Unicut – September 71 pg 67
The Men’s Shirt
Without Seam Allowances
Fig. 67: The Basic Draft for the Classic Shape
Through appropriate seam placement, a fashionable ‘waisted’ form, without back pleats, can also be derived from this draft.
Since the shirt is secured by the trouser waistband, even in sitting, it must be given extra length in the back, at the Rh back height and Tl waist length. This is true, at least partially, even for a woman’s blouse.
Ow Chest width – 51 cm
Collar width 39 cm
Outer sleeve length – 62 cm (from the armhole seam ‘til the wrist)
A. . . . A1 = 1/6 Collar width + 0.5 cm : 7 cm
A. . . . W = 1/3 from A … A1
W. . . . O = back height + 3 cm: 26 cm
W. . . . T = waist length + 3 cm: 48 cm
O. . . . O1 = Rückenbreite + 1 cm: 21.5 cm
A1. . . . A2 = 1 cm
A3 .... S = 1/5 from A3 ... O1 - 1 cm
S .... S1 = 2 cm
R = in the lower quarter, from O1 . . . S1, 1 cm extension from the diagonal line.
O1 ... O2 = ¼ Chest circumference + 1.5 cm
O2 ... A4 = O1 ... A3 - 3 cm
O2 ... O3 = chest width + 1 cm
A … A7 = A . . . A1
A6 … C = A . . . A7 + 1 cm
O2 ... V = 4 cm
O2 … S2 = O1 ... S1 - 2 cm
A7 … S2 = A2 . . . S1
(Calculations for the body measurements: Rb Back height, Tl Waist length, Rb Back width and Bb Chest width are found in: INTERMODE Nr. 7):
The Normal Calculations of the Body Measurements:
Damen Herren Kinder
Tl ¼ Kg – 1 ¼ Kg ¼ Kg – 1
Rh ¼ Tl + ¼ Ow – 1 ¼ Tl + ¼ Ow ½ Tl + 0,5
Rb ¼ Ow + 6,5 ¼ Ow + 8 ¼ Ow + 5
Bb ½ Ow – 3 ½ Ow – 5 ½ Ow – 2
The Length from W is about 80 cm.
O4 = middle of O1 . . . O2. At the waist, remove 2 cm from each side, tapering down to the Length.
Centre Front overlap: 1.75 cm
Separate off (cut off) the shoulder yoke pieces, 3 cm down from each of A7, S2 and S1, 4 cm from W.
Position of the shoulder blade pleat (1 cm: Amount from A1 . . . A2): 1/3 from A2 . . . S1. A 4 cm fold is placed at the same point, below the yoke, and this amount is added to the Centre Back (parallel to the length).
Fig. 68: Yoke and Collar
The yoke (upper left) is made by closing the shoulder blade seams and joining up the separated front and back shoulder parts. Center Back is on the fold, all seams require allowances.
The classic one piece collar (upper right):
a . . . .b = ½ collar width (19,5 cm)
c . . . .b = 5 cm
c . . . d = Front overlap (1.75 cm)
d . . . e = 0.5 cm
a . . . m =1.5 cm
m . . . h =3.5 cm
c . . . f = 3 cm
f . . . .g = 1 cm
f . . . k = 8 cm
k . . . l = 4 cm
h . . . .i = 3.8 cm (with the one piece collar this width may only be a few millimetres more than the collar foot (band) m . . .h).
Fig. 69: The Sleeve
Draw a vertical middle line:
s ... p = Outer arm length minus 7 cm (Cuff width)
s ... o = ½ cap height (cap height = O1 . . . S minus 1/5 of this amount)
s ... o1 = S1 . . . O4 (Fig. 67)
s ... o2 = S2 . . . O4 (Fig. 67)
Between o1 und s: In the first third, hollow by 3/4 cm, in the second third curve out by 1 cm. At the middle of s . . . o2: curve out by 1 3/4 cm.
p . . . p1 = 15 cm
p . . . p2= 15 cm
p2... r = 6 cm
r ... s = 11 cm (cut for slit)
p3. . . p4 = ca. 13 cm (7 cm wide single or double cuff).
Fig. 70: Draft for Waisted Men’s Shirt
Compared with Fig. 67 the following points are changed:
A ... A1 = 2 cm. This amount instead of the back pleat is set as the dart in the waist seam.
W. . . A5 = W . . . O2 + 1/20 Ow (d.h. A5 is about 1/20 of the chest circumference in front of a circular arc drawn with its centre at W from O2. This shoulder position is also employed for other kinds of garments. The amount A7 . . . A5 taken from the waist seam as chest dart. Waist suppression in the front 1 cm in the back 3 cm.
For the time being, this concludes the “UNICUT” course. At the most, it could be supplemented by the technical article on “Der Pelzmantel für Damen und Herren” [The Fur Coat for Women and Men] in Nr. 12/1970, never the less, it does not claim to be complete. The author simply wanted to prove by simple examples that all clothing, be it from men’s shirts to ladies fur coats, can be derived in a simple, logical and safe manner from the same basic plan, thus avoiding time wasting during vocational learning. This is especially important, since the boundaries between men’s and women’s fashions are gradually disappearing (and this is not only in the field of sport and leisure wear). For borderline cases in body shape or fashion line the seamless transition from women’s to men’s clothing is missing. With UNICUT this gap is closed.
Edited by Schneiderfrei, 20 February 2018 - 10:18 AM.