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#73 benjaminh

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Posted 12 July 2018 - 10:49 AM

The left shoulder looks good I think. But I second Posaune´s post, the shoulder dart is a bit too high. It should be lower. The tip should be positioned at the most protruding point of the shoulder blade:

 

Put your right index finger at the edge of your left shoulder and run backwards towards the CB along the  upper ridge of your shoulder blade. You can feel, where the most protruding point of the shoulder blade is located. This is the point, where the dart should aim to.

 

I've also thought that the dart was too high. If I were to place it at the most protruding point of the shoulder blade, I would have to drop it ~6cm. I'll do that tomorrow and repost pics.



#74 benjaminh

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Posted 13 July 2018 - 01:42 PM

Here are the promised pictures:

boc517xo6c639464g.jpg

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9q8yb3rdb5oiovl4g.jpg

 

I think the folds on the front are just because I didn't pin the CF all the way to the bottom. I'm not sure what caused the horizontal folds on the back...

At least the left shoulder area seems to have been cleaned up quite nicely. I still need to open the right shoulder and work on that. 



#75 peterle

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Posted 13 July 2018 - 08:05 PM

Looks much better now. But my feeling says, it would be better to place the dart a bit higher. When the new is 6cm deeper, I think 3-4cm would be the right spot.

 

 

On sewing darts: always sew them from the open side to the tip. Otherwise You won´t be able to fade the dart out nicely.

 

IMO the folds on the front clearly come from lacking hip width (at least with jeans worn underneath). The gap of the CF shows clearly how much. You should add this amount (plus a few millimeters) evenly at the hip line in the side seams. (when the gap is 3cm, add 1cm to each pattern piece =4cm total).

 

Reconsider wether you want to cut the right shoulder differently. The nasty fold is gone now, and I think the rest is acceptable. A symmetric pattern makes sewing life so much easier and you wont´get in trouble when using patterned fabric.


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#76 benjaminh

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Posted 14 July 2018 - 10:34 AM

Looks much better now. But my feeling says, it would be better to place the dart a bit higher. When the new is 6cm deeper, I think 3-4cm would be the right spot.

 

 

On sewing darts: always sew them from the open side to the tip. Otherwise You won´t be able to fade the dart out nicely.

 

IMO the folds on the front clearly come from lacking hip width (at least with jeans worn underneath). The gap of the CF shows clearly how much. You should add this amount (plus a few millimeters) evenly at the hip line in the side seams. (when the gap is 3cm, add 1cm to each pattern piece =4cm total).

 

Reconsider wether you want to cut the right shoulder differently. The nasty fold is gone now, and I think the rest is acceptable. A symmetric pattern makes sewing life so much easier and you wont´get in trouble when using patterned fabric.

 

Just so that I learn for the future, why should the darts be moved higher? Currently, there situated directly over the highest part of my shoulder blades.

 

What do you think of the right shoulder seam? It looks to me like it is sitting pretty nicely. I haven't opened that up and pinned it like I did the left one...



#77 peterle

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Posted 14 July 2018 - 07:22 PM

Darts: imagine two vertical weighted threads at your back: one running over your shoulder blade, on running at the armhole seam. when seen from the side both threads form a kind of inverted J. The lower area is straight and the hihger area forms a kind of quarter circle. The purpose of the dart is to reduce the larger quarter circle of the shoulder line to the smaller quarter circle of the armhole line. Your new dart is at the spot where the straight area meets the circle. It would be better to make the reduction within the circle area. A good place is the pointed structure on the shoulderblade ridge: #2 on this pic: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scapula#/media/File:Scapula_post_numbered.png

That´s the most protruding point I was talking about.

 

 


 

 

 

What do you think of the right shoulder seam? It looks to me like it is sitting pretty nicely. I haven't opened that up and pinned it like I did the left one...

 

Ok, I see. Your pattern is already assymmetric. Than You can go the whole way and do the low shoulder adjustment for the right side. We will see it´s effects on the hip thing.


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#78 posaune

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Posted 15 July 2018 - 07:07 PM

If it is width or length you test it.

You start with the left side because it is more "normal".

Put it on , pin  ca. 5 cm under neck level one pin close The sides will swing away (the right side more I assume). Notice how much it gapes.

Now pin at (left side) center of armhole height  horizontal from CF maybe 1 cm  going 0 to the side. This is quick done standing before a mirror. Look again how much the gap  is now. Better?

If better transfer it to the right side.

Nothing done?

you have to let out the side seam. Let armhole closed and relase from there.

It can be both too.

It can now be that you have to rotate the pattern at bust point.

It is difficult for me to describe. Bust point is rotating point for the whole front pattern.

But before you do all those alterations clean up the neck and the armhole - maybe parts of the problem vanish.

 

Armhole will be difficult. I advise to lay the shirt on your pattern and copy all cuts to the armhole. if you have the right rulers do a nice curve. Add s.a. IIf not do a template of the undisturbed pattern armhole use it for a guide.

lg

posaune

Do not forget to mark permamently the new found shoulderseam


Edited by posaune, 15 July 2018 - 07:08 PM.

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#79 benjaminh

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Posted 17 July 2018 - 12:49 PM

I apologize for the apparent fit issues in the last set of photos; I don't think width is a problem, the bottom hangs nicely normally, it's only when worn over jeans with a belt that it is tight. Since I never actually wear my shirts over my pants, this doesn't constitute an issue. Here are some better pictures; the only difference is that I have copied my changes to the left shoulder to the right. Although a symmetrical pattern would be great, I think assymetry is worthwhile to remove those horseshoe folds on the right side. When I'm going through the trouble of fitting the rest of the shirt so carefully, that section that is less than perfect stand out.

5msmv5hvbpn4b1q4g.jpg

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Here is one with the right shoulder angle increased by ~7mm, and the armhole dropped correspondingly:

5d5c9rb05ir5b6t4g.jpg

Better, I think, but definitely still needs work.

 

A question for posaune: I tried using your string and pendant method for finding the neckline. The back neckline seemed to be slightly higher than what it is currently with seam allowances, and the front is way higher. It seems that this method creates a nearly horizontal neckline. Am I doing something wrong? I first hung the string with the pendant on the front (to find back neckline) and then with the pendant on back (to find front). Is this correct?



#80 posaune

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Posted 17 July 2018 - 11:38 PM

Benjaminh, if you can't do it, maybe try it this way: Take a longer string - no weight. Take it at center and start at front neck, guide it over the side to the back neck cross there and back to front. You move the string with your fingers down into this little "hole" you have in front. (There are 2 bones  coming near each other  and the sinews of the neck - this is the base of the front neck). Thighten the string a bit by  pulling at both sides. Hold it down in front with one hand  (or fasten it with tape) and guide the string around your neck at the base. You can release or tighten the string easily as you need it.To feel where the base is, go up and down with your finger. Mark how the string sits around the neck. This your neckhole.

lg

posaune



#81 benjaminh

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Posted 18 July 2018 - 02:08 PM

OK, here are the results. What do you think of the general shape?

tdtuch9kdntpqg84g.jpg

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#82 Schneiderfrei

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Posted 18 July 2018 - 03:15 PM

I only put this forward for consideration.

 

In one of my translations of the Unicut system Robert Raehler comments that many folks measure the neck too low in the first place. That was his reason for assigning an arbitrary neck width. 

 

G


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Found on a beach picked up and you held so close


#83 posaune

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Posted 18 July 2018 - 09:31 PM

Looks good for me. Now the collar. Cut  out the stand  1 times. Glue some interface on (to give it more "stand") and baste into the neck hole.

The stand is cut shaped:  Upper seam is shorter than lower seam , the collar should lay snug around the neck.

( I do not expect this will be the case, But you never know. If it feels like binding or wrong in front you may have to recut the neckhole.  Set it deeper or more out and clip into s.a. of the neckhole.  If it dipps in back  and do not run level  at back center you have to add a little fabric at back neckhole and set it higher. If it rises a bit too high cut it lower. It looks like you have a forward neck, try out which positon is comfortable for you.)

You seem to have a slender neck. So it may be you have to shape the stand a bit more. If it stand stands away, pinch it and sew a little dart.  After having the right length for upper seam of the stand cut the undercollar - glue interface on and baste the collar to the stand.  This will give you an impression how the finished collar will look.

lg

posaune


Edited by posaune, 18 July 2018 - 09:42 PM.





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