A moderately waisted overcoat:

A box coat with an easy fit:

A corpulent cut:

A Raglan overcoat:

Posted 01 November 2010 - 10:33 PM
Posted 01 November 2010 - 10:36 PM
Are you certain the diagonal stripes are really the grain line ? Because those overcoats' canvases are pretty wide if you need to cut them in such a bias... The canvas I buy is not that wide, I can't cut those patterns on the true bias.
Posted 02 November 2010 - 12:16 AM
"Nur der ist Meister seiner Kunst, der immer sucht, das Gute zu verbessern und niemals glaubt, das Beste schon zu haben."
"Only he is a master of his art who always seeks to improve the good and never believes to have the best already"
http://www.dressedwell.net/ It's snarky, but fun.
Posted 02 November 2010 - 08:37 AM
Also, if you cut the canvas on the bias following the direction of the lines you will have it straight in the lapel fold, making it difficult to shrink it for a fuller chest!
Posted 03 November 2010 - 06:36 PM
Posted 03 November 2010 - 07:42 PM
Posted 03 November 2010 - 07:50 PM
Posted 03 November 2010 - 08:11 PM
Posted 03 November 2010 - 08:21 PM
Posted 03 November 2010 - 09:08 PM
Posted 03 November 2010 - 09:12 PM
Posted 03 November 2010 - 10:39 PM
Posted 03 November 2010 - 10:47 PM
Posted 03 November 2010 - 11:12 PM
Posted 04 November 2010 - 12:24 AM
Posted 14 November 2010 - 11:02 PM
Here is another variation of the same thing - the two part dart:
There can be no doubt that this is perfectly deliberate:
Of the two, the curved variant results in the stronger effect on shaping the shoulder.
Posted 21 December 2010 - 07:52 PM
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