Jump to content


Photo

Corpulent shirt draft, or draft for imbalanced physique

shirt draft corpulent

  • Please log in to reply
17 replies to this topic

#1 SpaceMonkey

SpaceMonkey

    Umsie

  • Validating
  • Pip
  • 47 posts
  • Gender:Male

Posted 29 March 2016 - 04:26 PM

Hi everyone. There's a thread here which seems to provide some information on drafting shirts for corpulent and/or imbalanced physiques. However, the image links in the thread all seem to be broken. Is anyone able to provide the images, or similar information, please?

 

The reason I ask is that I've made a few shirts for myself, but I've gained a bit of weight so I'm thinking that my next draft might need to accommodate my large-ish stomach. I have a specific question, and was hoping that a corpulent draft would provide some insight.

 

My question is: Is it ever a good idea to have a shirt draft where the waist measurement from the side seams across the back is less than the measurement across the front? Most shirt drafts I've seen appear to divide the circumference of the torso into quarters, and then the front center line, side seams, and back center line are all equally distributed around this distance. But if fabric is added to the front panels at the side seams, but no fabric is added to the back panel at the side seams - will the garment still 'work'? My logic is that then the side seams will pass down beneath the arms, but there will be a greater amount of fabric in the front to accommodate the belly. Is that a legitimate alteration to a standard shirt pattern?


Edited by SpaceMonkey, 29 March 2016 - 04:33 PM.

Manners Maketh Man.


#2 dpcoffin

dpcoffin

    Apprentice

  • Professional
  • PipPip
  • 310 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Brookings, Oregon, USA

Posted 29 March 2016 - 04:45 PM

Women's garments have more width across the front in the bust area than in back at the same level, even though that can result in the grain not being the same front and back at the side seams…

 

Shame about those missing pix. I saved one from that thread here:

https://www.pinteres...11128759209101/

 

Hopefully others will emerge!


  • SpaceMonkey likes this

#3 Schneiderfrei

Schneiderfrei

    Pro

  • Senior Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 974 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Adelaide, Australia
  • Interests:learning and imagination

Posted 29 March 2016 - 04:59 PM

Thank you DPC,

 

I had always neglected to copy those down.


Shell made out of gold
Found on a beach picked up and you held so close


#4 SpaceMonkey

SpaceMonkey

    Umsie

  • Validating
  • Pip
  • 47 posts
  • Gender:Male

Posted 29 March 2016 - 05:06 PM

Yes, it's a shame when images are missing. It seems to be a problem only when they are hosted on external sites.


Manners Maketh Man.


#5 dpcoffin

dpcoffin

    Apprentice

  • Professional
  • PipPip
  • 310 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Brookings, Oregon, USA

Posted 29 March 2016 - 05:59 PM

Yes, it's a shame when images are missing. It seems to be a problem only when they are hosted on external sites.

 

Is there any other way to do it?



#6 Terri

Terri

    Pro

  • Super Pro
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 1,038 posts
  • Gender:Female
  • Location:Ontario Canada

Posted 29 March 2016 - 08:49 PM

Yes you can increase the front and leave the back as is.
You can draft a standard size as if there was no corpulence, then make an adjustment.
  • tailleuse and SpaceMonkey like this

#7 Henry Hall

Henry Hall

    Pro

  • Senior Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 863 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:De Lage Landen

Posted 30 March 2016 - 02:34 AM

Seems to me obvious if the bulk of corpulence is at the front and the side seams need to stay in roughly the same place. Although some accommodation has to be made for a slight increase at the back hip; no-one solely gains weight in one localised area.


  • SPOOKIETOO and SpaceMonkey like this

"Luxury must be comfortable, otherwise it is not luxury." - Coco Chanel.


#8 tailleuse

tailleuse

    Master

  • Senior Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,059 posts
  • Gender:Not Telling
  • Interests:Tailoring and couture.

Posted 30 March 2016 - 07:54 AM

Here are seven images I saved from the earlier thread. Let me know if you can't access the Photobucket album.

 

http://s1339.photobu...s?sort=3&page=1


Edited by tailleuse, 30 March 2016 - 08:03 AM.

  • Henry Hall, SpaceMonkey and Miyabi like this

Dignity. Always, dignity. (Singin' in the Rain)


#9 Henry Hall

Henry Hall

    Pro

  • Senior Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 863 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:De Lage Landen

Posted 30 March 2016 - 09:05 AM

Excellent, I'd never seen these images before. Always something new popping up on here.


  • tailleuse likes this

"Luxury must be comfortable, otherwise it is not luxury." - Coco Chanel.


#10 SpaceMonkey

SpaceMonkey

    Umsie

  • Validating
  • Pip
  • 47 posts
  • Gender:Male

Posted 30 March 2016 - 05:03 PM

Great work, Tailleuse - thank you! :D


  • tailleuse likes this

Manners Maketh Man.


#11 Schneiderfrei

Schneiderfrei

    Pro

  • Senior Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 974 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Adelaide, Australia
  • Interests:learning and imagination

Posted 30 March 2016 - 10:58 PM

The thing about the bodice draft for the corpulent figure type is that you can graft any sleeve onto it, so long as its wide enough.

 

Another big point is that you would use the corpulent draft not only for a very large belly but also if the belly pushes forward.


Edited by Schneiderfrei, 30 March 2016 - 10:58 PM.

  • SpaceMonkey likes this

Shell made out of gold
Found on a beach picked up and you held so close


#12 dpcoffin

dpcoffin

    Apprentice

  • Professional
  • PipPip
  • 310 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Brookings, Oregon, USA

Posted 31 March 2016 - 05:58 AM

Worth noting re: that draft, I think: Especially with a striped or checked fabric, I'd keep the center-front on grain and add the extra at the sides.


  • SpaceMonkey likes this

#13 posaune

posaune

    Pro

  • Super Pro
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 1,045 posts
  • Gender:Female
  • Location:Germany

Posted 31 March 2016 - 06:33 AM

this is only the draft. For cuting you rotate the front pattern so CF is on grain.
As you can imagine the side seams (front versus back) have not the same pattern of stripes. So you will change the side seams too.
lg
posaune
  • SpaceMonkey likes this

#14 tombennett

tombennett

    Apprentice

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 344 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Bristol, UK
  • Interests:Tailoring (especially from the 1960s), Photography, DJing, House-Music, Northern Soul and, Life.

Posted 31 March 2016 - 07:28 PM

Hi Tailleuse, I am having trouble loading the images in your PB, any chance you can post the actual images in the thread.  Having a bit of a belly I am interested in this draft, many thanks m'dear.


Edited by tombennett, 31 March 2016 - 09:57 PM.


#15 tailleuse

tailleuse

    Master

  • Senior Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,059 posts
  • Gender:Not Telling
  • Interests:Tailoring and couture.

Posted 01 April 2016 - 06:05 AM

Hi Tailleuse, I am having trouble loading the images in your PB, any chance you can post the actual images in the thread.  Having a bit of a belly I am interested in this draft, many thanks m'dear.

 

I'd be happy to.

 

Edited to add: I don't have privileges to post in the original thread so I'll create a new thread. The images not be in order, I don't have time to look at them individually and sort them out.  To load them in photobucket I had download the images from my clip service, then upload them again, which a pain in the neck.

 

[See post below.  Hope it helps.]


Edited by tailleuse, 01 April 2016 - 06:24 AM.

Dignity. Always, dignity. (Singin' in the Rain)


#16 tailleuse

tailleuse

    Master

  • Senior Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,059 posts
  • Gender:Not Telling
  • Interests:Tailoring and couture.

Posted 01 April 2016 - 06:23 AM


  • tombennett and Miyabi like this

Dignity. Always, dignity. (Singin' in the Rain)


#17 SpaceMonkey

SpaceMonkey

    Umsie

  • Validating
  • Pip
  • 47 posts
  • Gender:Male

Posted 01 April 2016 - 04:43 PM

 

Is there any other way to do it?

 

David - I noticed the other day that I was able to copy & paste images inline into thread comments. I think that this would result in the images being hosted on the www.cutterandtailor.com server, so that's a method which should ensure that the images are available whenever this site is available. I could be wrong, though.

 

I think that the problem of images disappearing from threads on this site might be the result of people posting links to image hosting sites and then later closing their accounts with that site, or deleting the album where the photos were stored, etc.


Manners Maketh Man.


#18 dpcoffin

dpcoffin

    Apprentice

  • Professional
  • PipPip
  • 310 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Brookings, Oregon, USA

Posted 03 April 2016 - 01:20 PM

 

David - I noticed the other day that I was able to copy & paste images inline into thread comments. I think that this would result in the images being hosted on the www.cutterandtailor.com server, so that's a method which should ensure that the images are available whenever this site is available. I could be wrong, though.

 

I think that the problem of images disappearing from threads on this site might be the result of people posting links to image hosting sites and then later closing their accounts with that site, or deleting the album where the photos were stored, etc.

 

 

 

Thanks, I'll give it a try next time…







Also tagged with one or more of these keywords: shirt, draft, corpulent

0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users