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A Sleeve System with Multiple Pitch Marks

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#1 Sator



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Posted 13 August 2011 - 09:38 PM

Here is something that is not seem very often - a sleeve system with multiple pitch marks. I am sure this sort of thing is common within industry cutting systems, but these are virtually never published.

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#2 Lewis Davies

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Posted 27 August 2011 - 08:47 PM

calculation these sleeve pitch points are of the highest importance in knowing where to place fullness on the sleeve i cannot stress how important this draft is
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#3 Nishijin



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Posted 10 December 2012 - 02:14 AM

It happens that my own system, though designed before I discovered this draft, share many ideas with it.

As Lewis, I consider this as a very important draft in the study of sleeve cutting.

Here are a few comments from my ideas and experience.

Point 8 is draft with a fixed value (1"). I place it myself at 3cm below 7. I have made extensive calculations with geometry to find the correct rule for optimal placement of point 8, depending on how you want the sleeve to be.
I found that it always was a few millimeters around 3cm, at least for usual sleeves (not dancers sleeves made to be nice with the arm horizontal, or this kind of stuff, but sleeves made to hang nice vertical, as is usual on tailored coats). The few millimeters were irrelevant when you add the ease in the sleeve crown, so 3cm as fixed value is my shortcut. I guess 1" would give quite good results too, maybe even better if you like roping (I do, but add my roping value later in my draft).
I guess 3cm also gives me a slightly fuller undersleeve, which I like for confort.

What I don't like on this system is that it is drawn with seams included, and measures are taken on the cut line, not the stitch line. I draft my sleeves net (without seams allowances), take all measures on the stitch lines, add values necessary for style and at last add seam allowances. I find it gives better control of what is happening. With this system, you should get a nice, moderate roping, typical of 1950s british fashion.

Also, when I draft sleeves, I consider important to dissociate the sleeve head draft from the "sleeve body". The sleeve head is drafted to go in the armhole, with pitches aligned. This is important, rotating the sleevehead to correct pitch is a crude way to straight-up an incorrect hang.
When the crown is drafted, then you can draft the rest of the sleeve so that it hangs adequately for the customer's arms.
I use a direct measure for this, and do it slightly differently than on this draft. Here, the trick is in point 12, and adjusting its distance from point 11 so that the hang of the sleeve is correct. I can't see any way to use a direct measure to do calculate correct placement of point 12, but maybe someone else will.

I also think that the point 15 is not in the right place on this draft, but that is not very important, it is easy to move it.

Today is the first time I pay attention to the undersleeve at point 14, I'll have to test this idea. My sleeves are made with both parts aligned at point 14, as it is done in most drafts I've seen yet. My feeling is that the author is right, and this trick will give a nicer seam.

Clothes make the man. Naked people have little or no influence on society.
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