I am still very young in the trade and despite assiduously reading this forum when not pushing the needle, I know I lack a lot of knowledge (and guess I will still lack in fourty years but eh, everlastingly learning is one of the loys of being a craftsperson ).
A friend of mine, who is into napoleonic reconstitutions, asked if I could do a jacket for his uniform. As I have never done one before, I thought it would be good experience doing it and fun also.
I tried to gather information and, if I have a lot of visuals, I am very concerned with the sleeves (and that's when the fun ends).
For as much as I could understand, these sleeves have very particuliar specs, meaning :
- very narrow
- thus "elbowed" (can't find if this is the right term, English is not my mother tongue) for allowing movement
- going forward
- not falling straight but envelopping the body
If I am quite ok with the first three points but I am not getting anywhere with the last one. All the muslins I did were grandiose failures in trying to obtain this "corkscrew" effect that can be a little bit seen on this picture (and as a matter of fact, there are actually few reconstitution uniforms that respect this aspect).
To make things worse, my friend has quite a stooped figure and the sleeves need to turn around the waist all the more.
Of course, I tried to contact specialised tailors but they would not accept to give me hints (you bet!).
I am actually so desperate that I am considering using a dart on the back shoulder seam for pushing the shoulder forward, making the seams of the undersleeve a little bit shorter than those of the upper sleeve for forcing the sleeve to take shape and finish shaping by ironing.
But I don't feel right about using shortcuts and I would appreciate if the immense cumulated knowledge of this forum could fly to my help (licking boots here? )
Thank you all,