Fused or fully canvassed does not influence the fit of a coat. If the fit is off it doesn't really matter how the coat was made.
I find that coats with a fused front run a bit warmer, since the glue layer is blocking the moist transfer. So if you are planning on a 16oz cloth to be made up I would recommend canvassed.
If money is an issue, you might pick a tailor who offers both and start with the lower price option. If it goes well, get the fully canvassed garment. If it doesn't, you haven't wasted precious money.
But another question: Isn't there any local talent near you?
That is simply not true.
I've seen $600 fused suits + $150 or so alterations, look far far superior to $3,000 bespoke or $5,000 name OTR.
Fit- first - + silhouette is (almost) everything.
You often have to pay well for quality - but the reverse is demonstrably not true - money does not buy quality
If you are going for fit and silhouette, this can be achieved with lower quality materials, "machine made" with a well cut garment. Quality will be found in the materials used, expertise and man hours, both on the inside and outside of a well made garment, hence the price will be higher = you get what you pay for.
I love this topic!!! to fuse or not to fuse that is the question, whether it is nobler...... Fusing has such a bad name and I think it is wholly unwarranted. The problem generally lies with the operator/tailor/sewer. I learned, as I suppose most of us did, to padstitch myself into a stupor as that was the"proper way" to do things. ( I trained in Germany and we're big on the proper way there) Later on when I was running the atelier where I worked I was invited to attend a fashion show and information night given by Freudenberg who is one of the major producers of interfacings in Europe.
During the discussion period their reps said one of the pet peeves the company had to deal with was the claim of the failing interfacing bond and that it always came down to the fact that the fusibles were incorrectly applied. I mean the company employs whacks of chemists and technicians who spend their lives optimizing adhesive formulations,fabric weaves, fibre combos and dot patterns for all kinds of materials that work beautifully and are quite permanent if correctly applied but this does require a specific heat/pressure/time/moisture combination for each interfacing which it seemed most people aren't willing to either grasp or follow. And each interfacing is geared to a specific fibre or fibre group. I was literally gobsmacked at the extent of their product line and amazed at the difference from what fusibles used to be like when the first pellons hit the market decades ago.
As to whether or not a fully canvassed jacket is better than one that is properly fused is for me a difficult question. I've seen plenty of bad padstitching in my time as well as lots of bubbling from bad fusing. I think the most important thing is that the garment be well and properly cut first and foremost. What methods are used to shape,form and stabilize the garment on the inside are then immaterial so long as it is done correctly for the material used. (I'm probably offending the purists out there so i apologize for that) I would frankly rather spend an extra hour or two on a perfect pattern then padstiching the chestpiece or building my shoulder pads from scratch.
Now here's the other thing about all this. if a well constructed fully canvassed jacket will indeed last almost forever and thus justify the greater expense and labour will the buyer still be wearing it in 10 or 15 years considering that not only do fashions change but the wearer's body inevitably will as well? And yes i am aware that you can allow for bigger inlays on some of the seams but these are generally the CB, back flank seam and back arm none of which help that much when it seems the majority of people put on weight at the front causing those (un)attractive diagonal pulls towards the buttons.
For those that are interested Freudenbergs recommendations for a successful fuse if using an iron were to put as much pressure on it as possible (really lean on it), hold the iron steady in each place for at least 15 seconds before moving it, lift and place - don't slide the iron and most importantly let the piece cool before moving it off the board to allow the adhesive bond to stabilize. The temperature varied according to fabric and interfacing.
"Imagination's everything. It is the preview of life's coming attractions" - Albert Einstein