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Draft vs Pattern


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#1 RonD

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Posted 02 October 2019 - 11:04 AM

Hello,

What is the difference between a draft and a pattern.

Yes, I am a beginner.

Ron



#2 Schneiderfrei

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Posted 02 October 2019 - 03:23 PM

A pattern, such as you might buy from Burda, Neue Mode or Folkware etc, is a general shape featuring the fashionable characteristics of a garment, drawn up to suit the greatest number of people who are interested to wear such a garment.  Many people who use such patterns never even question the fit of the resulting garment and it is impossible that it would fit many of those people.

 

A bespoke garment is made to fit the individual who orders it, such as yourself, and through the many years, professional folk have developed what amount to highly adustable algorithms. 

 

The draft is created from the instructions included using the measurements specific to the client and a very close approximation is produced. To turn that into an actual pattern, and fitted garment, requires testing. So, a model or muslin is made in cheap cloth from the draft and cloth is pinned away or added to suit the actual figure of the client. 

 

The best drafts bring the tailor closest to the client's actual figure, but most people vary in some way from the 'ideal'  proportions set out in the draft.  In no case is a draft intended to be the final word in the process.

 

From the final muslin, a final pattern is made, upon which is recorded all the deviations from the draft, for future reference.  You can store and reuse such a pattern, until the client changes shape in the future.

 

Newbie has shown a really great development of a muslin in the recent thread:

 

http://www.cutterand...?showtopic=4774

 

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#3 RonD

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Posted 02 October 2019 - 08:40 PM

OK... so when you see a person being fitted with all that beige looking material that is probably the draft stage.

No wonder  that top notch tailoring is expensive.

BTW, last year I saw a button being sewn by hand from a tailor shop in Saville row.

and I came to the conclusion that tailoring is actually an artform.     just from a button.

Thanks,

Ron


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#4 Claire Shaeffer

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Posted 17 October 2019 - 12:35 AM

Another way to get to a "pattern" is by draping fabric usually muslin on a dress form that duplicates the client's figure. This is usually done in haute couture for women's jackets. 

 

The muslin is fitted on the client's figure and rarely fitted on the client. The first fitting on the client is usually fabric and hand basted. 


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Claire Shaeffer

Author, Couture Sewing Techniques

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www.sewfari.org





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