloth, does it go darker in one direction, if so the cloth has nap, which means all the pattern pieces have to be cut in the same
direction and normally more cloth is needed.

Edited by jukes, 18 February 2011 - 08:12 AM.


#41 0815newbie

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Posted 18 February 2011 - 10:12 AM

Oh, I think I understand that term now. Thank you.

No pile at all.




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