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Robert Rähle and the UNICUT system

Rähle UNICUT womens drafting Mens drafting jacket draft Swiss Swiss tailoring 1969s 1970s

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#1 Schneiderfrei

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Posted 07 April 2018 - 02:14 PM

I wanted to continue to explore the UNICUT system of Robert Rähle from the late 1960's to the early 70's.  Thanks, as usual, to peterle for locating and assisting in the translation of a very significant article, early in the series, that outlines the intent and system for producing the drafts.  In this case, the instructions are for a jacket.  The point being that one can use the very same system to draft a Ladies' clothing as for a Man's.  A great feature of this publication is that it offered the information in three languages. Alas, not English, so English speakers must laboriously work to get the information out.  Only fair really, considering to massive effort the world must make to translate from English.
 
As usual - this translation is presented for private study only. the original text is available at pg 143 of:
 
 
 
A Uniform Drafting System for Women’s and Men’s Clothing.
 
 
Robert Rähle, Zürich
 
It can’t be overlooked: the border between women’s and men’s fashion is beginning to dissolve.  Not only in the fabric sector, but also with the cut itself.  Indeed, one no longer speaks of Unisex, but of Partner- or Together look.  Thus, if not an identical, yet a similar, clothing for both sexes.  In any case, the topic is current and has its implications.  In the future, tailors and textile manufacturers will be even less likely to specialise in women's or men’s clothing but rather in particular types of clothing for him and her.  In the case of professional and sports clothing, trousers, blouses, and shirts, this is already the case today.
 
So far, anyone wanting to cut women’s and men’s clothes had to learn two fundamentally different systems.  Until now, for borderline cases of body shape and fashion line, a smooth transition from women’s to men’s clothing has been missing.  With UNICUT it is possible, for the first time, to design every article of clothing, from men’s shirts to women’s fur coats, with the same simple, reliable drafting system.
 
The allowances included in the draft measurements are solely for ease: the seam allowances can be added at any desired width.  Variations to the fashion lines are therefore no problem.  The usual circumstance in men’s tailoring, seams partly included, comes from a time when menswear was stuck in rigid formulae.  The conversion of the sleeve cap to a classic Raglan is already excessively difficult.  To say “One has always done it this way”, should not be a cause to refrain from something more reasonable.  At least, not for members of the ever changing fashion industry.
 
This also applies to the view that a draft should always be made from right to left, which is not necessarily true for women’s clothing.  Whether one begins a draft with the centre line left or right is indeed, irrelevant, but the logical direction would be to draw from right to left.  With women’s overcoats and waisted jackets with button front edges, the application of particular fashion styles to the pattern is easier than the other way round.  This is true at least for manual drafting.  Electronic drafting, in the future, will be governed by other rules.  A men’s jacket or coat, drawing from right to left can be justified by the buttoning in the same direction.  Thus, one can better judge the overlapping side with the correct ratio from lapel to breast pocket.
 
Since everything in this present system arises from the same draft, mistakes could arise between women’s and men’s clothing.  Therefore, and based upon the considerations above, we begin with the centre back women’s left and men’s right (Fig. 2).
 
For practical reasons, for the enlargement and reduction of the normal cut (grading), the patterns are rotated so that the centre back and centre front are facing down and the shoulder and sleeve cap lie to the right.  Drawn in terms of the right angle coordinate system, the positive X axis points upward from the waist and the positive Y axis points forward from the centre back.  This will be true, in this case, for both women’s and men’s and facilitates the transition from manual to electronic resizing.
 
Unicut_pg_143.jpg
 
 
We will return to this in the continuation of this treatise on the unified system – UNICUT.
 
 
 
UNICUT:   For Versatile Technicians 
 
un Systeme universel
un sistema universale
 
Robert Rähle, Zürich
 

The following draft setup, refers to the article "A Uniform Drafting System for Women’s and Men’s Clothing" above.  Our example concerns respectively, the draft and seam placement for a women’s waisted jacket with a side body, and a men’s jacket.  Both are for 48 chest (thus women’s size 42 and men’s size 48)

 
Les constructions suivantes permettent de couper chaque vêtement, soit pour dame ou pour homme, d'après le même traçé de base.  Notre exemple concerne les formes classiques d’un tailleur et d’un veston, les deux pour un tour de poitrine de 48 cm, soit taille 42 pour dames et taille 48 pour hommes.
 
Le costruzione seguente permettano di tagliare ogni vestito per donne e uomini.  L’esempio spiega il disegno di una giacca per donna (fig. 1 et 3) e per uomo (fig. 2 e 4), tutti due per un giro del torace di 48 cm, dunque grandezza donne 42 e grandezza uomini 48.
 
          Abbreviations:      abreviations:                       abbreviazione:
 
Dgr:   Women’s size       taille dames                        Grandezza donne
Hgr:   Men’s size            taille hommes                     Grandezza uomini
Kg:    Body Height          Stature                                Statura
Ow:   ½ Chest Circ.        ½ tour de poitrine                ½ giro del torace
Tw:    ½ Waist Circ.       ½ tour de taille                     ½ Giro della vita
Hw:    ½ Hip Circ.          ½ tour de Hanches               ½ Giro della bacino
Tl:      Waist Length        longueur de taille                 lunghezza della vita
Rh:     Back Height         hauteur du dos                      altezza del dorso
Rb:     Back Width          largeur du dos                       larghezza del dorso
Bb:     Chest Width          largeur de poitrine                larghezza del petto
Ad:     Armhole Width     larg. Emmanchure  largh.     giro manica
Hb:    Neck Circ.             largeur du col                        larghezza del collo
D:      Women                  dames donne
H:      Men                       messieurs uomini
 
Proportional Measurements:       mesures normales:              misure normale:
 
a  Body Measurements                 mesure etroite                     misura stretta
b  Ease allowance                         augmentation                       aumento
c  Draft Measurements                 mesure de construction       misura di costruzione
 
Dgr. 42/Kg 168
a b c
Ow: 48
Tw: Ow —11 37
Hw: Ow + 3 51
Tl: ¼ Kg — 1 41 1 42
Rh: ¼ TI + ¼ Ow — 1 21 1 22
Rb: ¼ Ow + 6 ½ 18.5 1 19.5
Bb: ½ Ow — 3 21 1 22
Ad: ¼ Ow + 1 13
Hb: 6.5 0.5 7
 
Hgr. 48/Kg 176 a b c
Ow: 48
Tw: Ow -4 44
Hw: Ow + 4 52
Tl: ¼ Kg 44 1 45
Rh: ¼ Tl + ¼ Ow 23 1 24
Rb: ¼ Ow + 8 20 1 21
Bb: ½ Ow – 5 19 2 21
Ad: ¼ +2 14
Hb: 7.5 0.5 8
 
The following draft description includes Ease (measurement c).
 
Aux constructions suivantes, les augmentations sont comprises (mesures de construction c).
 
Ai disegni seguenti, gli aumenti sono compresi (misure di costruzione c).
 
Unicut_Fig_1.jpg  Unicut_Fig_2.jpg
 
Fig. 1, Fig.2:
 
The Draft / le tracé de base / il disegno di base
 
                                                            D cm H cm
A . . . A1 =  Hb                                        7               8
A1 . . . A2 = 2 cm                                   2               2
A . . . W = 1/3 A - A1                              2.3 2.7
W . . . O = Rh                                         22 24
W . . . M = ½ Rh                                    11 12
W . . . T = Tl                                           42 45
T . . . H = 20 cm                                     20 20
O . . . O1 = Rb                                      19.5 21
A3 . . . S = ⅕ A3 . . . O – 1 cm              3.8 4.3
S . . . . S1 = variable                              2 3
O1 . . . O2 = Ad                                    13              14
O2 . . . O3 = Bb                                     22 21
O2 . . . B1 = D : ¼ Ow H : ½ Bb           12 10.5
B1 . . . B = 1 bis 2 cm / 1 á 2 cm 1 1
O2 . . . A4 = D: O1 . . . A3 + 0.5 cm      24.8
                = H: O1 . . . A3 – 1 cm           25.7
W . . . A5 = D: W . . . O2                        39
                = H: W . . . O2 + 3 cm 46
O2 . . . S2 = O1 . . . S1 – 2 cm              18 19
A5 . . . S2 = A2 . . . S1                           12.5 15.5
O1 . . . 4 = ¼ O1 . . . S1                         5 5.25
4 . . . . R = 1 cm                                     1 1
O2 . . . V = 4 cm                                     4                 4
V1 = ½ V . . . S2                                     7 7.5
R1 = ½ R . . . S1                                     7.5              8
O1 . . . O4 = ½ O2 . . . O1 + 2 cm           7.5             8
T2  . . . T6 = ½ Tw                                  18.5            22
A6 . . . A7 = Hb                                        7                8
A6 . . . C = Hb + 1 cm                              8                9
T. . . . T1 = 1.5 cm                                   1.5            1.5
H . . . H1 = 1 cm                                      1 1
 
The Position of A6: If T3 lies inside O3 (In general, for women, see Fig. 1), then A6 is formed from a right angle from O3. When T3 lies outside O3 (In general, for men, see Fig. 2) then we get A6 by a straight line from T3 over O3.
 
In the corpulent case, A7 comes to lie behind A5, then A6 is first advanced, by the corresponding (i.e. A5 . . . A6 = at least A . . . A1) and then connected with T3 by a straight line.  So we get the necessary extension for O3.
 
At Hip height the vertical CF centre front is made ½ cm wider.  Point H2 therefore lies 0.5 cm outside the vertical from O3 (Fig 1) or respectively from T2 (Fig 2).
 
Waist Dart:  When T3 lies inside O3 (see Fig. 1), T4 . . . T5 = T3 til the CF centre Front — 1 cm (Fig. 1: 3 cm, Fig. 2: 0 cm) H4 . . . H5 = 1 cm less (Fig. 1: 2 cm). When the waist dart is omitted, (Fig. 2) H5 lies vertically under B.
 
Unicut_Fig_3.jpg  Unicut_Fig_4.jpg
 
Fig. 3/4:
 
Classic Seam Posititons / coutures classiques / cuciture classiche.
 
H1...H2 = Hw + 4 cm (D: 55 cm. H: 56 cm)
H6...H7 = at least 1 cm / 1 cm au moins / 1 cm al meno
T6...T7 = 2 cm (1 cm higher/ rehausser 1 cm / rialzare 1 cm)
T8...T9 = 4 cm (note the shifting of the set points)
with R: Fold under ¾ cm, tapering to the CB centre back
vers R: plier ¾ cm, en mourant au milieu du dos
al punto R: piegare ¾ cm, morendo al centro del dorso
A1...A2 = Back dart / pince au dos / ripresa al dorso
A7...A5 = Front dart / pince au devant / ripresa alla parte del davanti
 
The 1 cm deep dart between T1 and T8 can be used with derivatives of phantasy jacket forms. For the classic back shape it is not used.
 
Unicut_Fig_5_-_6.jpg
 
Fig. 5 and 6: If the back is to be processed without the dart the pivot the CB (Centre Back) from 10 cm below the neck ring.  In this case A1 . . . A2 then becomes the ease amount of 1 cm.
 
Unicut_Fig_7.jpg
 
Fig. 7: Normal Men’s bodice front part after closing the dart A5 . . . A7.  At A5 an additional waist suppression of 1 cm. The dart tip lies 1 cm behind B.
 
Unicut_Fig_8.jpg
 
Fig. 8: The same, for a figure with a bigger chest (keeping a 1-2cm dart in the neck hole). 
 
Unicut_Fig_9.jpg  Unicut_Fig_10.jpg
 
Fig. 9 and 10: Corpulent Figure
 
Fig. 9: L1 = extension of the line T3 . . . H2
L2 = Extension of the line O3 . . . T3
L3= ½ L1...L2
L3...L4 = ½ L1...L3
L5...L6 = 2/3 L1...L2
 
Fig. 10: L6...L5 and A7...A5 are pinched away. *
         * (A5 is erroneously labelled here as A6.)
         Chest dart is the same as in Fig. 7.
 
The Sleeve / la manche / la manica
 
 
Measurements: mesures: misure:
Dm: diameter / diametre / diametro
Kh: cap height / hauteur de la tete de manche / altezza della tromba
Al: Sleeve length / longueur de la manche / lunghczza della manica
Dm = (U — ⅛U)/2 or: armhole circumference minus ⅛ divided by 2
ou: pourtour de l’emmanchure moins ⅛ e, divise par 2 
o: circonferenza del giro della manica — ⅛, : 2
Kh = O1...S (Back/dos/dorso) — 1/5 O1 . . . S
D: circumference/pourtour/circonferenza = 45 cm, Dm = 20 cm, 01...S — 20,5 cm Kh = 16,5 cm
H: circumference/pourtour/circonferenza = 48 cm, Dm — 21 cm, 01...S — 21,5 cm, Kh — 17,5 cm
 
Unicut_Fig_11.jpg
 
Fig.11:
 
Draft / trace de base / la base
 
                                                         D (cm)    H (cm)
D...D1 = Dm                                      20        21
D2         = ½ Dm                               10       10.5
D . . . O2 = 2/3 Dm                           13.5      14
O2 . . . O4 = 1/3 Dm                         6.75       7
O4 . . . R = ½ O4 . . . D1                  9.5        10
O2 . . . V = 4 cm                               4            4
O4 . . . K = Kh                                  16.5     17.5
O4 . . . K = Kh (E1 = Senkrecht) 16.5     17.5
D . . . . K2 = Kh                                 16.5    17.5
D1 . . . K3 = Kh                                 16.5    17.5
O2 . . . P = Al                                    41         44
O2 . . . E = ½ Al – 1 cm                     9.5        21
P . . . P1 = 3 cm                                 3           3
P . . . P2 = 12 . . 16 cm                    12          15
E . . . E2 = 1.5 cm                            1.5        1.5
 
Unicut_Fig_12.jpg
 
Fig. 12:
 
E1 . . . E3 = 1 cm 1 1
E1 . . . E4 2 cm 2 2
P . . . a 2,5 cm (horizontal) 2.5 2.5
P . . . b 2,5 cm 2.5 2.5
a . . . c The length b...d la longueur de b..d lungezza da b...d
 
For a women’s sleeve with a slim sleeve cap transfer outwards the width R . . . m minus 0.5 cm. 
 
Mesurer de m ä droite la largeur de m...R moins 0,5 cm pour obtenir la manche pour dame (forme etroite de la tete de manche).
 
Misurare da m a destra la distanza m...R meno 0,5 cm per ottenere la manica per donna (forma Stretta della tromba).
 
Unicut_Fig_13.jpg
 
 
Fig. 13: Men’s comfortable sleeve with a very flat sleeve cap.  On a horizontal line transfer the amount e . . .K1 from K1 to f.  
 
Forme tres comfortable de la manche pour messieurs. Au moyen d'une ligne horizontale, mesurer de K1 ä f la distance de e...K1.
 
Forma molto confortabile della manica per signori. Con una linea orizzontale, misurare la distanza e...K1 da K1 a f.
 
Unicut_Fig_14.jpg
 
Fig. 14: Men’s modern sleeve or women’s comfortable sleeve.
 
Manche moderne pour messieurs (ou manche plus comfortable pour dames).
 
Manica moderna per signori (o manica piü confortabile per donne).
 
K1...g = 2 cm (horizontal line / ligne horizontale / linea orizzontale
g...i = h...g
 
Unicut_Fig_15.jpg
 
Fig. 15:
 
The Pitch Points / les points de repere / i punti di riferimento
 
(Women’s sleeve: dashed line, men’s sleeve: solid line)
 
Average amount to be eased in between the pitch points: 
surplus d’ampleur entre les points de repère: 
ampiezza supplementäre media tra i punti di riferimento:
 
V . . . V1 = 0.5 cm
V1 . . . S1 = 1 cm
S3 . . . R1 = 1 cm
R1 . . . R = 1 cm
R . . . O4 = 1.5 cm
O4 . . V = 0.5 cm
 
The sleeve width can be corrected by folding under (pinching) or opening at S3.
 
On peut corriger la largeur de la manche en pliant ou ecartant le patron vers S3.
 
Per corrigere la larghezza della manica, aprire o piegare il modello al punto S3.
 
To be continued  / à suivre / continua
 
1970 - (see pg 172, 182, 208)
1971 - (see pg 24, 36, 42 (hosen), 48, 60, 66 etc) 

Edited by Schneiderfrei, 07 April 2018 - 06:46 PM.

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Shell made out of gold
Found on a beach picked up and you held so close


#2 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 12 April 2018 - 12:34 PM

Good work. The system is overthought, probably Raehle wanted to reinvent the wheel again. Make the system work and draft it 1:1 to see how it looks like and check it is identical with the German system.


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#3 Schneiderfrei

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Posted 29 April 2018 - 01:14 PM

This might be helpful in understanding the reasoning behind the neck measure.

 

 

"The neck width has no direct relationship to the chest width and must be calculated from the neck circumference.  The latter however, is usually measured a few centimetres above the neck ring which is why this measurement will be inaccurate.  The normal neck width (same body size) amount with a chest width 48 cm for women 6.5 cm, for men 7.5 cm. It is increased and decreased by 0.25 cm for every size respectively."  Robert Raehle, Intermode 1971, pg 26

 

G


Edited by Schneiderfrei, 30 April 2018 - 05:12 PM.

Shell made out of gold
Found on a beach picked up and you held so close


#4 posaune

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Posted 29 April 2018 - 11:05 PM

Well, this calculation is as exact as all those of the proportional calculations :-).

With the bust width formula you will get 6.8 (1/2 back neck)  for a woman with the 48 bust.

Here the big busted lady will get a huge neck hole not so with Rähle - but with Rähle the small sizes may get a big neckhole.

Some take a 5fth of neck circ (neck base) and subtract some numbers

or some 6 th of neck add some numbers.

But please note: The size grades with the bust circ and there are some breaks. And these break s are different in some countries - 4 and 6 cm in most european systems but 5 cm in UK-based systems. So the remark -It is increased and decreased by 0.25 cm for every size respectively- is only valid with Rähle size table

lg

posaune


Edited by posaune, 30 April 2018 - 06:42 PM.

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#5 Schneiderfrei

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Posted 19 May 2018 - 03:39 PM

There is a way to view the images above.

 

As the image hosting sites struggle with their business models it helps us to be flexible!

 

When you click on the image icon currently, you get a page that says Unvailable etc. . . .

 

the URL at the top is - https://postimg.org/image/5ivskybq3/

 

the postimage URL has been changes tho and you can get to the image by making a little alteration postimage.org is changed to postimage.cc - everything else is the same.  Thus:

 

https://postimg.cc/image/5ivskybq3/

 

G


Edited by Schneiderfrei, 20 May 2018 - 12:49 PM.

Shell made out of gold
Found on a beach picked up and you held so close






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