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Trousers for a traditional lady

woman trouser drafting +size

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#1 fronno

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Posted 07 October 2016 - 12:41 AM

Hello everyone,

 

Is there someone among us whom has experience with drafting a pattern like this

 

La russe
Album: diverse
1 images
0 comments

 

If one of you have time are you willing to help me out with this, preferable in Rundschau? Or just some hints?

If I follow my instinct I would draw a couple of riding pants.

 

Thank you so much!

 

 

 



#2 posaune

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Posted 07 October 2016 - 02:49 AM

not riding pants. They are meant for sitting in a saddle. The legs are open.
Look more for ski pants or tight jeans. As I can't see any darts maybe they are done from ponte but the pics are very small
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#3 Schneidergott

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Posted 07 October 2016 - 03:57 AM

They look a lot like Lycra/ Spandex­® trousers, so no darts.


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#4 eboli

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Posted 07 October 2016 - 02:24 PM

There are shaped waistbands - and some sort of yoke at the black/white item. That's ok for a flat-bellied lady or a customer with a protudent stomach. If your customer is an hour glass you may need waist darts, too, which can be transformed into a yoke.
I would also recommend a belly control panel at the inside.
You need to reduce the hip width according to the fabric you use. As a rough guide you can take away half of the stretch of the fabric but you can determin that at a fitting only. (If you have two layers of fabric start a third of the stretch.)
Don't reduce the leg width for this will lead to legs climbing up with every movement.
As for the waist you have to try. I usually don't reduce the waist in order to avoid the "muffin edge" that goes with softer tissue but some fabrics need that, too.
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#5 fronno

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Posted 08 October 2016 - 10:22 PM

You need to reduce the hip width according to the fabric you use. As a rough guide you can take away half of the stretch of the fabric but you can determin that at a fitting only. (If you have two layers of fabric start a third of the stretch.)
 

Yes Eboli thank you so much! I had this piece of info forgotten. I will use it.

So also my thanks for Posaune and der Schneidergott I will use darts in the yoke and will start to draft a jeans pattern for the lady, instead of the riding pants. Thank you :)






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