4 replies to this topic

[ballmouse]

I was skimming a book written about Charles James, the designer. In it it mentions his obsession on the "perfect" sleeve. However, the book is not a tailoring book so it actually doesn't mention what exactly the details are.

 

The only 2 clues are:

1. Extra width across the back (https://imgur.com/V1Qs1kR)
2. Shifting the grain of the sleeve (https://imgur.com/I2NfdnU)

 

Anyone have any idea as to what the 2nd point means? And what other techniques he may have implemented? Just thought this might be an interesting topic.

[lopez]

no idea but i'm fascinated by The Perfect Sleeve, too. i totally get the obsession.

[lopez]

wait... the second clue sounds like a BIAS sleeve, which i'm interested in for making more form-fitting canvas bicycle riding jackets for more reach. i was wondering about WHERE the grain line should originate, though. this 2nd clue above says have grain line in FRONT of arm, which i've heard before but didn't know WHY. i thought grain line on the BACK side would be stronger over time (but inhibit reaching far forward???).

 

i hadn't tested this on models yet to try in the real world so i find your clues fascinating. thank you for your budding obsession.

 

(smile)

[greger]

If the armholes are not in the right place that also is a problem.

[P Art]

I think the hardest thing is to draft a Sleeve after the arm hole is correctly fitted.