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What guideline to use when determining the Ease for a sleeve


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#1 Prakash Parmar

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Posted 19 June 2012 - 04:06 PM

The fabrics we use are generally 8 to 9 oz and lighter. We generally keep about 1.5" in our sleeves but I feel it needs to be more.

I would appreciate it if anyone can guide me on ths topic.

Prakash Parmar
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#2 Vinny

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Posted 19 June 2012 - 04:52 PM

Yes thats right 2" to 2.1/4 " to give nicer finsh on the grown .

#3 Schneidergott

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Posted 19 June 2012 - 05:04 PM

Well, based on my own experience with lighter weight fabrics I'd say armhole circumference plus 6%. For very small armholes and very crispy fabrics which are hard to shrink 5% may be in order or you'll have a long and hard time setting the sleeves. Unless you have access to high-end equipment.

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#4 Nishijin

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Posted 19 June 2012 - 10:04 PM

Same as Scheidergott, the amount depends on cloth and style.
For cloth that doesn't take shrinking, 5 to 6% of armhole. On a 60cm armhole, it is a tad more than 5cm.

With cloth easier to work, you go to 10 cm or even more, for a very big roping. But you can't do this style if the cloth doesn't allow you to do it.

For so-called "napolitan shoulder", "spalla camicia", I would use only 2 or 3cm, just enough to give a nice shape to the sleeve and not get something completely flat, but no more. Actually, I would add the same ease as on a shirt sleeve.


If you like to have gatherings on the top of the sleeve, like they do at Sciamatt, then you can add more ease than usual, since you are not aiming to keep it clean and smooth.
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#5 Prakash Parmar

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Posted 19 June 2012 - 10:41 PM

Wow!
Thank you all. I appreciate it's lot.

Another question, when we are securing the armhole of the body, is the armhole suppose to 'shrink' in the circumference? (I do not know the industry terms as I was trained by my family & am unaware of the right terms)
For example, if the armhole on the pattern is say 21", when the body is actually made should the armhole be exactly 21" or does it get reduced by .5" to .75".

If anyone has any papers on drafting sleeves, please guide me to them. I am currently using a 1950's tailor & cutter system (modified to accomodate thinner fabrics we use these days ).

Thank you all. I feel I finally found a place where I am learning positively.

Regards
Prakash Parmar
From scorching Dubai

#6 Nishijin

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Posted 20 June 2012 - 12:04 AM

If anyone has any papers on drafting sleeves, please guide me to them. I am currently using a 1950's tailor & cutter system (modified to accomodate thinner fabrics we use these days ).


Rundschau : http://www.cutterand...p?showtopic=494
Tailor & Cutter (which you may be familiar with) : http://www.cutterand...p?showtopic=949
Scheidergott : http://www.cutterand...?showtopic=1303
And I think, very important : http://www.cutterand...hp?showtopic=58


My own personal sleeve cutting system is based on the last link. I use it to cut any sleeve, any style. Including shirt sleeves.
http://www.paulgrassart.com

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#7 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 20 June 2012 - 01:52 AM

Wow!
Thank you all. I appreciate it's lot.

Another question, when we are securing the armhole of the body, is the armhole suppose to 'shrink' in the circumference? (I do not know the industry terms as I was trained by my family & am unaware of the right terms)
For example, if the armhole on the pattern is say 21", when the body is actually made should the armhole be exactly 21" or does it get reduced by .5" to .75".

If anyone has any papers on drafting sleeves, please guide me to them. I am currently using a 1950's tailor & cutter system (modified to accomodate thinner fabrics we use these days ).

Thank you all. I feel I finally found a place where I am learning positively.

Regards
Prakash Parmar
From scorching Dubai


The Armhole of the pattern and in the coat should be almost the same if you work exact after the pattern.
I have even 7%/12.8% in the sleeve cap, I think this is maximum. I would rather say it could be lesser.
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#8 Schneidergott

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Posted 20 June 2012 - 02:30 AM

Another question, when we are securing the armhole of the body, is the armhole suppose to 'shrink' in the circumference? (I do not know the industry terms as I was trained by my family & am unaware of the right terms)
For example, if the armhole on the pattern is say 21", when the body is actually made should the armhole be exactly 21" or does it get reduced by .5" to .75".


There will be some shrinking around the front of scye, but I think that is equalled by the stretching for the shoulder bone. I would recommend to find a sleeve system you like, adjust the sleeve width and crown height and derive any style of sleeve from that.
Since you are in Dubai I guess there isn't much demand for heavy cloths?

"Nur der ist Meister seiner Kunst, der immer sucht, das Gute zu verbessern und niemals glaubt, das Beste schon zu haben."
"Only he is a master of his art who always seeks to improve the good and never believes to have the best already"

http://www.dressedwell.net/ It's snarky, but fun.


#9 savile row

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Posted 01 July 2012 - 05:40 PM

two things matter

1. what cloth you are working with , 13oz will take more ease than a 8 oz.

2. the cut of the sleeve


then its either right or wrong


I use about 2 inch , but this depends on cloth and cut

#10 J. Maclochlainn

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Posted 07 December 2012 - 04:40 PM

To clarify for others are you measuring the arm hole along the sew line or cut line to use as the base to factor in the 5-6%

Edited by J. Maclochlainn, 07 December 2012 - 04:40 PM.

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#11 Prakash Parmar

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Posted 07 December 2012 - 05:23 PM

i measure along the cut line.




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