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Shoulder, blades, sleeves


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#19 Gruto

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Posted 10 December 2009 - 07:43 AM

I am sure that Gruto is just trying to support the pool of local talent with his custom and that is a good thing.


My project has been to get as much good suit as possible from a local tailor bearing in mind that bespoke tailoring is almost extinct in Denmark. Clearly, I didn't get that message through to everybody.

The view from the side shows that the sleeve pitch is off, which contributes to the messy looking hindarm. The sleeve needs to be pitched further forwards.


Thanks, Sator, I can use these comments on the sleeve - I have learned a lot from them.

The other internet driven fad is that of asking for a totally unstructured shoulder without any padding.


In fact we didn't talk much about the shoulder padding. He told me that he prefers little padding, which sounded good to me.

However, things like this should have been picked up at the fitting, and are no excuse. That's what fittings are for.


True.

Edited by Gruto, 10 December 2009 - 08:16 AM.

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#20 Schneidergott

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Posted 11 December 2009 - 06:15 AM

That bad sleeve pitching did cause the folds in the back more than a faulty shoulder slope. It would have been less on a clean fitting coat.
From what I can spot on the frontal picture is your right (your right side, not that on the photo) is pulled up a bit. Have a close look at the checks and the way the centre front is moving slightly outwards.

Posted Image

@leomer: This may not be an example of the best tailoring available, but neither is it one of the worst. These are minor issues to fix in this case. There are several tailoring houses who cut a similar style which mess up things on a constant basis and yet there are so many who praise their work without allowing much criticism...

Here is one example, have a look at the sleeves and the totally messy back, and this guy is a returning customer, so these defects should have been sorted out long, long ago!

Posted Image

And how they got that! sleeve into the armhole is beyond my imagination. Not to mention the way it has been cut... :Black Eye:

But wait, there is more:

Posted Image Check the pockets! Now that is a lousy attempt!

This isn't a pearl either (although it got highly praised by someone who should know better on another forum):

Posted Image





Gruto, I think your tailor should check the shoulder/ armhole lines. It seems that the armhole curves in at the rear. He could easily take a bit away from the front and keep the rear straighter.

Posted Image

This might be a solution for adjusting the pattern to your posture, which, scusi, is not an easy one to cut for... (sorry for the image being incomplete):

Posted Image

And last but not least: It is common knowledge that it takes 3 attempts to get it right. :Big Grin:

"Nur der ist Meister seiner Kunst, der immer sucht, das Gute zu verbessern und niemals glaubt, das Beste schon zu haben."
"Only he is a master of his art who always seeks to improve the good and never believes to have the best already"

http://www.dressedwell.net/ It's snarky, but fun.


#21 Sator

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Posted 11 December 2009 - 12:07 PM

There are several tailoring houses who cut a similar style which mess up things on a constant basis and yet there are so many who praise their work without allowing much criticism...


I should add that those readers who turn to the internet to guide them for their choice of tailors should consider that there may be undisclosed commercial interests involved when a house with issues like those are praised so much.

And last but not least: It is common knowledge that it takes 3 attempts to get it right. :Big Grin:


:Clown: :Clown: :Clown:

#22 Sator

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Posted 11 December 2009 - 01:40 PM

I've moved this thread to this new forum. I hope that it will help provide genuinely useful information to bespoke clients that is above all independent and free of commercial influences.

#23 Sator

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Posted 12 December 2009 - 05:25 PM

There is one more point to make about this thread and it is that is really does beautifully illustrate the importance of having a shot from the front, side and back to get a good diagnosis of the problem at hand. It would have so much easier to spot the problem early without all of that speculation if we'd just had that side shot earlier on.




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