29 replies to this topic

[Sator]

German Texbooks on Cutting

Bücher in der deutschen Sprache über der Zuschneidekunst

The German language literature is particularly rich and comprehensive. The trade journal Rundschau is also an excellent source of information, along with the books published by the Rundschau group entitled der Zuschnitt. Rundschau, based in Munich, remains in print today. There used to be another journal called die Schneidermeister from Hannover. The Schneidermeister group published huge and encyclopoedic books entitled die Zuschneidekunst. Other large publishing groups used to be based in Berlin, Dresden and Leipzig. Of these publishing groups whose histories went back often to the nineteenth century, sadly only Rundschau has survived.

Even those of us readily able to read technical German in other fields will struggle initially with the language, as very few cutting and tailoring technical terms are found in even quite voluminous German dictionaries such as Duden, and not at all in English-German dictionaries. Even basic terms are sometimes absent from these dictionaries.

Helbig, Alfred. Die Zuschneide-Kunst nach dem Einheitssystem - Handbuch für die Wäscheschneiderei. Fachbuchverlag Gmbh, Leipzig, 1953

Die Zuschneidekunst nach dem Einheitssustem - Handbuch für die Herrenschneiderei. Herausgegeben von der Arbeitsgemeinschaft der Zuschneidefachlehrer der Handwerkskammer Sachsen, Dresden. Fachbuchverlag Gmbh, Leipzig, 1951.

Die Zuschneidekunst Herrenkleidung (?)III Ed, Fachzeitung der Schneidemeister; Hannover, 1927
Die Zuschneidekunst Herrenkleidung IV Ed, Fachzeitung der Schneidemeister; Hannover, 1931
Die Zuschneidekunst Herrenkleidung V Ed, Fachzeitung der Schneidemeister; Hannover, 1934
Die Zuschneidekunst Herrenkleidung VI Ed, Fachzeitung der Schneidemeister; Hannover, 1938

Müller, Franz Xavier: Lehrbuch der Zuschneidekunst:
-Münchener Buchgewerbehaus M. Müller & Sohn, München, IX Auflage, 1925
-Verlag der Deutschen Bekleidungs-Akademie München Franz Xavier Müller Gmbh, XI Auflage, 1933

Der Zuschnitt für die Herrenschneiderei
- System M. Müller & Sohn, München. Deutsche Bekleidungs-Akademie München, XVI Auflage, 1960

Lehrbuch der Europäischen Moden-Akademie, enthaltend die Zuschneidekunst für Herren- und Knabengarderobe sowie Uniformen. Verfasst von A. Gunkel. Verlag Expedition Europäische Modezeitung (Klemm und Weiss), Dresden, IV Auflage, 1903

Praktisches Lerhbuch der Zuschneidekunst. Zuschneider-Verein, Frankfurt am Main, 1901.

[Sator]

German Texbooks on Tailoring

Bücher in der deutschen Sprache über der Schneiderhandwerk

The German language literature is particularly rich and comprehensive. The trade journal Rundschau is also an excellent source of information. Even for those of us readily able to read technical German in other fields will struggle initially with the language, as few technical terms are found in even quite voluminous German dictionaries such as Duden, and not at all in English-German dictionaries.

Leibold, Willi. Das Schneiderhandwerk. Hand- und Lehrbuch für das gesamte Schneidergarderobe. Fachbuchverlag Dr. Pfannenberg und Co., Giessen, 1958

This is a classic text and one of the most comprehensive in any language. It went through many editions. The 1958 edition was one of the latter ones.

[Schneidergott]

I have a few booklets for aspiring apprentices which I will upload to a filehoster this weekend. They describe all the stages involved in making different garments ranging from Sakko(lounge coat) to waistcoat and trousers. Instructions are for each step along with pictures. Only downside is the fact that they are written in German.
I did scan the first and most important part of my 1954 Rundschau book, which will be available by personal request.


SG

[jcsprowls]

I find that the language typically isn't so much a problem because most people can understand the drafts.

I do like Rundschau. Though, it's difficult to get a subscription outside the EU. A friend sends me an email from time to time when she finds an issue I might be interested in and then emails to confirm.

[Schneidergott]

If anybody is interested in german drafts: I have a whole lot of them, not all Rundschau. Some are from Allgemeine Schneiderzeitung, but still very good. I have not sorted them by categories so it's up to you to do so.
Honestly I find the latest Rundschau magazines boring and not really worth the whole lot of money they ask for them. Every year they keep repeating the same drafts with modifications so small that they're hardly visible.
Only useful thing are reports from fashion shows with pictures to proof the mostly poor fit of today's so called top designer labels. Other than that one can hardly find any valuable information. But that is just my opinion.
Whoever invented the imperial system never had pattern drafting in mind. I find the metric system so much easier to deal with, the 1/16 inch thing is driving me nuts. 1 inch= 2,54 cm, 1/16 inch = 0,15875 cm. Try to convert that into a pattern draft.

On the subject of books: My best book is from 1954, Der Zuschnitt für die Herrenschneiderei from Müller & Sohn. Those pattern drafts are still applicable today and ever so precise. Like any other drafting system it's just a starting point open to interpretations by the cutter, but it is yet the best I have come across.

SG

[Sator]

Whoever invented the imperial system never had pattern drafting in mind. I find the metric system so much easier to deal with, the 1/16 inch thing is driving me nuts. 1 inch= 2,54 cm, 1/16 inch = 0,15875 cm. Try to convert that into a pattern draft.

I can sympathise. I use to be very anti-Imperial myself, but I've gotten used to it. To roughtly covert to cm in your head this is what I do:

4" = 10cm
1" = 2.5cm
1/2" = 1.25cm
1/4" = 6mm
1/8" = 3mm
1/16" = 1.5mm

Personally I think 1/16" and 1/32" becomes awkward and I think you should use millimeters once you get into these fractions. I think anyone who thinks 1/32" is important in drafting should just use metrics.

Just my opinion

[jcsprowls]

1/32" is the tolerance I was held to as a patternmaker in a uniform factory. It's the degree of tolerance I practice, today. In fact, my CAD system is calibrated to the 1/32"; but, I can easily convert it to metric, too.

It's odd, though. All of my rulers only go down to the 1/16". A 1/32" discrepancy isn't tremendously evident until the pattern is digitized or your eye is trained to see it on paper. On top of that, a lot of the automated equipment I work with (today and previous) tolerates up to 1/16" discrepancy. So, why was that 1/32" standard adopted? I have no clue...

I'm inclined to agree that the metric system just makes more sense because it's a finer calibration. Fortunately, I have L-squares in both metric and imperial. Most companies I work for provide specifications in imperial measures, so that's the system I work in. Changing systems is NBD because I have tools calibrated in both systems.

General things, like you mention, Sator, are easy to memorize. One aspect of industry patternmaking I hope custom tailors will consider is standardization where it makes sense. For example, all facings are either 2 3/4", 3 1/2" or 4" wide depending on the market/pricepoint, all vents are 1 3/4" or 2" wide (again, depending on market/pricepoint), etc.

To Schneider's point about repeating drafts. Well, this was also true of the Tailor & Cutter trade mag, too. Year-to-year, the style changes for men's clothing is so subtle that it becomes superfluous. In contemporary menswear - one of the markets I make for - lapel widths can vary as little as 1/8" between seasons.

[Schneidergott]

This is a book from Switzerland/ Schweiz:

Der moderne Zuschnitt
Lehrbuch für den Zuschnitt der Herren- und Damenbekleidung
Lehrmethode der schweizerischen Fach- und Zuschneideschule Zürich

Published in the 30's.

[Schneidergott]

A few more books:

Fritz Fleig: Der moderne Zuschnitt (nach der Gemeinschaftstechnik) published in 1948
Die praktische Stoffeinteilung published by Müller & Sohn, München

Handbuch der gesamten Herrengarderobe, Amtstrachten und Berufskleidung V. Ausgabe
herausgegeben von der Zuschneider- Vereinigung von Rheinland und Westfalen

[Schneidergott]

Fachzeichnen für Herrenschneider

Several booklets named: Das ABC des Schneiderhandwerks published by "Der Schneidermeister", Hannover
Heft 2: Die einfache lange Hose
Heft 3: Die Rundbundhose
Heft 4: Die Weste
Heft 5: Taschen für Sakkos, Joppen und Mäntel
Heft 6: Die Verarbeitung des Sakkos

"MODERNE VERARBEITUNG" in der Herrenschneiderei 2. Auflage, published by Müller & Sohn
"WIR ÄNDERN" Ein Handbuch zur Erkennung und Beseitigung von Passformfehlern 4. Auflage, published by Müller & Sohn, München

[Schneidergott]

QUOTE (Schneidergott @ Apr 19 2009, 07:32 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Fachzeichnen für Herrenschneider

Several booklets named: Das ABC des Schneiderhandwerks published by "Der Schneidermeister", Hannover
Heft 2: Die einfache lange Hose
Heft 3: Die Rundbundhose
Heft 4: Die Weste
Heft 6: Die Verarbeitung des Sakkos

[Dukemati]

Schneidergott, many thanks for this material. This is marvelous. I was searching for something like this a very long time.

Besten Dank und ein Bravo für Deine Mühen. Meine Frackweste für den Wiener Opernball wäre in der Verarbeitung mit diesen Tipps noch besser geworden. Aber jetzt kommt mal eine Trachtenweste für die Wiesn dran.

[jcsprowls]

Schneider has all the good books.

I especially like the lessons on building shoulder pads. That's a whole 'nother discussion re: sculpting the body using architectural underlayment.

[Der Zuschneider]

I have a few booklets for aspiring apprentices which I will upload to a filehoster this weekend. They describe all the stages involved in making different garments ranging from Sakko(lounge coat) to waistcoat and trousers. Instructions are for each step along with pictures. Only downside is the fact that they are written in German.
I did scan the first and most important part of my 1954 Rundschau book, which will be available by personal request.


SG

Hallo Schneidergott, I am interested in those old things you have. It looks like we can discuss many things about pattern. I didnt knwo about this Forum, so now I can get to know more people who are interested in pattern making. I am German, and speak German. We can discuss even those patterns if you like. I am searching everything about Pattern making.

Edited by Der Zuschneider, 20 November 2009 - 04:22 PM.

[Der Zuschneider]

I just saw the 'Klassische Verarbeitung einer Damenjacke' I have the same in Mueller Muenchen 6. Auflage. You must have a newer Edition than I have, it is more complete. You are great producing PDF.

Verarbeitung des Sakkos, very nice book to read. I prefer Mueller Muenchen 15. Auflage, 1954. But there is always something new to read.

Lange Hose auch schoen, I remember the time working in a Massschneiderei in Berlin...

Die Rundbundhose... and rare Breeches

[Der Zuschneider]

I find that the language typically isn't so much a problem because most people can understand the drafts.

I do like Rundschau. Though, it's difficult to get a subscription outside the EU. A friend sends me an email from time to time when she finds an issue I might be interested in and then emails to confirm.

Rundschau can be ordered world wide, but is expensive.

[Der Zuschneider]

Today I got in "Der individuelle Zuschnitt" by Otto Meier, 198 pages
Lehrbuch für den Zuschnitt und die Verarbeitung der Herren-Massbekleidung
Lehrmethode der Schweizerischen schneiderfachschule Zürich
Herausgeber: Zentralverband Schweizerischere Schneidermeister
Verlag Ed. Hoffman Zürich 1953

Its a remarkable book similar Müller&Sohn 15. Auflage

For collectors: I have double: Auflage 12/14 in exchange of 13.

[songgoriti]

For a couple of years i have copied the following pages from a book.
But i do not know the book title.
Now i will know the book title.
May be someone can help me to find the book title.

Thank you very much.[attachment=243:Seite23Small.jpg]